Sights in Chiang Mai Province
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Night Bazaar
This extensive market sprawls along several blocks. Roofed concession areas, regular shops and street vendors offer a huge variety of Thai goods at bargain prices. Designer goods - real and fake - are also on offer. The Night Bazaar attracts foreign importers, impressed by the discounts given to bulk purchases.
Good buys include Phrae-style sêua mâw hâwm (blue cotton farmer's shirt), northern- and northeastern-Thai hand-woven fabrics, yâam (shoulder bags), hill-tribe crafts (many tribespeople set up their own stalls here; the Akha wander around on foot), opium scales, hats, silver jewellery, lacquerware, woodcarvings, iron and bronze Buddhas, as well as many other item…
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Talat Tonlamyai
Facing the river, the city's main fresh flower market is locally called gàht dòrk mái. The arm-width bundles of asters, roses and coreopsis are ripened in the cooler climate of the surrounding highlands and brought to market at night to avoid the wilting daytime heat. Varieties that need even colder temperatures, such as pussy willow, are grown by hill-tribe villages perched at higher altitudes. Then there are the voluptuous tropical flowers, like jasmine, orchids and lotus buds, which flourish in the heat. The flower market is always busy but even more so during citywide festivals, such as Loi Krathong and, of course, the Flower Festival.
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Wat Phan Tao
Near Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phan Tao contains a beautiful old teak wí·hăhn that was once a royal residence and is today one of the unsung treasures of Chiang Mai. Constructed entirely of moulded teak panels fitted together and supported by 28 gargantuan teak pillars, the wí·hăhn features naga bargeboards inset with coloured mirror mosaic. On display inside are old temple bells, some ceramics, a few old northern-style gilded wooden Buddhas, and antique cabinets stacked with old palm-leaf manuscripts. The front panel of the building displays a mirrored mosaic of a peacock standing over a dog, representing the astrological year of the former royal resident's birth, makin…
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Wat Tha Ton
In Tha Ton, this temple climbs up the side of a wooded hill. There are nine different levels punctuated by shrines, Buddha statues and a chedi. Each level affords stunning views of the mountainous valley towards Myanmar (Burma) and the plains of Tha Ton. From the base to the ninth level, it is about 3km or a 30-minute walk. The short walk to the first level has a statue of Kuan Yin, the Chinese goddess of compassion; the international liaison monk has his office here too. There's also a herbal medical centre with traditional massage, acupuncture and public saunas.
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Tribal Museum
Overlooking a lake in Suan Ratchamangkhala on the northern outskirts of the city, this octagonal museum houses a collection of handicrafts, costumes, jewellery, ornaments, household utensils, agricultural tools, musical instruments and ceremonial paraphernalia. The museum was closed for renovations at the time of research.
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Phra Tamnak Bhu Bhing
About 4km beyond the temple is Phra Tamnak Phu Bhing, a winter palace for the royal family surrounded by gardens that are open to the public. It closes if the royal family is visiting, but that's not very often. The gardens specialise in cool-weather flowers, like roses, which are exotic to Thais. More interesting is the water reservoir brought to life by dancing fountains moving in sync to musical compositions by the king. Though not a must, the gardens are good for 'nature sightseers' who like their forests to have paved footpaths.
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Chiang Mai University
The city's principal public university was established in 1964. The main campus occupies a 2.9 sq km wedge of land about 2km west of the city centre that has preserved much of its original forest character. Architecturally the campus buildings are soot-stained boxes, but the verdant environment achieves a distinctively Thai version of an idyllic collegiate setting. The best way for visitors to enjoy the campus is to ride a bicycle through it – there are bike lanes throughout, and cafes to stop at for a refreshment break.
