Things to do in Kanchanaburi Province
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Apple & Noi's Thai Cooking Course
If you don't know your sôm·đam from your đôm yam then Khun Noi can assist. The one-day course starts at the local market and ends, four dishes later, at the dining table.
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Apple Guest House
This guesthouse restaurant introduces newcomers to Thai food without being condescending. Both the kaeng mátsàmàn (Muslim-style curry) and phàt thai are highly recommended.
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Death Railway Bridge
This little railway bridge is not nearly as impressive in person as the dramatic story that made it famous. The materials for the bridge were brought from Java by the Imperial Japanese Army during its 1942-43 occupation of Thailand. The first version of the bridge, completed in February 1943, was all wood. In April of the same year a second bridge of steel was constructed.
In 1945 the bridge was bombed several times Allied planes and was only rebuilt after the war - the curved portions of the bridge are original.
The bridge spans Mae Nam Khwae Yai, which is 2.5km from the centre of Kanchanaburi. The most enjoyable way to get to the bridge from town is to rent a bicycle or …
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Wat Tham Seua & Wat Tham Khao Noi
These neighbouring hilltop monasteries are of interest due to their vastly different styles. Wat Tham Khao Noi (Little Hill Cave Monastery) has an intricately designed Chinese-style pagoda while next door the larger Wat Tham Seua (Tiger Cave Monastery) has several styles of chedi and an 18m-tall Buddha covered in a golden mosaic. In front of the Buddha image a conveyor belt has small silver trays into which donations are made and then tipped into a central pot. You can walk to the top or take the easy option and go by cable car (10B).
The temples are around 14km south of the town centre. If coming by motorbike, take the right fork of the highway when you reach Tha Meuang, …
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Wat Tham Mangkon Thong
The 'Cave Temple of the Golden Dragon' has long been an attraction because of the 'floating nun' - a mâe chii (Thai Buddhist nun) who meditated while floating on her back in a pool of water. The original nun passed away, but a disciple continues the tradition - sort of. The current floating nun does not meditate but instead she strikes Buddha-like poses based upon traditional mudra (ritual hand movements). Shows do not have a set schedule but instead are timed for the arrival of tour groups.
Most Western visitors prefer to visit the temple cave instead of the swimming antics. A long, steep series of steps with dragon-sculpted handrails leads on up the craggy mountainside…
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Wat Pa Luangta Bua Yannasampanno
One of Kanchanaburi’s more bizarre tourist destinations is Wat Pa Luangta Bua Yannasampanno, known colloquially as the Tiger Temple. After gaining a reputation as a refuge for wounded animals, the temple received its first tiger cub in 1999 and has accumulated dozens more since. During visiting hours, the cats are led around a quarry and, for a hefty fee, will pose for photos with tourists. Although the efforts are undeniably the result of goodwill, there’s something disconcerting (not to mention surreal) about seeing monks leading full-grown tigers around on leashes and tourists posing for pictures (for extra money) with said huge cats lying in their laps. The tigers d…
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Wat Pa Luangta Bua Yannasampanno
One of Kanchanaburi’s more bizarre tourist destinations is Wat Pa Luangta Bua Yannasampanno, known colloquially as the Tiger Temple. After gaining a reputation as a refuge for wounded animals, the temple received its first tiger cub in 1999 and has accumulated 17 more since. During visiting hours, the cats are led around a quarry by the monks, and for a fee, will pose for photos with tourists. Although the efforts are undeniably the result of goodwill, there’s something disconcerting (not to mention surreal) about seeing monks leading full-grown tigers around on leashes and tourists posing for pictures (for extra money) with said huge cats lying in their laps. The tiger…
reviewed
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Jeath War Museum
This small museum resembles the bamboo-ata in which POWs were kept. Newspaper cuttings, letters and artwork line the sides of the long hut and offer harsh reminders of the brutal punishments meted out by Japanese troops. The archives focus heavily on surgeon Sir Edward 'Weary' Dunlop, who saved hundreds of lives by operating on injured soldiers and fighting to improve basic medical conditions. The museum is run by the monks of the adjacent Wat Chaichumphon (Wat Tai), which in itself is worth a visit. Jeath is an acronym of the countries involved in the railway: Japan, England, Australia/USA, Thailand and Holland. The war museum is at the west end of Th Wisuttharangsi (Vis…
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JEATH War Museum
The JEATH War Museum is arguably the pick of the memorials in Kanchanaburi and is a moving testament to war’s atrocities. The museum operates in the grounds of a local temple and has reconstructions of the bamboo huts used by the POWs as shelter. The long huts contain various photographs taken during the war, drawings and paintings by POWs, maps, weapons and other war memorabilia. The acronym JEATH represents the fated meeting of Japan, England, Australia/America, Thailand and Holland at Kanchanaburi during WWII. The war museum is at the end of Th Wisuttharangsi (Visutrangsi), near the TAT office. The common Thai name for this museum is Phíphítháphan Songkhram Wát Tâi…
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Sai Yok National Park
Northwest of Kanchanaburi town is the area’s natural playground. Erawan National Park sports a watery mane of waterfalls visited by locals and tourists for a day trip of photographs, picnics and swimming. Sai Yok National Park has more variety: waterfalls, limestone caves, hot springs and accommodation. Tour organisers in Kanchanaburi arrange day outings to these parks on various expeditions: river kayaking, elephant trekking, waterfall spotting and bamboo rafting – Kanchanaburi has it all, plus people persuading you to do it (for some of your baht, of course).
