-
Assumption Cathedral
Marking the ascendancy of the French missionary influence in Bangkok during the reign of Rama II, this Romanesque church with its rich golden interior dates from 1910 and hosted a mass by Pope John Paul II in 1984. The schools associated with the cathedral are considered some of the best in Thailand, and you'll probably need to walk through one to reach the red-brick building.
-
Baiyoke Ii Tower
Thailand's tallest tower, if not its most architecturally attractive, the Baiyoke II tower soars to 88 storeys, the upper of which are often clad with some truly huge advertising. The main, and indeed the only, attraction here is the 77th floor observation deck. The views are as impressive as you'd expect (unless its too smoggy) but only just compensate for the tacky décor and uninspiring restaurant. If you have a choice, the rooftop bars are better.
-
Baiyoke Sky Tower
It's a bird; it's a crane; no, it's the Baiyoke Sky Hotel, the nation's tallest scraper, measuring a gangly 88 storeys (309m tall). On the 84th floor is a revolving observation deck, something akin to a geriatric carnival ride. This is the only sky-high perch in Bangkok geared towards families.
-
Bank Of Asia
During the crazy 1980s, when no building project was too outlandish or expensive, architect Sumet Jumsai created his now-famous 'Robot Building' for the Bank of Asia. Few were keen on it at the time, but now it seems quaint and retro. The building is not open to the public; its whimsical façade is best viewed on the Skytrain between Surasak and Chong Nonsi stations.
-
Chulalongkorn University
The centrepiece of the campus is the promenade ground on the east side of Th Phayathai where a seated statue of Rama V (King Chulalongkorn) is surrounded by purple bougainvillea and offerings of pink carnations. The showcase buildings display the architectural fusion the monarch favoured, a mix of Italian revival and Thai traditional. The campus has a parklike quality, with noble tropical trees considerately labelled for plant geeks.
-
Church Of Santa Cruz
Centuries before Sukhumvit became the international district, the Portuguese claimed faràng (Western) supremacy and built the Church of Santa Cruz in the 1700s. The land was a gift from King Taksin in appreciation for the loyalty the Portuguese community had displayed after the fall of Ayuthaya. The surviving church dates to 1913. Very little activity occurs on the grounds itself, but small village streets break off from the main courtyard into the area known as Kuti Jiin.
-
Democracy Monument
Four-pronged Democracy Monument holds a key place in Bangkok's political history. Built to commemorate the nation's transition from absolute monarchy to constitutional monarchy in 1932, the monument is the natural home of pro-democracy rallies, including the tragic demonstrations of 1992 that turned bloody at the hands of the military.
-
Holy Rosary Church
Portuguese seafarers were among the first Europeans to establish diplomatic ties with Siam and their influence in the kingdom was rewarded with prime riverside real estate. When a Portuguese contingent moved across the river to the present-day Talat Noi district of Chinatown in 1787 they were given this piece of land and built the Holy Rosary Church, known in Thai as Wat Kalawan, from the Portuguese 'Calvario'. Over the years the Portuguese community dispersed and the church fell into disrepair.
-
Hualamphong Railway Station
At the southeastern edge of Chinatown, Bangkok's main train station was built by Dutch architects and engineers just before WWI. It is one of the city's earliest and most outstanding examples of the movement towards Thai Art Deco. If you can zone out of the chaos for a moment, look for the vaulted iron roof and neoclassical portico that were a state-of-the-art engineering feat, and the patterned, two-toned skylights that exemplify pure de Stijl Dutch modernism.
-
Kukrit Pramoj House
Author and statesman Mom Ratchawong Kukrit Pramoj once resided in this charming complex now open to the public for tours. Surrounded by a manicured garden, five teak buildings introduce visitors to traditional Thai architecture and to the former resident, who wrote more than 150 books (including the highly respected Four Reigns ) and served as prime minister of Thailand.
-
Advertisement
-
October 14 Memorial
A peaceful amphitheatre commemorates the civilian demonstrators who were killed on 14 October 1973 by the military during a rally. Over 200,000 people assembled at the Democracy Monument and along the length of Th Ratchadamnoen to protest against the arrest of political campaigners & continuing military dictatorship. More than 70 demonstrators were killed when the tanks met the crowd. The complex is an interesting adaptation of Thai temple architecture for a secular & political purpose.