There are two main entrances into the campus on Th Suthep and Th Huay Kaew. When giving directions, Thais often refer to the university area on Th Suthe…
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Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre
The Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre offers a fine primer on Chiang Mai history. Be warned that when you enter you are ushered into a room for the obligatory promotional film on the history of Chiang Mai, before you can wander around. The 1st floor has engaging displays on religious and cultural elements of northern Thailand. The 2nd floor rooms have been converted into historic settings: there's an early Lanna village, a temple and a train display. From the 2nd floor you can see more of the beauty of this postcolonial building, Chiang Mai's former Provincial Hall, originally built in 1924. It was awarded a Royal Society of Siamese Architects award in 1999 for its f…
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Chiang Mai National Museum
Operated by the Fine Arts Department and established in 1973, the Chiang Mai National Museum functions as the primary caretaker of Lanna artefacts and as the curator of northern Thailand's history. This museum is a nice complement to the municipally run Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre because you'll find more art and artefacts here and the scope of the exhibits reaches beyond the city limits. The best curated section of the museum is the Lanna art section, which displays a selection of Buddha images in all styles, and explains the different periods and influences. Apart from this upstairs exhibit, the museum is a bit lacklustre, although worth a visit to orient you…
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Royal Flora Ratchaphruek
Carving out a slice of civilization at the southern base of Doi Suthep, Royal Flora Ratchaphruek first opened in 2006 as a 65-hectare garden exposition in honour of the king’s 60th anniversary on the throne. In 2008, the landscaped grounds opened to the public, but are only useable during the cool hours of the day because of the lack of shade. The same access road leads to Doi Kham, a popular jogging route that winds past Brahmin cows to the summit. You’ll want to have your own wheels to reach this area as a taxi ride would be expensive.
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Anusawari Sam Kasat
Proudly wearing 14th-century royal garb, the bronze Three Kings Monument commemorates the alliance forged between the three northern Thai-Lao kings (Phaya Ngam Meuang of Phayao, Phaya Mengrai of Chiang Mai and Phaya Khun Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai) in the founding of Chiang Mai. The statues mark one of the city's spiritual centres and have become a shrine to local residents, who regularly leave offerings of flowers, incense and candles at the bronze feet in return for blessings from the powerful spirits of the three kings.
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Wat Chiang Yeun
Another unique local temple is 16th-century Wat Chiang Yeun, just northeast of Pratu Chang Pheuak. Besides the large northern-style chedi here, the main attraction is an old Burmese colonial-style gate and pavilion on the eastern side of the school grounds attached to the wát. This area of Chiang Mai was historically settled by Shan people and the shops still maintain that ethnic identity, catering to Shan and Burmese temple-goers with such products as pickled tea leaves (mêe·ang in Thai) and Shan-style noodles.
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Chiang Dao Cave
In the heat of the day, the coolest place in town is the Chiang Dao Cave, a complex said to extend some 10km to 14km into Doi Chiang Dao. There are four interconnected caverns that are open to the public. Tham Phra Non (360m) is the initial segment and is electrically illuminated and can be explored on one’s own. It contains several religious shrines, a common feature of Thailand’s caves, which are regarded as holy meditation sites. There are also some surreal-looking stalactites reminiscent of a Salvador Dali painting.
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Doi Inthanon National Park
Thailand’s highest peak is Doi Inthanon (often abbreviated as Doi In), which measures 2565m above sea level, an impressive altitude for the kingdom, but a tad diminutive compared to its cousins in the Himalayan range. The 1000 sq km national park surrounding the peak has hiking trails, waterfalls and two monumental stupas erected in honour of the king and queen. It is a popular day trip from Chiang Mai for tourists and locals, especially during the New Year’s holiday when there’s the rarely seen phenomenon of frost.
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Wat Jet Yot
Dedicated temple-spotters are the prime candidates for Wat Jet Yot. It was built to host the eighth World Buddhist Council in 1477, a momentous occasion for the Lanna capital. To the back of the temple compound are the ruins of the old wí·hăhn, which was supposed to be a replica of the Mahabodhi Temple in Bodhgaya, India, but the proportions don't match up. Some scholars assume that the blueprint for the temple must have come from a small votive tablet depicting the Mahabodhi in distorted perspective.
Although much of the decorative stucco work is gone, you can still count the jèt yôrt (seven spires) that represent the seven weeks Buddha was supposed to have spent in …
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Sunday Walking Street
A unique shopping experience, the Sunday Walking Street offers all manner of products and a good dose of provincial culture. It is also a reminder of an itinerant merchant tradition of the ancient Chinese caravans.
Vendors line Th Ratchadamnoen all the way from the square in front of Pratu Tha Phae to Wat Phra Singh and stretching a few blocks down both sides of Th Phra Pokklao. Many of the products are handmade in and around Chiang Mai, including the cotton scarves, leather sandals and wood carvings. Chiang Mai lets down its hippie hair at this market with lots of ethnic chic accessories, undyed cotton T-shirts and 'save the planet' canvas tote bags.
