Things to do in Upper Southern Gulf
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Phra Ratchaniwet Mrigadayavan
With a breezy seaside location 10km north of Hua Hin, this summer palace was built during the reign of Rama VI (King Vajiravudh) in 1923 as a health-promoting retreat for the king who suffered from rheumatoid arthritis. The court's Italian architect built the palace to maximise air circulation and admire the sea. The result is a series of interlinked teak houses with tall shuttered windows and patterned fretwork built upon stilts forming a shaded ground-level boardwalk. It is functional and elegant without excessive opulence. Surrounding the palace is a beautiful garden with statuesque trees, some nearing a century old. A traditional Thai orchestra helps transport visitor…
reviewed
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Tham Phraya Nakhon
Tham Phraya Nakhon is probably the most photographed cave in Thailand and can be reached by boat or foot. The boat trip takes about 30 minutes there and back, while it's 30 minutes each way by foot along a steep, rocky 430m trail from Hat Laem Sala. The cave is made up of two large sinkholes, and when the sun shines through in the early morning the effect is truly mystical. In one cave there's a royal săh·lah (often spelt sala; an 'open room' with a roof but no walls).
It was built for King Chulalongkorn, who would stop off here when travelling back and forth between Bangkok and Nakhon Si Thammarat. Check out 'Pagoda Rock', covered with colourful talismans, and 'Crocodi…
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Chatchai Market
The city's day market resides in an historic building built in 1926 with a distinctive seven-eaved roof in honour of Rama VII. There are the usual market refreshments: morning vendors selling Ъah·tôrng·gŏh (Chinese-style doughnuts) and gah·faa boh·rahn (ancient-style coffee spiked with sweetened condensed milk); as well as all-day noodles with freshly made wontons; and the full assortment of fresh tropical fruit.
reviewed
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Fame Restaurant
A farang (foreigner) depot, Fame does a little bit of everything; cooks up Western breakfasts and Thai stir-fries, books ferry tickets and rents out day-use showers. It's open from before the crack of dawn until late at night.
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Chao Lay
Probably the best of the wharf restaurants, this place certainly manages to fill its two levels of pier seating. There's a veritable fish market out front where you can choose your catch of the day, and a small army of waiters to deliver the end product.
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Western Tours
Has tours to surrounding attractions, golf packages (including equipment rentals), hotel bookings, bus tickets and help with local transportation. It's an authorised agent for Thai Airways. There's another branch on Th Amnuaysin.
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Brasserie de Paris
France comes to town with a real French chef cooking up authentic French flavours in a light and airy space with good views of la mer from bistro tables upstairs. Local crab is the standout dish. Reassuringly expensive.
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Rang Yen Garden
This lush garden restaurant is a cosy and friendly spot to feel at home after a day of feeling like a foreigner. It serves up Thai favourites and is only open in the high season.
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Hua Hin Adventure Tour
Hua Hin Adventure Tour offers more somewhat active excursions including kayaking trips in the Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park and mountain biking in Kaeng Krachan National Park.
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Wildlife Friends of Thailand Rescue Centre
Puts volunteers to work caring for sun bears, macaques and gibbons at its animal rescue centre outside of Phetchaburi.
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Phra Ratchawang Ban Peun
Just over 1km south of the city centre, and inside a Thai military base, is the European-influenced Phra Ratchawang Ban Peun. Construction began in 1910 at the behest of Rama V (who died just after the project was started) and was completed in 1916. It was designed by German architects, who used the opportunity to showcase contemporary German innovations in construction and interior design. The structure is typical of the early 20th century, a period that saw a Thai passion for erecting European-style buildings in an effort to keep up with the ‘modern’ architecture of its colonised neighbours. The outside of the two-storey palace is not too exciting, but it’s worth visiti…
reviewed
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Kaeng Krachan
The largest national park in Thailand and home to the gorgeous Nam Tok Pala-U, Kaeng Krachan is easily reached from Phetchaburi. There are caves to explore, mountains, a huge lake and excellent bird-watching opportunities to be had in the evergreen forest that blankets the park. Kaeng Krachan has fantastic trekking, and it is one of the few places to see elephants roaming wild.
To reach the park by car, drive south on Hwy 4 about 20km from Phetchaburi, and at the Kern Pet Junction, turn right and go 38km to Pet Dam, then 3km more to the park headquarters. Alternatively you can arrange a tour in Hua Hin. In Phetchaburi, contact Rabieng Rim Nam Guest House, which arranges d…
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Khao Luang
The main cavern in the cave sanctuary of Khao Luang is lined with impressive stalactites and crammed with old Buddha statues, many of which were put in place by Rama IV. Sunlight from a hole in the chamber ceiling illuminates the images and makes for great photos. To the rear of the main cavern is an entrance to a third, smaller chamber. On the right of the entrance is Wat Bunthawi, with a săh·lah (often spelt sala; meeting hall) designed by the abbot of the wát himself and a bòht (central sanctuary) with impressively carved wooden door panels. Around the cave you’ll meet brazen monkeys looking for handouts. The cave is 4km north of town.
