Things to do in Ubon Ratchathani
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Ubon Ratchathani National Museum
Occupying the former city hall, this is a very informative museum with plenty on show, from Dvaravati-era Buddhist ordination-precinct stones and a 2500-year-old Dong Son bronze drum to Ubon textiles and betel-nut sets. The museum's most prized possession is a 9th-century Ardhanarisvara, a composite statue combining Shiva and his consort Uma into one being; one of just two ever found in Thailand.
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Wat Nong Pa Phong
Peaceful Wat Nong Pa Phong is known for its quiet discipline and daily routine of work and meditation. Dozens of Westerners have lived here over recent decades, and several still do. The wát features the golden chedi where Luang Pu Cha’s relics are interred and a three-storey museum displaying an odd assortment of items, from Luang Pu Ajahn Cha’s worldly possessions to world currencies to a foetus in a jar. The temple is about 10km past the river. Sŏrng·tăa·ou 3 gets you within 2km; a motorcycle taxi (if one is available) should cost 20B.
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Wat Thung Si Meuang
Wat Thung Si Meuang was built during the reign of Rama III (1824–51) and has a classic hŏr đrai (Tripitaka hall) in excellent shape. Like many hŏr đrai, it rests on tall, angled stilts in the middle of a pond to protect the precious scriptures (written on palm-leaf paper) from termites. It's kept open so you can look around inside. The 200-year-old murals in the little bòht beside the hŏr đrai show life in that era.
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Wat Ban Na Meuang
Wat Sa Prasan Suk, as it's also known, stands out from other temples in many ways. Most famously, the bòht sits on a boat: a ceramic-encrusted replica of King Rama IX's royal barge Suphannahong, complete with a sculpted crew. The wí·hăhn also has a boat-shaped base, this one resembling the second-most important royal barge, Anantanagaraj; and it's surrounded by an actual pond. These were not just artistic endeavours: the water represents our desires and the boats represent staying above them.
The commissioner of these creations, Luang Pu Boon Mi, died in 2001 and his body is on display (they're waiting to finish building a museum before cremating him) in the săh·lah …
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Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram
The bòht at this important temple resembles Bangkok's Wat Benchamabophit, but it's the 7cm-tall topaz Buddha inside that most visitors come to see. Phra Kaew Butsarakham, as it's known, was reportedly brought here from Vientiane at Ubon's founding and is one of the city's holiest possessions. It sits behind glass high up the back wall, all but out of sight; bring binoculars if you have them. The image directly in front of the largest Buddha is a copy.
The temple has turned a beautiful old wooden săh·lah into a museum of religious items. The highlight is the collection of 18th-century đoô prá đraiЪìdòk, gorgeous boxes used for storing sacred palm-leaf texts. If yo…
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Wat Pa Nanachat
Wat Pa Nanachat is a Western-oriented wát, opened in 1975 specifically for non-Thais, and English is the primary language. Those with previous meditation experience are welcome to apply (write to the Guest Monk, Wat Pa Nanachat, Ban Bung Wai, Amphoe Warin Chamrap, Ubon Ratchathani 34310) to stay here. Guests must follow all temple rules including eating just one meal a day, rising at 3am and shaving heads and eyebrows.
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Wat Phra That Nong Bua
The richly adorned 55m chedi at this temple loosely resembles the Mahabodhi stupa in Bodhgaya, India. It's the only square stupa in Ubon Province unless you count the older one it was built over (you can enter to see the original between 8am and 6pm) or the four similar but smaller ones at the corners. Some of the jataka reliefs covering its exterior are quite expressive and two groups of four niches on each side of the chedi contain Buddhas standing in stylised Gupta or Dvaravati closed-robe poses. The temple is on the outskirts of town; to get there, take sŏrng·tăa·ou 10.
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Wat Supatanaram
Called Wat Supat for short, the unique bòht at this riverside temple, built between 1920 and 1936, features a Thai roof, European arches and a Khmer base. And, in contrast to other temple structures of the region, it's made entirely of stone. In front is a wooden bell, reputed to be the largest in the world.
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Porntip
It looks like a tornado whipped through this no-frills spot, but the chefs cook up a storm of their own. This relocated restaurant, formerly Gai Yang Wat Jaeng, is considered by many to be Ubon’s premier purveyor of gài yâhng, sôm·đam, sausages and other Isan food.
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Krua Ruen Pae
One of several floating restaurants on the Mae Nam Mun, Krua Ruen Pae serves up tasty Thai and Isan food and a relaxed atmosphere. The đôm kàh gài (chicken with galangal in coconut milk) is lovely. If driving here, exit to the west and then go under the bridge.
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U-Bar
While other clubs have come and gone over the years, U-Bar has long remained at the top of the heap for the college crowd, partly because the best bands from Bangkok often play here when they visit Ubon. If you go, try a Blue Kamikaze, served out of a sinister-looking slushy machine behind the bar.
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Chiokee
A steady stream of old-timers linger over congee, tea and newspapers at this classic spot to have breakfast.
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Golden Jubilee Art & Cultural Centre
There is a museum in the lower level of this striking contemporary Isan-design tower at Rajabhat University. There are some interesting cultural displays, particularly of houses and handicrafts. There’s also a whole lot of wax sculpture.
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Jumpa-Hom
One of the loveliest and most delicious restaurants in Isan, Jumpa-Hom has a very broad set of choices including some not-so-common dishes. You can dine on a water-and-plant-filled wooden deck or in the air-con dining room, which offers a choice of tables and chairs or cushions for floor seating.
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Bismila Ali
This little hole in the wall serves both Indian and Thai-Muslim (try the ‘fish three taste’: red tilapia cooked in chilli sauce) food. Unless you just snatch a roti from the cart out front, your food won’t come fast but it’ll be done right.
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Wat Jaeng
Found436around the same time as the city, Wat Jaeng has an adorable Lan Xang–style bòht (built in 1887) with large naga eave brackets on the sides, crocodiles on the railings and Airavata along with two mythical lions atop the carved wooden facade. A travelling market fills up the wàt grounds every Wednesday.
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Risotto
The dining room can't quite pull off an Italian vibe, but the kitchen offers a dash of la dolce vita. The menu has a full roster of pasta, plus salmon steak and one of the best pizzas in Isan.
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Boon Niyon Uthayan
Run by the ascetic Santi Asoke group, which has split from mainstream Thai Buddhism, this restaurant has an impressive vegetarian buffet under a giant roof. Most of the food is grown organically just outside the city.
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Rawang Thang
There's also Ubon cotton at this shop, which sells fun and funky T-shirts, pillows, postcards, picture frames and assorted bric-a-brac, most made or designed by the friendly husband-and-wife owners. They can fill you in on all things Ubon.
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Pakse
More of a pub than a club, only with very loud music, this large place has oodles of cosy character, a pool table and a full menu. It’s not flashy, just cool.
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Punchard
Though pricey, this is the best all-round handicrafts shop in Ubon. The Th Ratchabut branch is mostly home decor.
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Camp Fai Ubon
You’ll find a fantastic assortment of clothing, bags and fabric at Camp Fai Ubon, which is signed as Peaceland.
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E-Bar
A new club with glitz and dancing. Their special promotions and regular visits from Bangkok bands have made it very popular.
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Maybe
Maybe is a good clothing shop with reasonable prices, though it features less natural-dyed fabric.
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Grass-Root
Grass-Root is a small but good shop for an assortment of clothing, bags and fabric
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