The temples along th…
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Huay Teung Thao Reservoir
Thais love lounging by the water and this sizeable reservoir, at the northwestern foot of Doi Suthep-Pui National Park, has become more than just a piece of infrastructure. The banks are dotted with floating bamboo huts (10B per person), where Thais come to snack on fried bugs (another reservoir pastime), share a bottle of whisky and perfect the art of relaxation. The reservoir is about 12km northwest of the city. Travelling by car or motorcycle you can reach Huay Teung Thao by driving 10km north on Rte 107 (follow signs towards Mae Rim), then west 2km past an army camp to the reservoir.
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Matsayit Chiang Mai
A remnant from the days when Chiang Mai was a detour on the Silk Road is the Thai-Muslim community along Soi 1 off Th Chang Khlan, near Chiang Mai Night Bazaar. The 100-year-old Matsayit Chiang Mai, also known as Ban Haw Mosque, was founded by jeen hor (‘galloping Chinese’), the Thai expression for Yunnanese caravan traders. Within the past two centuries, the city’s Muslim community has also grown to include ethnic Yunnanese Muslims escaping unrest in neighbouring Laos and Burma.
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Doi Pha Hompok National Park
This Park has a hot springs complex bòr nám rórn (bor náam hórn in northern Thai) that lies about 10km west of Fang at Ban Meuang Chom, near the agricultural station, off Rte 107 at the end of Rte 5054 (the park is sometimes referred to as Doi Fang or Mae Fang National Park). On weekends there are frequent sŏrng·tăa·ou carrying Thai picnickers from Fang to the hot springs. Also around mid-day, tour groups from Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai crowd the pools.
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Wiang Kum Kam
These excavated ruins offer an easy trip into the country. Climb aboard one of the horse-drawn carriages (200B) and relax into the mellow pace of an old-fashioned conveyance. The driver typically passes pleasantries with the locals who live among the old ruins, which are mainly half-buried brick foundations spread out over 3 sq km. The actual ruins are of more historical importance than spectacle but it is the peaceful surrounding village that completes the attraction.
Wiang Kum Kam was the earliest historical settlement in the Chiang Mai area and was established by the Mon as a satellite town for the Hariphunchai kingdom. It was occupied by Phaya Mengrai in 1286 and used …
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Maesa Elephant Camp
Catch your breath at the Maesa Elephant Camp, one of the route’s better elephant attractions where the animals seem happy and treated well. One hour shows (8am and 9.40am daily, plus 1.30pm during high season) feature the usual circus-like antics. If you arrive between shows, you can hang out on the pretty grounds, feeding the elephants sugar cane and bananas or go on an elephant trek into the jungle (for two people, 30 minutes/one hour 800/1200B).
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Doi Suthep-Pui National Park
Looming over the city like guardian spirits and providing a sanctuary of forest and mountain cool air, Chiang Mai's sacred peaks, Doi Suthep (1676m) and Doi Pui (1685m) were used by the city's founders as a divine compass in locating an auspicious position. Suthep was named after the hermit Sudeva, who lived on the mountain's slopes for many years, and is the site of Chiang Mai's holy temple Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.
Portions of the mountains form a 265-sq-km national park that contains a mix of wilderness, hill-tribe villages and tourist attractions, including Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Despite human encroachment, the park is still an excellent forest playground for city d…
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Wat Suan Dok
Built on a former flower garden in 1373, this temple is not as architecturally interesting as the temples in the old city but it does have a very powerful photographic attribute: the temple’s collection of whitewashed chedi sit in the foreground while the blue peaks of Doi Suthep and Doi Pui loom in the background. Photographers often arrive in the early morning to capture the juxtaposition when the mountains are still wrapped in mist.
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Anusawari Sam Kasat Bronze Sculptures
These three Anusawari Sam Kasat bronze sculptures portray men standing in 14th-century royal costume. They represent Phaya Ngam Meuang, Phaya Mengrai and Phaya Khun Ramkhamhaeng, the three northern Thai-Lao kings most associated with Lanna history. The statuary has become a shrine to local residents, who regularly leave offerings of flowers, incense and candles at the bronze feet in return for (hoped for) blessings from the powerful spirits of the three kings.
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Sbun-Nga Textile Museum
A surprisingly wonderful museum, Sbun-Nga Textile Museum displays northern Thai textiles along with ethno-cultural information about the different tribes that are categorised as Lanna: Tai Lue, Tai Kaun, Tai Yai and Tai Yuan. The different patterns and colours used by each group is an evocative way to tell the story of the people who populated Chiang Mai and northern Thailand. There are also some displays of Tai Lao fabrics.
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