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Wat Kamphaeng Laeng
Back before Siam had defined itself as an independent entity, the Angkor (Khmer) kingdom stretched from present-day Cambodia all the way to the Malay peninsula. To mark their frontier conquests, the Khmers built ornate temples in a signature style that has been copied throughout Thai history. This Khmer remnant is believed to date back to the 12th century and was originally Hindu before the region's conversion to Buddhism. There is one intact sanctuary flanked by two smaller shrines and deteriorating sandstone walls. Though it isn't the most remarkable example of Khmer architecture, it is a peaceful place to snap a few arty pictures.
reviewed
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Phra Nakhon Khiri
Phetburi lives in the shadow of Khao Wang, a looming hill topped by various components of King Mongkut’s 1860 palace, Phra Nakhon Khiri. You can make the strenuous upward climb or head to the west side of the hill and take a funicular straight up to the peak (return adult/child 70/40B). The views from here are fantastic, especially at sunset, and the entire hill teems with meandering monkeys looking for attention. The ticket office will sell you an information pamphlet (5B) that includes a map of the palace grounds.
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Krua Medsai
This fantastic local haunt rarely registers on Cha-am's tourism radar because it sits just north of the beachside burg. Try succulent Ъoo nim (soft-shell crab) and order a bowl of spicy đôm yam gûng (prawn and lemongrass soup) with coconut. To find Krua Medsai, go north along the main ocean road until the rows of accommodation end; you'll pass over a small bridge and a few hundred metres later there's a large blue billboard pointing to the restaurant on the right-hand side of the road.
reviewed
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Wat Ko Kaew Sutharam
From the clock tower on Th Matayawong, look for signs leading to the Ayuthaya-period Wat Ko Kaew Sutharam (Wat Ko). The bòht features early-18th-century murals that are among the best in Thailand. One panel depicts what appears to be a Jesuit priest wearing the robes of a Buddhist monk, while another shows other foreigners undergoing Buddhist conversions. There is also a large wooden monastic hall on stilts - it's similar to the ones at Wat Borom and Wat Trailok but is in much better condition.
reviewed
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Wat Yai Suwannaram
Wat Yai Suwannaram was originally built during the 17th century and renovated during the reign of Rama V (r 1868–1910). Legend has it that the gash in the ornately carved wooden doors of the lengthy wooden săh·lah dates to the Burmese attack on Ayuthaya. The faded murals inside the bòht date back to the 1730s. Next to the bòht, set on a murky pond, is a beautifully designed old hŏr đrai (Tripitaka library), though these days it’s home only to pigeons.
reviewed
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Kaeng Krachan National Park
At 3000 sq km, Thailand’s largest national park is home to the stunning Pa La-U waterfalls, and includes long-distance hiking trails that snake through forests and savannah-like grasslands, past cliffs, caves and mountains. Two rivers, Mae Nam Phetchaburi and Mae Nam Pranburi, a large lake and abundant rainfall keep the place green year-round. Animal life includes wild elephants, deer, tigers, bears, gibbons, boars, hornbills, dusky langurs, gaurs, wild cattle and 400 species of birds.
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Khao Luang
About 4km north of town is the cave sanctuary Khao Luang, which has three caverns filled with dozens of Buddha images in various poses – some of them originally placed by Rama IV – and several souvenir stalls. The best time to visit Khao Luang is around 5pm, when the school groups should have gone and the evening light pierces the ceiling, surrounding artefacts below with an ethereal glow. A săhm·lór from town costs about 80B return; a motorcycle taxi is 70B.
reviewed
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Grand Plaza
On Wednesdays and Fridays Moo·ay tai (also spelt muay thai; Thai boxing) matches take place at 9pm, at the Grand Plaza. The Grand Plaza’s gym (www.huahingrandsport.com; admission 180B, moo·ay tai lessons 300B; [hrs] 9am-9pm)has a sauna, yoga instruction and coffee/protein-shake bar, and is a good place to burn off last night’s Singha beers in authentic Thai style. See the website for information on other sporting activities offered.
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Khao Luang
The cave sanctuary of Khao Luang is 5km north of Phetchaburi. The caverns here are filled with ageing Buddha images in various stances, many of them originally placed by King Rama IV. The best time to visit is around 17:00, when evening light pierces the ceiling, surrounding artefacts below with an ethereal glow. There are multiple chambers to wander through, which feature easily anthropomorphised rock formations, and showers of stalactites.
reviewed
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Tham Kaew
Not a popular daytrippers' stop, Tham Kaew is a series of underground chambers and narrow passageways accessed by a steep scramble 128m up the mountain. Stalactites and limestone formations here glitter with calcite crystals (hence the cave's name, 'Jewel Cave') are plentiful. You can hire lamps from the booth at the footpath's entrance, and exercise caution as the path can be slippery and dangerous.
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Wat Ko Kaew Sutharam
Wat Ko Kaew Sutharam dates back to the Ayuthaya era, and the bòht features early 18th-century murals that are among the oldest and the most beautiful in Thailand. One panel depicts what appears to be a Jesuit priest wearing the robes of a Buddhist monk, while another shows other foreigners undergoing Buddhist conversions. You might have to ask the caretaker to open it for you.
reviewed
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Khaao Chae Naang Ram
Khaao Chae Naang RamKôw châa (camphor-scented chilled rice served with sweet/savoury titbits) is a dish associated with Phetburi, and this roadside stall in front of a noodle restaurant is considered one of the best places to try it (it’s an odd flavour and icy texture, but worth a go). There’s no English sign; look for the cart under the old blue awning).
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