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Erawan National Park
Northwest of Kanchanaburi town is the area’s natural playground. Erawan National Park sports a watery mane of waterfalls visited by locals and tourists for a day trip of photographs, picnics and swimming. Sai Yok National Park has more variety: waterfalls, limestone caves, hot springs and accommodation. Tour organisers in Kanchanaburi arrange day outings to these parks on various expeditions: river kayaking, elephant trekking, waterfall spotting and bamboo rafting – Kanchanaburi has it all, plus people persuading you to do it (for some of your baht, of course).
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Daen Maha Mongkol Meditation Centre
Should you dream of a stress-free world without mobile phones, reality TV and email, then you are in luck. This meditation centre, founded in 1986, is a popular retreat set within well-kept and spacious grounds. Tamara, an English woman who has lived there for several years, leads two-hour meditation classes, which take place at 4am and 6pm. Cross the teak bridge over the Mae Nam Khwae Noi to get in, and first pay respects before the wooden Buddha image in the meditation pavilion. About 300 people stay at the centre, most of them permanently. Most are nuns, but there is a separate area for men. There is no charge for visiting or even staying here, but donations are apprec…
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Wat Tham Khao Pun
Continue past the Chung Kai Allied War Cemetery and go over a railway crossing to find this temple, which has a collection of nine different caves. The first, and biggest cave, is home to a reclining Buddha, while the others have some particularly unusual features, including a fig tree’s roots that hang all the way down into the cave, a crystallised column and a rock formation said to resemble a mermaid from the literature of Thai poet Sunthorn Phu. The exact origins of the temple are a mystery, though it is known that King Rama V visited here in 1870.
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Allied War Cemetery
Across the street from the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre is the Allied War Cemetery, which is immaculately maintained by the War Graves Commission. Of the 6982 POWs buried here, nearly half were British; the rest came mainly from Australia and the Netherlands. It is estimated that at least 100,000 people died while working on the railway, the majority being labourers from nearby Asian countries, though not one of these has an identifiable grave. If you are looking for the resting place of a loved one, a small office to the side has lists of names and their locations within the cemetery.
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JEATH War Museum
The simple JEATH War Museum operates in the grounds of a local temple and has reconstructions of the long bamboo huts used by the POWs as shelter. Inside are various photographs, drawings, maps, weapons, paintings by POWs and other war memorabilia. The acronym JEATH represents the ill-fated meeting of Japan, England, Australia/America, Thailand and Holland at Kanchanaburi during WWII. The war museum is at the end of Th Wisuttharangsi (Visutrangsi). The common Thai name for this museum is pí·pí·tá·pan sŏng·krahm wát đâi (Wat Tai War Museum).
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Baan Unrak
The large orange building overlooking the town is Baan Unrak, which cares for orphaned or abandoned children from ethnic groups.
As well as the children's home, Baan Unrak runs a weaving centre to provide an income for local women, helps single mothers, and works with HIV/AIDS patients.
Most of the children at Baan Unrak are Karen and all follow the home's neohumanist philosophy of vegetarianism, universal love and meditation.
