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Ratana's Kitchen
An air-con spot owned by an English-Thai couple, Ratana's is situated in a prime Th Tha Phae location. The inexpensive menu offers Thai dishes from several regions, as well as a few faràng items.
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Ratchamankha
Tucked away in the sumptuous grounds of the boutique hotel of the same name, behind Wat Phra Singh, one dines at the Ratchamankha to enjoy the antique-laden atmosphere as much as the food. The menu is Thai-centred, with hints of Vietnam, Japan and Europe floating at the periphery.
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Riverside Bar and Restaurant
This rambling set of wooden buildings has been the most consistently popular riverside place for over 20 years. The food - Thai, Western and vegetarian - is always good, and it's as popular with Thais as with faràng . The atmosphere is convivial and there's live music nightly. Choose from the indoor and outdoor dining areas or pay more for a seat (extra for food) on the nightly river cruise.
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Rot Sawoei
This unassuming open-air spot is famous for its delectable kǔaytǐaw kài tǔn yaa jiin (rice noodles with Chinese herb-steamed chicken) that practically melts off the bone.
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Sailomyoy
This simple, cheap place serves good Thai noodles, rice, curries and soups. Breakfast is available; try the mango and sticky rice pudding.
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Shere Shiraz
Serves mostly north Indian food, with a few south Indian dishes. The extensive menu includes many vegetarian options.
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Si Phen Restaurant
This inexpensive stopover specialises in both northern- and northeastern-style dishes. The kitchen prepares some of the best sôm-tam (spicy papaya salad) in the city, including a variation made with pomelo fruit.
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Sila-aat
This is a good place to re-fuel after temple exploring. Sila-aat offers generous portions of Thai and Chinese dishes. Their pad thai (rice noodle dish) is particularly delicious and has lots of salad on the side.
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Smoothie Blues
Great for breakfast and lunch, Smoothie Blues does fantastic muffins, bagels, waffles and muesli, as well as sandwiches and baguettes. Their smoothies are to die for - try Berry Berry Booster packed with raspberries, and blue, red and black berries.
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Sophia
Sophia serves good curries and khâo mòk kài (Thai-Muslim version of chicken briyani).
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Suandok Vegetarian
This tiny stall just west of the entrance to Wat Suan Dok offers a simple array of inexpensive, wholesome Thai vegetarian dishes and brown rice.
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Talat Somphet
This market sells cheap takeaway curries, yam , lâap (spicy minced-meat salad), thâwt man (fried fish cakes), sweets and seafood.
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Talat Warorot
In the upstairs section are a number of basic stalls for khâo tôm (rice soup), khâo man kài (chicken rice), khâo mǔu daeng ('red' pork with rice), jóhk (thick rice soup) and khâo sawy , with tables overlooking the market floor. It's not the best cooking in Chiang Mai by a long shot, but it's cheap. A set of vendors on the ground floor specialise in inexpensive noodles - this area is particularly popular.
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The Wok
Run by the Chiang Mai Cookery School, this popular place is set in a covered outside eating area with pretty lanterns. It serves a selection of veggie dishes and is especially good on northern Thai cuisine. If you are thinking of doing their cookery course, come here first to get an idea of the kind of dishes you'll be making.
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UN Irish Pub
This 'pub' offers comfort food like jacket potatoes, fresh bread and good coffee. There is beer on tap, and fruit and vegetable juices. The homey indoor section is decorated with Irish kitsch and there's pleasant garden seating out the back.
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Vegetarian Centre of Chiang Mai
Sponsored by the Asoke Foundation, an ascetically minded Buddhist movement, the long-running Vegetarian Centre serves extremely inexpensive but very good cafeteria-style veg - you push a tray along a rack and point out what you want.
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Wawee Coffee
Want to go where the hip Thai's go? Head to Soi 9 in the trendy Nimmanhaemin area and drink coffee amongst the fashionable, laptop tapping locals. There's a pretty outside area with a fountain, while inside it's contemporary and air-conditioned. Don't get this one mixed up with Wawee Coffee on the main road.
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Whole Earth Restaurant
Set in a teak house, there is the option to sit outside on the 2nd-floor terrace, or inside with air-con. The food here is well presented Thai and Indian (both vegetarian and nonvegetarian). The atmosphere is suitably mellow, as are the toned-down flavours.
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Yok Fa
This simple but popular place cooks up fresh food in the massive woks upfront. Try pat see lew (fried wide noodles with pork, soybean sauce, morning glory and egg) or the suckling pig and rice.
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Zest
Sitting in a pukka position in front of the Top North Hotel, this funky alfresco café has the usual Thai and European menu. It's a good place to watch the world of Chiang Mai go by.
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