Sri Mariamman Temple

Arrestingly flamboyant, Sri Mariamman is a Hindu temple that is a wild collision of colours, shapes and deities. Built in the 1860s by Tamil immigrants, the principal temple features a 6m facade of intertwined, full-colour Hindu deities. The main shrine of Sri Mariamman contains three supremes: Jao Mae Maha Umathewi (Uma Devi; also known as Shakti, Shiva’s consort) at the centre; her son Phra Khanthakuman (Khanthakumara or Subramaniam) on the right; and her elephant-headed son Phra Phikkhanesawora (Ganesha) on the left. Along the left interior wall sit rows of Shivas, Vishnus and other Hindu deities, as well as a few Buddhas. While most of the people working in the temple hail from the Indian subcontinent, you will likely see plenty of Thai and Chinese devotees praying here as well. This is because the Hindu gods figure just as prominently in their individualistic approach to religion. The official Thai name of the temple is Wat Phra Si Maha Umathewi, but sometimes it is shortened to its colloquial name Wat Khaek – kàak is a common expression for people of Indian descent. The literal translation is ‘guest’, an obvious euphemism for any group of people not particularly wanted as permanent residents; hence most Indian Thais don’t appreciate the term.