Sights in Phetchaburi Province
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Phra Ratchawang Ban Peun
Just over 1km south of the city centre, and inside a Thai military base, is the European-influenced Phra Ratchawang Ban Peun. Construction began in 1910 at the behest of Rama V (who died just after the project was started) and was completed in 1916. It was designed by German architects, who used the opportunity to showcase contemporary German innovations in construction and interior design. The structure is typical of the early 20th century, a period that saw a Thai passion for erecting European-style buildings in an effort to keep up with the ‘modern’ architecture of its colonised neighbours. The outside of the two-storey palace is not too exciting, but it’s worth visiti…
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Kaeng Krachan
The largest national park in Thailand and home to the gorgeous Nam Tok Pala-U, Kaeng Krachan is easily reached from Phetchaburi. There are caves to explore, mountains, a huge lake and excellent bird-watching opportunities to be had in the evergreen forest that blankets the park. Kaeng Krachan has fantastic trekking, and it is one of the few places to see elephants roaming wild.
To reach the park by car, drive south on Hwy 4 about 20km from Phetchaburi, and at the Kern Pet Junction, turn right and go 38km to Pet Dam, then 3km more to the park headquarters. Alternatively you can arrange a tour in Hua Hin. In Phetchaburi, contact Rabieng Rim Nam Guest House, which arranges d…
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Khao Luang
The main cavern in the cave sanctuary of Khao Luang is lined with impressive stalactites and crammed with old Buddha statues, many of which were put in place by Rama IV. Sunlight from a hole in the chamber ceiling illuminates the images and makes for great photos. To the rear of the main cavern is an entrance to a third, smaller chamber. On the right of the entrance is Wat Bunthawi, with a săh·lah (often spelt sala; meeting hall) designed by the abbot of the wát himself and a bòht (central sanctuary) with impressively carved wooden door panels. Around the cave you’ll meet brazen monkeys looking for handouts. The cave is 4km north of town.
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Wat Kamphaeng Laeng
Back before Siam had defined itself as an independent entity, the Angkor (Khmer) kingdom stretched from present-day Cambodia all the way to the Malay peninsula. To mark their frontier conquests, the Khmers built ornate temples in a signature style that has been copied throughout Thai history. This Khmer remnant is believed to date back to the 12th century and was originally Hindu before the region's conversion to Buddhism. There is one intact sanctuary flanked by two smaller shrines and deteriorating sandstone walls. Though it isn't the most remarkable example of Khmer architecture, it is a peaceful place to snap a few arty pictures.
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Phra Nakhon Khiri
Phetburi lives in the shadow of Khao Wang, a looming hill topped by various components of King Mongkut’s 1860 palace, Phra Nakhon Khiri. You can make the strenuous upward climb or head to the west side of the hill and take a funicular straight up to the peak (return adult/child 70/40B). The views from here are fantastic, especially at sunset, and the entire hill teems with meandering monkeys looking for attention. The ticket office will sell you an information pamphlet (5B) that includes a map of the palace grounds.
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Wat Ko Kaew Sutharam
From the clock tower on Th Matayawong, look for signs leading to the Ayuthaya-period Wat Ko Kaew Sutharam (Wat Ko). The bòht features early-18th-century murals that are among the best in Thailand. One panel depicts what appears to be a Jesuit priest wearing the robes of a Buddhist monk, while another shows other foreigners undergoing Buddhist conversions. There is also a large wooden monastic hall on stilts - it's similar to the ones at Wat Borom and Wat Trailok but is in much better condition.
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Wat Yai Suwannaram
Wat Yai Suwannaram was originally built during the 17th century and renovated during the reign of Rama V (r 1868–1910). Legend has it that the gash in the ornately carved wooden doors of the lengthy wooden săh·lah dates to the Burmese attack on Ayuthaya. The faded murals inside the bòht date back to the 1730s. Next to the bòht, set on a murky pond, is a beautifully designed old hŏr đrai (Tripitaka library), though these days it’s home only to pigeons.
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Kaeng Krachan National Park
At 3000 sq km, Thailand’s largest national park is home to the stunning Pa La-U waterfalls, and includes long-distance hiking trails that snake through forests and savannah-like grasslands, past cliffs, caves and mountains. Two rivers, Mae Nam Phetchaburi and Mae Nam Pranburi, a large lake and abundant rainfall keep the place green year-round. Animal life includes wild elephants, deer, tigers, bears, gibbons, boars, hornbills, dusky langurs, gaurs, wild cattle and 400 species of birds.
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Khao Luang
About 4km north of town is the cave sanctuary Khao Luang, which has three caverns filled with dozens of Buddha images in various poses – some of them originally placed by Rama IV – and several souvenir stalls. The best time to visit Khao Luang is around 5pm, when the school groups should have gone and the evening light pierces the ceiling, surrounding artefacts below with an ethereal glow. A săhm·lór from town costs about 80B return; a motorcycle taxi is 70B.
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Khao Luang
The cave sanctuary of Khao Luang is 5km north of Phetchaburi. The caverns here are filled with ageing Buddha images in various stances, many of them originally placed by King Rama IV. The best time to visit is around 17:00, when evening light pierces the ceiling, surrounding artefacts below with an ethereal glow. There are multiple chambers to wander through, which feature easily anthropomorphised rock formations, and showers of stalactites.