Due to the large refugee numbers in Sangkhlaburi there is great demand for such services, and volunteers are always needed. The home usually only accepts helpers for six months or longer, but visitors are welcome. The children stage yoga performances a…
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Wat Tham Khao Pun
The limestone hills surrounding Kanchanaburi are famous for their temple caves, an underground communion of animistic spirit worship and traditional Buddhism. Winding arteries burrow into the guts of the caves past bulbous calcium deposits and altars for reclining or meditating Buddhas, surrounded by offerings from pilgrims. Wat Tham Khao Pun is one of the closest cave temples, and is best reached by bicycle. The temple is about 4km from the TAT office and 1km southwest of the Chung Kai cemetery across the railroad tracks and midway up the hill.
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Wat Tham Khao Pun
The limestone hills surrounding Kanchanaburi are famous for their temple caves, an underground communion of animistic spirit worship and traditional Buddhism. Winding arteries burrow into the guts of the caves past bulbous calcium deposits and altars for reclining or meditating Buddhas, surrounded by offerings from pilgrims. Wat Tham Khao Pun is one of the closest cave temples, and is best reached by bicycle. The temple is about 4km from the TAT office and 1km southwest of the Chung Kai cemetery across the railroad tracks and midway up the hill.
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Hellfire Pass Memorial
Viewing the bridge and museums doesn’t quite communicate the immense task of bending the landscape with human muscle. A better understanding comes from a visit to the Hellfire Pass Memorial, an Australian-Thai Chamber of Commerce memorial dedicated to the POW labourers, 75km north of Kanchanaburi. A crew of 1000 prisoners worked for 12 weeks to cut a pass through the mountainous area dubbed Hellfire Pass. Nearly 70% of the crew died in the process. A memorial museum and walking trail remember their work and lives.
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Hellfire Pass Memorial
A better understanding comes from a visit to the excellent Hellfire Pass Memorial, an Australian–Thai Chamber of Commerce memorial and museum dedicated to the POW labourers, 75km north of Kanchanaburi. A crew of 1000 prisoners worked for 12 weeks to cut a pass through the mountainous area dubbed Hellfire Pass. Nearly 70% of them died in the process. An interactive museum is enhanced by several short films. Below the museum is a walking trail along the track itself and through Hellfire Pass.
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Thailand-Burma Railway Centre
The pick of the museums is the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre, where interactive exhibits, short films and clear descriptions provide the context of the Japanese aggression in Southeast Asia, detail their plans for the railway and describe the horrors faced by those prisoners who worked and died constructing it. Give yourself a full hour to read through the museum, and stop for a coffee upstairs for sweeping views across the cemetery. Ex-POWs and their families get special treatment.
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Kanchanaburi Allied War Cemetery
The Kanchanaburi Allied War Cemetery is the final resting place of about 7000 prisoners who died while working on the railway. The cemetery is meticulously maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (www.cwgc.org), and the rows of headstones are identical except for the names and short epitaphs. It’s just around the corner from the riverside guesthouses, or you could catch a sǎwngthǎew anywhere along Th Saengchuto going north.
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WWII Museum
The WWII Museum beside the bridge has a picture-postcard view and an eclectic assortment of war and peace memorabilia, though you wouldn’t call it a must-see. The larger, more lavish of the two buildings contains Burmese-style alabaster Buddhas and a phrá khrêuang (sacred amulets) display. Upper floors exhibit Thai weaponry from the Ayuthaya period, ceramics and brightly painted portraits of all the kings in Thai history.
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Hellfire War Memorial
To truly understand the suffering that occurred along the Burma-Thailand Railway in WWII, a visit to this war memorial is imperative. Start at the museum on the top level, look out over the contemplation deck, then walk along the trail that runs alongside the original rail bed.
Near the start of the route is the infamous cutting known as Hellfire Pass (locally referred to as Konyu Cutting). The area earned its name following the three-month 'Speedo' construction period where shifts of 500 prisoners worked 16 to 18 hours a day. The glow from burning torches cast eerie shadows of the Japanese guards and of the gaunt prisoners' faces, so that the scene was said to resemble Da…
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Jay Tiw
A block away from Kok Kaat, towards the city centre, Jay Tiw boasts only 19 dishes, but emphasises quality over quantity. To reach both restaurants, hop on any sǎwngthǎew heading south along Th Saengchuto and ask to get off at sǎalaa klaang jangwàt (City Hall). The restaurants are more or less across the street – just look for the rows of stainless steel pots.
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