Things to do in Nong Khai Province
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Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park
One of Thailand’s most enigmatic attractions, Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park is a surreal, sculptural journey into the mind of a mystic shaman. Built over a period of 20 years by Luang Pu Boun Leua Sourirat, who died in 1996, the park features a weird and wonderful array of gigantic sculptures ablaze with Hindu-Buddhist imagery.
To get to Sala Kaew Ku, board a bus heading to Phon Phisai or any other eastern destination and ask to get off at Wat Khaek (10B), as the park is also known; it’s about a fiveminute walk from the highway. Chartered túk-túk cost 150B return with a one-hour wait – don’t pay up front, or it may turn into a oneway fare. Or you can reach it by bike in a…
reviewed
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Wat Phu Tok
Accessed via a network of rickety staircases built in, on and around a giant sandstone outcrop, Wat Phu Tok is one of the region’s true wonders. Six levels of steps lead past shrines and gù·đì that are scattered around the mountain, in caves and on cliffs. A 7th-level scramble up roots and rocks takes you to the forest at the summit, with fabulous views over the surrounding countryside and a truly soporific atmosphere. It’s the cool and quiet isolation of this wát that entices monks and mâa chee from all over Thailand to come and meditate here; many of them do so on the summit, so be quiet and respectful up there. The route up the mountain symbolises that the pa…
reviewed
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Wat Hin Mak Peng
Overlooking a lovely stretch of the Mekong, this vast forest temple is centred on a cliff rising out of the river. The very peaceful temple is highly respected because of the Thai people's continuing reverence for the founding abbot, Luang Pu Thet, who they believe reached enlightenment. Several monuments in his honour, including a glistening chedi housing his few earthly possessions and a lifelike wax statue, are found around the grounds. Visitors must dress politely: no shorts above the knees or sleeveless tops.
The temple is midway between Si Chiangmai and Sangkhom. Sangkhom-bound buses from Nong Khai (50B, 2¼ hours) pass the entrance, and then it's a longish walk to th…
reviewed
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Wat Pho Chai
Luang Po Phra Sai, a large Lan Xang–era Buddha image awash with gold, bronze and precious stones, sits at the hub of Nong Khai's holiest temple. The head of the image is pure gold, the body is bronze and the ùt·sà·nít (flame-shaped head ornament) is set with rubies. Due to a great number of dubious miracles people attribute to it, this royal temple is a mandatory stop for most visiting Thais.
Luang Po Phra Sai was one of three similar statues made for each of the daughters of Lao King Setthathirat, and they were taken as bounty after King Rama I sacked Vientiane in 1778. The murals in the bòht depict their travels from the interior of Laos to the banks of the Mekon…
reviewed
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Wat Pa Tak Sua
The forest wát peering down on the town from the eastern hills, Wat Pa Tak Sua, lies about 3km away as the crow flies (ask someone to point you to the footpath used by the monks every morning), but it’s 19km to drive; the last 3km are on a dirt road. Take the turn-off across from Nam Tok Than Thong. It has the most amazing Mekong views we know of, and the sunset scene is wonderful in the summer months.
reviewed
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Nam Tok Than Thip
The Mekong dominates life at Sangkhom, but there are also some lovely waterfalls in the area. The largest is three-tiered Nam Tok Than Thip, 13km west of Sangkhom (2km off Rte 211). The lower level drops 30m and the second, easily reached via stairs, falls 100m. The 70m-top drop is only barely visible through the lush forest.
reviewed
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Daeng Namnuang
This massive river restaurant has grown into an Isan institution and hordes of out-of-towners head home with car boots and carry-on bags – there's an outlet at Udon Thani's airport – stuffed with năam neu·ang (pork spring rolls).
reviewed
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Nam Tok Than Thong
There are some lovely waterfalls in the area. Nam Tok Than Thong, 11km east of Sangkhom, is a wide but short drop with a swimmable pool at the bottom, although it dries up around April. The short nature trail takes you down by the Mekong. Than Thong is accessible and can be rather crowded on weekends and holidays.