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Wat Ko Kaew Sutharam
Wat Ko Kaew Sutharam dates back to the Ayuthaya era, and the bòht features early 18th-century murals that are among the oldest and the most beautiful in Thailand. One panel depicts what appears to be a Jesuit priest wearing the robes of a Buddhist monk, while another shows other foreigners undergoing Buddhist conversions. You might have to ask the caretaker to open it for you.
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Phra Ratchaniwet Marukhathayawan
Midway between Cha-am and Hua Hin is Phra Ratchaniwet Marukhathayawan, a summer palace built during the reign of Rama VI. The one- and two-storey buildings are constructed of teak and interlinked by covered boardwalks, all high above the ground on stilts. Incorporating high tiled roofs and tall shuttered windows, the design maximises air circulation.
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Phra Nakhon Khiri
The palace area on the top, is a national historical park and a good spot to take in views of the town while curious monkeys look at you (and make plays for your beverage or purse). The walk up is fairly strenuous, especially in the heat. A tram is the easier way.
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Wat Borom
Next to Wat Trailok and opposite Wat Yai Suwannaram on Th Phongsuriya, a little to the east. It's not especially attractive, but does have distinctive monastic halls and long, graceful wooden 'dormitories' on stilts.
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Wat Trailok
Next to Wat Borom and opposite Wat Yai Suwannaram on Th Phongsuriya, a little to the east. It's not especially attractive, but does have distinctive monastic halls and long, graceful wooden 'dormitories' on stilts.
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Wat Neranchararama
The beautiful Wat Neranchararama features an unusual six-armed Buddha statue. Each hand covers a sensory organ in a symbolic gesture denying the senses - kinda like 'see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil'.
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Wat Mahathat
The large white Ъrahng of this wát can be seen from a distance - a typical late Ayuthaya-early Ratanakosin adaptation of the Ъrahng of Lopburi and Phimai.
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Khao Bandai-It
A magical cave sanctuary 2km west of town. A monastery sits regally on the hill, while several large caverns pock the hillside. English-speaking guides lead tours through the caves.
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Wat Mahathat Worawihan
Centrally located, gleaming white Wat Mahathat is a lovely example of an everyday temple with as much hustle and bustle as the busy commercial district around it. The showpiece is a five-tiered Khmer-style prang (Khmer-style stupa) decorated in stucco relief, a speciality of Phetchaburi's local artisans. Inside the main wí·hăhn (shrine hall or sanctuary) are contemporary murals, another example of the province's thriving temple craftsmanship. The tempo of the temple is further heightened with the steady beat from traditional musicians and dancers who perform for merit-making services.
After visiting the temple, follow Th Suwanmunee through the old teak house district fi…
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Tham Khao Luang
About 4km north of town is Tham Khao Luang, a dramatic stalactite-filled chamber that is one of Thailand's most impressive cave shrines and a favourite of Rama IV. The cave is accessed through a steep set of stairs. It's central Buddha figure is often illuminated with a heavenly glow when sunlight filters in through the heart-shaped skylight. On the opposite end of the chamber is a row of sitting Buddhas casting repetitive shadows on the undulating cavern wall.
According to the guides, Rama IV built the stone gate that separates the main chamber from a second chamber as a security measure for a couple who once lived in the cave. A figure of a prostrate body in the third ch…
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Tham Khao Bandai-It
This hillside monastery, 2km west of town, sprawls through several large caverns converted into simple Buddha shrines and hermit meditation rooms. English-speaking guides (tip appreciated) lead tours through the caves, mainly as a safety precaution from the monkeys. One cavern contains a significant population of bats, and guides will instruct you not to look up with your mouth open (a good rule for everyday life).
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Phra Ram Ratchaniwet
An incredible art deco creation 1km south of town, construction of this royal summer palace began in 1910 at the behest of Rama V (who died just after the project was started). It was designed by German architects, who used the opportunity to showcase contemporary innovations in construction and interior design. The structure is typical of the early 20th century, a period that saw a Thai passion for erecting European-style buildings in an effort to keep up with the 'modern' architecture of its colonised neighbours.
The outside of the two-storey palace is not too exciting, but inside there are spacious sun-drenched rooms decorated with exquisite glazed tiles, stained glass,…
reviewed
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Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park
This national historical park sits regally atop Khao Wang (Palace Hill) surveying the city with subdued opulence. Rama IV (King Mongkut) built the palace and surrounding temples in 1859 to be used as a retreat from Bangkok. The hilltop location allowed the king to pursue his interest in astronomy and stargazing.
The palace was built in a mix of European and Chinese styles and each breezy hall is furnished with royal belongings. Cobblestone paths lead from the palace through the forested hill to three summits, each topped by a chedi. The white spire of Phra That Chom Phet skewers the sky and can be spotted from the city below.
There are two entrances to the site. The front e…
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Hat Puak Tian
Locals come to this dark-sands beach, 20km southeast of Phetchaburi, on weekends to eat seafood and frolic in the surf. Another modest attraction is the literary role this beach played in the Thai epic poem Phra Aphaimani, written by Sunthorn Phu. A partially submerged statue of a giant woman standing offshore with an outstretched hand and a forlorn expression depicts a character from the poem who disguised herself as a beautiful temptress to win the love of the hero and imprison him on this beach. But he discovers her treachery (and her true ugliness) and with the help of a mermaid escapes to Ko Samet (a nicer beach so maybe he was on to something).
You'll need private tr…
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