Things to do in Nong Khai
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Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park
One of Thailand’s most enigmatic attractions, Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park is a surreal, sculptural journey into the mind of a mystic shaman. Built over a period of 20 years by Luang Pu Boun Leua Sourirat, who died in 1996, the park features a weird and wonderful array of gigantic sculptures ablaze with Hindu-Buddhist imagery.
To get to Sala Kaew Ku, board a bus heading to Phon Phisai or any other eastern destination and ask to get off at Wat Khaek (10B), as the park is also known; it’s about a fiveminute walk from the highway. Chartered túk-túk cost 150B return with a one-hour wait – don’t pay up front, or it may turn into a oneway fare. Or you can reach it by bike in a…
reviewed
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Wat Pho Chai
Luang Po Phra Sai, a large Lan Xang–era Buddha image awash with gold, bronze and precious stones, sits at the hub of Nong Khai's holiest temple. The head of the image is pure gold, the body is bronze and the ùt·sà·nít (flame-shaped head ornament) is set with rubies. Due to a great number of dubious miracles people attribute to it, this royal temple is a mandatory stop for most visiting Thais.
Luang Po Phra Sai was one of three similar statues made for each of the daughters of Lao King Setthathirat, and they were taken as bounty after King Rama I sacked Vientiane in 1778. The murals in the bòht depict their travels from the interior of Laos to the banks of the Mekon…
reviewed
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Daeng Namnuang
This massive river restaurant has grown into an Isan institution and hordes of out-of-towners head home with car boots and carry-on bags – there's an outlet at Udon Thani's airport – stuffed with năam neu·ang (pork spring rolls).
reviewed
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Wat Noen Phra Nao
This forest wát on the south side of town is a respected vipassana (insight meditation) centre on pleasant, tree-shaded grounds. It serves as a spiritual retreat for those facing personal crises, Westerners included, if they're serious about meditation. Some extremely ornate temple architecture, including perhaps the most rococo bell tower we've ever seen, stands in contrast with the usual ascetic tone of forest monasteries. There are many Vietnamese and Chinese graves here and some of the statuary wouldn't be out of place at Sala Kaew Ku. The temple is unsigned off Rte 212, 1.5km east of the Grand Princess Hotel; turn south by the plant shop.
reviewed
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Café Thasadej
Sophistication is in short supply in Nong Khai, but it oozes out of this little restaurant. Both the menu and liquor list, the latter among the best in town, go global. Gyros, Weiner schnitzel, fish and chips, lasagne, tuna salad and smoked salmon are some of the most popular options.
reviewed
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Nagarina
As with nearly all fa·ràng-focused guest houses in Thailand, the Thai food at Mut Mee Garden Guesthouse is toned down and not recommended. (The Western breakfasts, on the other hand, are quite tasty.) But fear not lovers of Thai food, the kitchen of its floating restaurant turns out nothing but the real deal. It specialises in fish and often features unusual species from the Mekong. There's a sunset cruise (100B) most nights around 5pm.
reviewed
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Rom Luang
Though the menu is mainly Thai, most of the Yellow Umbrella’s best-known dishes, like sausages and kor mŏo yâhng (grilled pork neck), are Isan specialities. The handmade tables and chairs add flair, and the grills stay smoking until 5am.
reviewed
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Wat Tung Sawang
The bòht here is one of the city's smallest, but the artistic flair put into the decoration makes it one of the prettiest. Nine sculptures of celestial deities sit on fanciful pedestals alongside it.
reviewed
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Nung-Len Coffee Bar
This petite place with an ever-smiling owner has good java and juices plus an eclectic menu of Thai and fa·ràng food, and even a few fusions of the two, such as 'spaghetti fried chilli with chicken'.
reviewed
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Khrua Sukapap Kwan Im
The owners of this simple little vegetarian place make a mumsy fuss over fa·ràng diners. The food is Thai and Chinese standards (from a buffet counter and an English-language menu) plus some excellent juices.
reviewed
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Wat Lam Duan
You can easily pick out this wát on the skyline because an immense Buddha image sits atop the bòht. You're welcome to climb up (shoes off) and gaze over the Mekong with it.
reviewed
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Warm Up
This little place rises above, both figuratively and literally, the other bars at this end of Th Rimkhong. It looks out over the river, has a free pool table and is popular with both Thais and travellers.
reviewed
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Village Vocational Training Center
This school is 7km south of town (take Hwy 2 and follow the sign east). It’s a great place to see the mát·mèe process from start to finish, and it also has a pottery workshop and mushroom farm.
reviewed
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Village Weaver Handicrafts
This place sells high-quality, handwoven fabrics and clothing (ready made or made to order) that help fund development projects around Nong Khai. The mát·mèe cotton is particularly good here.
reviewed
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Tha Sadet Market
This huge market runs for most of the day and offers the usual mix of dried food, electronic items, souvenirs and assorted bric-a-brac, most of it imported from Laos and China.
reviewed
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Governor's Mansion Museum
The renovated 1929 French-colonial mansion has more shine outside than in. It's lovely lit up at night.
reviewed
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Darika Bakery
If you're an early riser, this spartan English-speaking outfit will be waiting for you from 5am with hearty egg-and-toast breakfasts, banana pancakes, baguette sandwiches and more.
reviewed
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Village Weaver Workshop
This workshop, where some of the nearby Village Weaver Handicrafts’ products are produced, has a somewhat different inventory, with many more Lao designs.
reviewed
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Riverside Restaurants
During the day, grilled fish reigns supreme at the lunch-only riverside restaurants tucked behind Tha Sadet Market.
reviewed
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Nong Khai Museum
This little museum in the former city hall has little more than old photographs, but there's enough English labelling to make it worth a few minutes of your time, and the price is right.
reviewed
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Night Market
For quick, colourful eats visit the night market between Soi Cheunjit and Th Hai Sok.
reviewed
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Hornbill Books
Buys, sells and trades English-language books. Has internet access too.
reviewed
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Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park
One of Thailand’s most enigmatic attractions, Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park is a surreal, sculptural journey into the mind of a mystic shaman. Built over a period of 20 years by Luang Pu Boun Leua Sourirat, who died in 1996, the park features a weird and wonderful array of gigantic sculptures ablaze with Hindu-Buddhist imagery.
To get to Sala Kaew Ku, board a bus heading to Phon Phisai or any other eastern destination and ask to get off at Wat Khaek (10B), as the park is also known; it’s about a fiveminute walk from the highway. Chartered túk-túk cost 150B return with a one-hour wait – don’t pay up front, or it may turn into a oneway fare. Or you can reach it by bike in a…
reviewed
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Wihan Ji Gong
The city's newest Chinese temple is dedicated to Ji Gong, an eccentric and heavy-drinking Chinese monk – he's usually depicted with a bottle of wine in his hand – now worshipped as a deity who assists and heals people in need. Also known as Sanjao Tek-Ka-Ji, it features an eye-catching octagonal tower with murals creatively done in black and white.
reviewed