reviewed
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Wat Noen Phra Nao
This forest wát on the south side of town is a respected vipassana (insight meditation) centre on pleasant, tree-shaded grounds. It serves as a spiritual retreat for those facing personal crises, Westerners included, if they're serious about meditation. Some extremely ornate temple architecture, including perhaps the most rococo bell tower we've ever seen, stands in contrast with the usual ascetic tone of forest monasteries. There are many Vietnamese and Chinese graves here and some of the statuary wouldn't be out of place at Sala Kaew Ku. The temple is unsigned off Rte 212, 1.5km east of the Grand Princess Hotel; turn south by the plant shop.
reviewed
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Café Thasadej
Sophistication is in short supply in Nong Khai, but it oozes out of this little restaurant. Both the menu and liquor list, the latter among the best in town, go global. Gyros, Weiner schnitzel, fish and chips, lasagne, tuna salad and smoked salmon are some of the most popular options.
reviewed
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Nagarina
As with nearly all fa·ràng-focused guest houses in Thailand, the Thai food at Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse is toned down and not recommended. (The Western breakfasts, on the other hand, are quite tasty.) But fear not lovers of Thai food, the kitchen of its floating restaurant turns out nothing but the real deal. It specialises in fish and often features unusual species from the Mekong. There's a sunset cruise (100B) most nights around 5pm.
reviewed
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Rom Luang
Though the menu is mainly Thai, most of the Yellow Umbrella’s best-known dishes, like sausages and kor mŏo yâhng (grilled pork neck), are Isan specialities. The handmade tables and chairs add flair, and the grills stay smoking until 5am.
reviewed
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Wat Tung Sawang
The bòht here is one of the city's smallest, but the artistic flair put into the decoration makes it one of the prettiest. Nine sculptures of celestial deities sit on fanciful pedestals alongside it.
reviewed
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Nung-Len Coffee Bar
This petite place with an ever-smiling owner has good java and juices plus an eclectic menu of Thai and fa·ràng food, and even a few fusions of the two, such as 'spaghetti fried chilli with chicken'.
reviewed
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Khrua Sukapap Kwan Im
The owners of this simple little vegetarian place make a mumsy fuss over fa·ràng diners. The food is Thai and Chinese standards (from a buffet counter and an English-language menu) plus some excellent juices.
reviewed
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Wat Lam Duan
You can easily pick out this wát on the skyline because an immense Buddha image sits atop the bòht. You're welcome to climb up (shoes off) and gaze over the Mekong with it.
reviewed
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Wat Phra That Bang Phuan
Boasting a beautiful chedi that locals believe holds 29 Buddha relics, Wat Phra That Bang Phuan is one of the region's most sacred temples. Nobody knows when the first stupa was erected here, but after moving his capital from Luang Prabang to Vientiane in 1560, Lan Xang King Setthathirat commissioned grand temples to be built all around his kingdom, including a new stupa built over an older one here. Rain caused it to lean precariously and in 1970 it finally fell over. It was rebuilt in 1976–77. The current one stands 34m high on a 17-sq-metre base and has many unsurfaced chedi around it, giving the temple an ancient atmosphere; and it's this, much more than the main s…
reviewed
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Warm Up
This little place rises above, both figuratively and literally, the other bars at this end of Th Rimkhong. It looks out over the river, has a free pool table and is popular with both Thais and travellers.
reviewed
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Village Vocational Training Center
This school is 7km south of town (take Hwy 2 and follow the sign east). It’s a great place to see the mát·mèe process from start to finish, and it also has a pottery workshop and mushroom farm.
reviewed
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Village Weaver Handicrafts
This place sells high-quality, handwoven fabrics and clothing (ready made or made to order) that help fund development projects around Nong Khai. The mát·mèe cotton is particularly good here.
reviewed
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Tha Sadet Market
This huge market runs for most of the day and offers the usual mix of dried food, electronic items, souvenirs and assorted bric-a-brac, most of it imported from Laos and China.
reviewed
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Governor's Mansion Museum
The renovated 1929 French-colonial mansion has more shine outside than in. It's lovely lit up at night.
reviewed
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Darika Bakery
If you're an early riser, this spartan English-speaking outfit will be waiting for you from 5am with hearty egg-and-toast breakfasts, banana pancakes, baguette sandwiches and more.
reviewed
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Village Weaver Workshop
This workshop, where some of the nearby Village Weaver Handicrafts’ products are produced, has a somewhat different inventory, with many more Lao designs.
reviewed
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Riverside Restaurants
During the day, grilled fish reigns supreme at the lunch-only riverside restaurants tucked behind Tha Sadet Market.
reviewed
