Things to do in Nakhon Si Thammarat
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Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihaan
The most important wát in southern Thailand, Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihaan (simply known as Mahathat) is a stunning campus boasting 77 chedi (stupa) and an imposing 77m chedi crowned by a gold spire. According to legend, Queen Hem Chala and Prince Thanakuman brought relics to Nakhon over 1000 years ago, and built a small pagoda to house the precious icons. The temple has since grown into a rambling site, and today, crowds gather daily to purchase the popular Jatukham amulets. Don't miss the modest ceramics museum inside.
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Mesa Chotiphan
Puppet craftsperson Mesa Chotiphan, has a workshop in the northern part of the city; visitors are welcome. Call if you would like to be picked up from anywhere in Nakhon Si Thammarat. To get there, go north from the city centre on Th Ratchadamnoen, and about 500m north of the sports field, take the soi opposite the Chinese cemetery (before reaching the golf course and military base).
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Rock 99
The choice fa·ràng hang-out in Nakhon, Rock 99 has a good selection of international fare – from taco salads to pizzas (avoid the Thai fare though). There's live music on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, but expect to bump into friendly expats almost all the time.
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National Museum
When the Tampaling (also known as Tambralinga) kingdom traded with merchants from Indian, Arabic, Dvaravati and Champa states, the region around Nakhon became a melting pot of crafts and art. Today, many of these relics are on display behind the run-down facade of the national museum.
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Khrua Nakhon
This joint has a great selection of traditional Nakhon cuisine. Order a sharing platter, which comes with five types of curry (including an unpalatable spicy fish sauce), or try the kôw yam (southern-style rice salad). There's one at a second location in Robinson Ocean Mall.
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Suchart Subsin
The acknowledged Thai master of shadow puppet craft is Suchart Subsin. He has recieved several awards for his mastery and preservation of the craft and has performed for the king. Puppets are only purchasable at his studio - he refuses to sell them through distributors.
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Krua Talay
Located near the Kukwang Market, Krua Talay is the top spot in town for succulent seafood. It can be a little pricey compared to the other nontouristy chow spots around town, but the locals agree that it’s definitely worth it.
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Country Home
This large, open-air bar invokes the Wild West with saloon-style seating and an odd smattering of straw hats. There’s live music every night and the joint gets packed with beer-toting locals.
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OTOP
There's an OTOP crafts centre a block away from TAT on the west side of Sanam Na Meuang Park (City Park).
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Hao Coffee
Dishes out quick and convenient breakfasts, and the coffee is pretty darn good.
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Shadow Puppets
Traditionally, there are two styles of local shadow puppet: năng đà·lung and năng yài. At just under 1m tall, the former feature movable appendages and parts (including genitalia); the latter are nearly life-sized, and lack moving parts. Both are intricately carved from cow hide. Suchart Subsin's puppet house has a small museum where staff can demonstrate the cutting process. Short shows can be performed for visitors for a nominal fee.
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