Sights in Tak Province
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Taksin Maharat National Park
Taksin Maharat National Park covers 149 sq km; the entrance is 2km from the Km26 marker on Rte 105. The most outstanding features here are the 30m, nine-tiered waterfall Nam Tok Mae Ya Pa and a record-holding đà·bàhk, a dipterocarp that is 50m tall, 16m in circumference and 700 years old. Birdwatching is said to be particularly good here; known resident and migratory species include tiger shrikes, forest wagtails and Chinese pond herons. This park offers utilitarian rooms that sleep between four and 10 people and a camping ground. Food service can be arranged here.
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Um Phang Wildlife Sanctuary
The Nam Tok Thilawsu falls are near the headquarters of the Um Phang Wildlife Sanctuary, which is about 50km from Um Phang, towards Sangkhlaburi in Kanchanaburi Province. The 2km path between the headquarters and falls has been transformed into a self-guided nature tour, with the addition of well-conceived educational plaques. Surrounding the falls on both sides of the river are Thailand's thickest stands of natural forest, and the hiking in the vicinity of Nam Tok Thilawsu can be superb. The forest here is said to contain more than 1300 varieties of palm; giant bamboo and strangler figs are also commonplace.
The wildlife sanctuary links with the Thung Yai Naresuan Nationa…
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Lan Sang National Park
Nineteen kilometres before Tak, Lan Sang National Park preserves a 104-sq-km area of rugged, 1000m-high granite peaks – part of the Tenasserim Range. A network of trails leads to several waterfalls, including the park’s 40m-high namesake. Lan Sang National Park rents rustic bungalows that can accommodate two to 32 people. Two-person tents are also available. Food service can be arranged in this park.
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Doi Muser Hilltribe Cultural Center
At the top of the mountain on the road to Tak is this research and cultural centre where you can visit for the day, or spend the night. Here they grow and sell crops such as tea, coffee, fruits and flowers. Call ahead to find out about seeing a cultural performance. The temperature can go as low as 4°C in the winter. During November and December, boo·a torng (a kind of wild sunflower) blossom around the centre.
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Sangkhalok Museum
This small but comprehensive museum is an excellent introduction to ancient Sukhothai’s most famous product and export, its ceramics. It displays an impressive collection of original 700-year-old Thai pottery found in the area, plus some pieces traded from Vietnam, Burma and China. The 2nd floor features examples of non-utilitarian pottery made as art, including some beautiful and rare ceramic Buddha statues.
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Tham Ta Khu Bi
From Ban Mae Klong Mai, just a few kilometres north of Um Phang via the highway to Mae Sot, Rte 1167 heads southwest along the Thai–Myanmar border. Along the way is the extensive cave system of Tham Ta Khu Bi, which in Karen allegedly means 'Flat Mango'. There are no guides here, so be sure to bring your own torch.
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Poeng Kloeng
After 12km, turn left onto Rte 1288, which leads to the checkpoint for Um Phang Wildlife Sanctuary. Past this point the road deteriorates in quality, yet continues more than 70km, terminating in Poeng Kloeng – a Karen, Burmese, Indo-Burmese, Talaku and Thai trading village where buffalo carts are more common than motorcycles. The picturesque setting among spiky peaks and cliffs is worth the trip even if you go no further. From the sŏrng·tăa·ou station in Um Phang there are sŏrng·tăa·ou to Poeng Kloeng (100B, 2½ hours, every hour 6.30am to 3.30pm).
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Nam Tok Thilawsu
This waterfall is Thailand's largest, measuring an estimated 200m high and up to 400m wide during the rainy season. Thais, particularly fanatical about such things, consider Nam Tok Thilawsu to be the most beautiful waterfall in the country. There's a shallow cave behind the falls and several levels of pools suitable for swimming. The best time to visit is after the rainy season (November and December) when the 200m to 400m limestone cliffs alongside the Mae Nam Klong are streaming with water and Nam Tok Thilawsu is at its best.
The vast majority of people visit the falls as part of an organised tour, but it's also possible to go independently. If you've got your own wheel…
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Letongkhu & Sangkhlaburi
Roughly 12km south of Poeng Kloeng along a rough track (passable by 4WD in the dry season), near the Myanmar border on the banks of Mae Nam Suriya next to Sam Rom mountain, is the village of Letongkhu. According to what little anthropological information is available, the villagers, although for the most part Karen in language, belong to the Lagu or Talaku sect, said to represent a form of Buddhism mixed with shamanism and animism. Letongkhu is one of only six such villages in Thailand; there are reportedly around 30 more in Myanmar. Each village has a spiritual and temporal leader called a pu chaik (whom the Thais call reu·sěe – 'rishi', or 'sage') who wears his hair…
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Border Market & Myawadi Market
There is an expansive covered market alongside the Mae Nam Moei on the Thai side that legally sells a mixture of workaday Burmese goods and cheap Chinese electronics.
However, the real reason most come here is to cross to Myawadi in Myanmar (Burma) – when the border is open. Sŏrng·tăa·ou frequently go to the border (20B, frequent departures from 6.30am to 5.30pm), 5km west of Mae Sot: ask for Rim Moei (Edge of the Moei). The last sŏrng·tăa·ou going back to Mae Sot leaves Rim Moei at 5.30pm.
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