Things to do in Lopburi
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Phra Narai Ratchaniwet
Start your tour of Lopburi at this former royal palace. Inside the palace grounds is the Lopburi Museum (officially called Somdet Phra Narai National Museum), which houses displays of local history. The museum is divided into three separate buildings. In Phiman Mongkut Pavilion there are sculptures and art from the Lopburi, Khmer, Dvaravati, U Thong and Ayuthaya periods. The Chantara Phisan Throne Hall contains paintings and artefacts in memory of King Narai, while the European-style Phra Pratiab Building has a small display of traditional handicraft and hunting tools.
Built between 1665 and 1677, with help from French and Italian engineers, the palace was used to welcome …
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Prang Sam Yot
Opposite San Phra Kan, the Prang Sam Yot represents classic Khmer-Lopburi style and is Lopburi's most photographed Hindu-turned-Buddhist temple. Originally, the three towers symbolised the Hindu Trimurti of Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. Now two of them contain ruined Lopburi-style Buddha images. Some Khmer lintels can still be made out, and some appear unfinished.
An U Thong-Ayuthaya imitation Buddha image sits in the brick sanctuary in front of the linked towers. At the back are a couple of crudely restored images, probably once Lopburi style. The grounds allotted to Prang Sam Yot are quite small and virtually surrounded by modern buildings. The best view of the monument is …
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Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat
The Fine Arts Department has restored the large 12th-century Khmer Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat, considered one of the city's oldest. During Lopburi's heyday, it was the town's largest monastery, a fact clearly shown on a map drawn by French cartographers in 1687. A tall laterite tower still stands and features a few intact lintels and some ornate stucco. There is also a large wíhaan added by King Narai. Several chedi and smaller towers dot the grounds.
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Chao Phraya Wichayen
King Narai built this Thai-European palace as a residence for foreign ambassadors. Greek diplomat and trader Constantine Phaulkon was its most famous resident. Phaulkon’s knowledge of European technology helped him gain a place in King Narai’s inner circle. However, jealous courtiers disliked his power and riches, and as Narai lay dying, Phaulkon was arrested and beheaded. The palace is across the street and northeast of Wat Sao Thong Thong.
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Chao Phraya Wichayen
King Narai built the Thai-European Chao Phraya Wichayen as a residence for foreign ambassadors, of whom the Greek Constantine Phaulkon was the most famous. Phaulkon became one of King Narai's advisers and was eventually a royal minister. He was also implicated in an attempted coup and in 1688, as Narai lay dying, Phaulkon was assassinated by Luang Sorasak, who wanted power for himself. The palace is across the street and northeast of Wat Sao Thong Thong.
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Wat San Paolo
A partial brick and stucco tower is all that's left of Wat San Paolo, a Jesuit church founded by the Portuguese during King Narai's reign. A contingent of a dozen French priests came to run the church in 1687. An octagonal, three-storey celestial observatory was also erected here, though it is unclear under whose direction it was built.
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Prang Sam Yot
Prang Sam Yot is the most famous and most photographed attraction in Lopburi. The three linked towers originally symbolised the Hindu Trimurti of Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. Now two of them contain ruined Lopburi-style Buddha images. The towers are accessible and offer relief from the heat and monkeys.
Young guides show visitors around for a small donation and, while their English is minimal, their catapults keep the monkeys at bay. The monument is the best example of Khmer-Lopburi architecture, and looks especially good at night when illuminated.
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Wat Nakhon Kosa
Just along from the train station is Wat Nakhon Kosa. Built in the 12th century it may have originally been a Hindu shrine. The main chedi was built during the Dvaravati period, while the wí·hǎhn was added later by King Narai. To the rear is a collection of headless Buddha images.
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Wat Sao Thong Thong
Northwest of the palace centre, Wat Sao Thong Thong is remarkable for its unusual Gothic-style windows, which were added by King Narai so it could be used as a Christian chapel.
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Central Market
Wander through the narrow alleyways and take in the sights and smells of this local market. Blood-red strawberries, orange prawns and silver fish are laid out alongside kôw đom mùd (rice wrapped in coconut leaves), đa·go peu·ak (taro custard with coconut milk) and gài tôrt (fried chicken). In the centre is a vegetarian pavilion.
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Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat
Opposite the train station is this 13th-century Khmer wát. Once the town's largest monastery, it has been heavily renovated and makes for a great photo opportunity. The central Phra Prang has bas-relief depicting the life of the Buddha while its arched gate has images in the style of the Lawo period. The northwestern prang has U Thong–style angels; their oblong faces and unusual halos are rare.
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Prang Khaek
The oldest monument in Lopburi, this 11th-century tower is on a triangular piece of land bordered by Th Wichayen to the north. The structure has Khmer-style brickwork and was possibly once a temple to the Hindu god Shiva.
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Thaisawang House
Opposite Phra Narai Ratchaniwet, the Thai-Vietnamese menu here is extensive and portions are generous. Steamed pancakes are a particular favourite. Check out the 'shrine' surrounded by toy action figures behind the counter.
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Khao Tom Hor
The busiest place in town offers excellent Thai-Chinese dishes, including salid tôrd (deep-fried salted fish) and pàd gàprow gài (chicken with kaprao leaf). Service is speedy and efficient.
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Chok Dee Dimsum Restaurant
Meat dumplings and steamed pork balls are among the tiny but tempting dishes here. The waiters who herald the arrival of every dish with a little cry give this place a cheery feel.
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Come On Bar
A sleepy town like Lopburi doesn't see much nightly action beyond the night market, but the Come On Bar is an exception with a solid Western soundtrack, and tourist information.
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Jontrajao
Jontrajao is a popular venue for locals with its Karabao-style house band. There’s no English sign, so look for the giant ‘Benmore’ advert on the roof.
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Noom Guesthouse
One of a couple of old town options, where expats cradle their Changs and Leos.
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Good View
With its split-level design and great seafood, the best of the open-air restaurants and bars on Th Naresuan in the new town.
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Street Stalls
Lopburi has the usual assortment of street stalls serving tasty food, which congregate in front of the Nett Hotel and on Th Na Phra Kan in the evenings.
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White House
This colonial-looking restaurant offers reasonable Thai-Chinese dishes, and while you’re eating you can grill the amiable Khun Piak for travel tips.
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Wat Indra
Practically nothing is known about the history of Wat Indra, which is now merely a sizable brick foundation, the curse of a forgetful history.
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Wat Khao Wong Kot
About 30km west of Lopburi is Wat Khao Wong Kot, home to an enormous bat cave. At sunset hundreds of thousands of bats emerge for their nocturnal hunt. To find the cave, take the 280 steps to the right of the temple entrance. The temple can be reached by taking a train (6/26B) north from Lopburi to Ban Mee station and then catching a motorbike taxi. Buses (23B) also run hourly to Ban Mee. However, the last train to Lopburi departs at 4.45pm while the last bus is at 5.30pm so you will need private transport to witness the bat exodus.
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To eat with the locals, pull up a plastic stool and snack on the fantastic gaang Ъàh néua (curry) and slushy frozen beer. Seating is opposite the restaurant by a grassy verge or inside, next to the chaotic kitchen. Look for the big red sign.
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