Sights in Nakhon Si Thammarat
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Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihaan
The most important wát in southern Thailand, Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihaan (simply known as Mahathat) is a stunning campus boasting 77 chedi (stupa) and an imposing 77m chedi crowned by a gold spire. According to legend, Queen Hem Chala and Prince Thanakuman brought relics to Nakhon over 1000 years ago, and built a small pagoda to house the precious icons. The temple has since grown into a rambling site, and today, crowds gather daily to purchase the popular Jatukham amulets. Don't miss the modest ceramics museum inside.
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Mesa Chotiphan
Puppet craftsperson Mesa Chotiphan, has a workshop in the northern part of the city; visitors are welcome. Call if you would like to be picked up from anywhere in Nakhon Si Thammarat. To get there, go north from the city centre on Th Ratchadamnoen, and about 500m north of the sports field, take the soi opposite the Chinese cemetery (before reaching the golf course and military base).
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National Museum
When the Tampaling (also known as Tambralinga) kingdom traded with merchants from Indian, Arabic, Dvaravati and Champa states, the region around Nakhon became a melting pot of crafts and art. Today, many of these relics are on display behind the run-down facade of the national museum.
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Suchart Subsin
The acknowledged Thai master of shadow puppet craft is Suchart Subsin. He has recieved several awards for his mastery and preservation of the craft and has performed for the king. Puppets are only purchasable at his studio - he refuses to sell them through distributors.
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Shadow Puppets
Traditionally, there are two styles of local shadow puppet: năng đà·lung and năng yài. At just under 1m tall, the former feature movable appendages and parts (including genitalia); the latter are nearly life-sized, and lack moving parts. Both are intricately carved from cow hide. Suchart Subsin's puppet house has a small museum where staff can demonstrate the cutting process. Short shows can be performed for visitors for a nominal fee.
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