Things to do in Phrae
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Vongburi House
The two-storey teak house of the last prince of Phrae has been converted into a private museum. It was constructed between 1897 and 1907 for Luang Phongphibun and his wife Chao Sunantha, who once held a profitable teak concession in the city. Elaborate carvings on gables, eaves, balconies and above doors and windows are in good condition. Inside, many of the house's 20 rooms display late-19th-century teak antiques, documents (including early-20th-century slave concessions), photos and other artefacts from the bygone teak-dynasty era. Most are labelled in English as well as Thai.
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Pratubjai House
On the outskirts of the town is Pratubjai House, a large northern Thai–style teak house that was built using more than 130 teak logs, each over 300 years old. Opened in 1985, the house took four years to build, using timber taken from nine old rural houses. The interior pillars are ornately carved. The house is also filled with souvenir vendors and is rather tackily decorated, so don’t take the moniker ‘impressive’ too seriously.
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Pan Jai
This open-air place combines everything we like in a restaurant; delicious local eats, attractive setting, good service and low prices. The emphasis is on kà·nŏm jeen, fresh rice noodles served with various curries and herbs, but there are a couple of different kinds of noodle soups, a variety of rice dishes and more. Everything's on display, so simply point to whatever looks tastiest.
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Maw Hawm Anian
A good place to buy môr hôrm in town, about 60m from the southeastern gate (Pratu Chai) into the old city.
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Sod Cheon
On the crossroads, 50m north of the Maeyom Palace Hotel, is this simple but very popular Chinese/Thai restaurant. Choose from the big pots of Chinese-style soups or go for your usual Thai dishes. Good for late-night eats.
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Kham Pan Koey
This recently refurbished shophouse across from Pratu Chai serves a bit of everything, from sôm·đam to rice and noodle dishes. Ice cream and an arsenal of drinks are also there to help beat the heat.
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Ban Nai Suan
During the day, this ‘house in the garden’ serves up a short menu of local dishes. At night, the venue changes to Route Beat, and a Thai menu is served to the sounds of live music.
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Wat Phra Non
Located west of Wat Luang is a 300-year-old wát named after its highly revered reclining prá norn (reclining Buddha image). The bòht (central sanctuary) was built around 200 years ago and has an impressive roof with a separate, two-tiered portico and gilded, carved, wooden facade with Ramayana scenes. The wí·hăhn behind the bòht contains the Buddha image, swathed in Thai Lü cloth with bead and foil decoration.
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Wat Phra Baht Ming Meuang
Across from the post office within the old city, Wat Phra Baht Ming Meuang combines two formerly separate temple compounds (one of which contains a museum that is sporadically open), a Buddhist school, an old chedi, an unusual octagonal drum tower made entirely of teak and the highly revered Phra Kosai, which closely resembles the Phra Chinnarat in Phitsanulok.
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Wat Luang
This is the oldest wát in Phrae, probably dating from the founding of the city in the 12th or 13th century. Phra That Luang Chang Kham, the large octagonal Lanna-style chedi, sits on a square base with elephants supporting it on all four sides. As is sometimes seen in Phrae and Nan, the chedi is occasionally swathed in Thai Lü fabric.
The verandah of the main wí·hăhn is in the classic Luang Prabang-Lan Xang style but has unfortunately been bricked in with laterite. Opposite the front of the wí·hăhn is Pratu Khong, part of the city's original entrance gate. No longer used as a gate, it now contains a statue of Chao Pu, an early Lanna ruler.
Also on the temple grounds…
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Wat Jom Sawan
Outside the old city on Th Ban Mai, this Buddhist temple was built by local Shan in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and shows Shan and Burmese influences throughout. An adjacent copper-crowned chedi has lost most of its stucco to reveal the artful brickwork beneath. Since a recent renovation, Wat Jom Sawan is more of a museum piece than a functioning temple.
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Phrae Adventure
Wa and his team lead a variety of trekking expeditions, ranging from one to seven days in Phrae's Mae Yom National Park, as well as rafting trips in Nan.
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Loving Hut
At the entrance to the old town, this bright yellow place has a thick English-language menu of Thai-style veggie dishes.
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Khao Soi Nok Noy
Just kôw soy – served with chicken, beef or pork – is served in this garden restaurant.
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Baan Pratubjai
On the outskirts of the town is Baan Pratubjai (Impressive House), a large northern Thai-style teak house that was built using more than 130 teak logs, each over 300 years old. Opened in 1985, the house took four years to build, using timber taken from nine old rural houses. The interior pillars are ornately carved. The house is also filled with souvenir vendors and is rather tackily decorated, so don't take the moniker 'impressive' too seriously.
Pratubjai House is somewhat difficult to find; your best bet is to exit at the west gate of the former city wall and follow the signs, turning right after the school. A săhm·lór here should cost about 60B.
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