Cave sights in Upper Southern Gulf
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Tham Phraya Nakhon
Tham Phraya Nakhon is probably the most photographed cave in Thailand and can be reached by boat or foot. The boat trip takes about 30 minutes there and back, while it's 30 minutes each way by foot along a steep, rocky 430m trail from Hat Laem Sala. The cave is made up of two large sinkholes, and when the sun shines through in the early morning the effect is truly mystical. In one cave there's a royal săh·lah (often spelt sala; an 'open room' with a roof but no walls).
It was built for King Chulalongkorn, who would stop off here when travelling back and forth between Bangkok and Nakhon Si Thammarat. Check out 'Pagoda Rock', covered with colourful talismans, and…
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Khao Luang
The cave sanctuary of Khao Luang is 5km north of Phetchaburi. The caverns here are filled with ageing Buddha images in various stances, many of them originally placed by King Rama IV. The best time to visit is around 17:00, when evening light pierces the ceiling, surrounding artefacts below with an ethereal glow. There are multiple chambers to wander through, which feature easily anthropomorphised rock formations, and showers of stalactites.
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Tham Kaew
Not a popular daytrippers' stop, Tham Kaew is a series of underground chambers and narrow passageways accessed by a steep scramble 128m up the mountain. Stalactites and limestone formations here glitter with calcite crystals (hence the cave's name, 'Jewel Cave') are plentiful. You can hire lamps from the booth at the footpath's entrance, and exercise caution as the path can be slippery and dangerous.
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Tham Sai
This cave sits at the end of a 280m hillside trail and features a large single cavern filled with stalactites and stalagmites. Be careful of steep drop-offs inside and slippery footings. Usually only the more adventurous types undertake this one. Villagers rent out lamps near the cave mouth. It is just north of Hat Sam Phraya.
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Khao Bandai-It
A magical cave sanctuary 2km west of town. A monastery sits regally on the hill, while several large caverns pock the hillside. English-speaking guides lead tours through the caves.
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Tham Phraya Nakhon & Hat Laem Sala
The park's most popular attraction is this revered cave sheltering a royal săh·lah (often spelt sala; meeting hall) built for Rama V in 1890 that is often bathed in streams of light.
The cave is accessed by a walking trail from picturesque Hat Laem Sala, a sandy beach flanked on three sides by limestone hills and casuarinas. The beach hosts a small visitors centre, restaurant, bungalows and camp sites. The cave trail is 450m long and is steep, rocky and at times slick so don't wear your ballet flats. Once there you'll find two large caverns with sinkholes – the meeting hall is the second of the two.
Reaching Laem Sala requires alternative travel since there is no road…
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Tham Khao Luang
About 4km north of town is Tham Khao Luang, a dramatic stalactite-filled chamber that is one of Thailand's most impressive cave shrines and a favourite of Rama IV. The cave is accessed through a steep set of stairs. It's central Buddha figure is often illuminated with a heavenly glow when sunlight filters in through the heart-shaped skylight. On the opposite end of the chamber is a row of sitting Buddhas casting repetitive shadows on the undulating cavern wall.
According to the guides, Rama IV built the stone gate that separates the main chamber from a second chamber as a security measure for a couple who once lived in the cave. A figure of a prostrate body in the third…
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Tham Khao Bandai-It
This hillside monastery, 2km west of town, sprawls through several large caverns converted into simple Buddha shrines and hermit meditation rooms. English-speaking guides (tip appreciated) lead tours through the caves, mainly as a safety precaution from the monkeys. One cavern contains a significant population of bats, and guides will instruct you not to look up with your mouth open (a good rule for everyday life).
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