-
Old Customs House
The Old Customs House was once the gateway to Thailand, levying taxes on traders moving in and out of the kingdom. Designed by an Italian architect and built in the 1880s, the front door opened onto its source of income (the river) and the grand façade was ceremoniously decorated in columns and transom windows. Today it's a crumbling yet hauntingly beautiful home to the fire brigade, with sagging shutters, peeling colonial yellow paint and laundry flapping on the unpainted balconies.
-
Phayathai Palace
West of the Victory Monument roundabout, Phayathai Palace was built by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) in 1909 as a cottage for retreats into what was then the country. The surviving throne hall, encased in French glass doors and a fanciful tiered roof, is now part of a hospital complex and is open to the public. The grounds are open at other times. There isn't much in the way of tourist displays but it's worth it to survey the architecture of the buildings and escape the sightseeing masses.
-
Robot Building
During the crazy '80s, when no building project was too outlandish or expensive, architect Sumet Jumsai created his now-famous 'robot building' for the Bank of Asia (now owned by United Overseas Bank). Few were keen on it at the time, but now it seems quaint and retro. It is best viewed from the Surasak Skytrain platform.
-
San Jao Sien Khong
One of the city's oldest Chinese shrines, guarded by a playful rooftop terracotta dragon. A former owner of the shrine made his fortune collecting taxes on bird-nest delicacies.
-
Silpakorn University
Thailand's universities aren't usually repositories for interesting architecture, but the country's premier art school breaks the mould. Partly housed in a former palace, the classical buildings form the charming nucleus of what was an early Thai aristocratic enclave and the traditional temperament still survives. The building immediately facing the Th Na Phra Lan gate was once part of a palace and now houses the Silpakorn University Art Centre, which showcases faculty and student exhibitions.
-
Sri Gurusingh Sabha
A gold-domed Sikh temple best viewed from Soi ATM. Basically it's a large hall, somewhat reminiscent of a mosque interior, devoted to the worship of the Guru Granth Sahib, the 16th-century Sikh holy book, which is itself considered the last of the religion's 10 great gurus. Prasada (blessed food offered to Hindu or Sikh temple attendees) is distributed among devotees every morning, and if you arrive on a Sikh festival day you can partake in the langar (communal Sikh meal) served in the temple.
-
Thanon Maharat
The northern stretch of this street is one of Bangkok's most interesting. On the opposite side of Wat Mahathat's whitewashed walls, the street is monopolised by ancient Thai industries. In the cool season, medicinal bowls of ginger-infused broth are sold from steaming cauldrons to stave off winter colds. Outdoor displays of pill bottles are lined up and dusted daily like prized antiques. Each remedy bears a picture of a stoic healer, a marketing pitch that puts a human face on medicine.
-
Victory Monument
A busy traffic circle revolves around this obelisk that commemorates a 1939 Thai victory against the French in Laos. An elevated walkway circumnavigates the roundabout, funnelling the pedestrian traffic in and out of the Skytrain station as well as providing a gathering spot for breakdancers, flirting gangs of guys and gals, and lots of fashion experiments.
-
Wat Arun
The precursor to modern skyscrapers, this Khmer-style temple dominates the river landscape like an ancient military installation. Up close, the masculine monument is decorated in delicate mosaic details and marks the re-emergence of the Thai capital after the Burmese invasion in the 18th century.
-
Advertisement
-
Wat Benchamabophit
Buddha image buffs find Wat Benchamabophit fascinating. Known as the 'Marble Temple' (it's made of white Carrara marble), it has a collection of 53 Buddha images in different figures and styles. It was built during Rama V's reign (the temple's central Buddha image contains his ashes) and its cruciform bòt (central chapel) is a pure example of contemporary wat architecture.
-
Wat Bowonniwet
Home to the Buddhist Mahamakut University, this royally affiliated monastery is the national headquarters of the Thammayut sect of Thai Buddhism. It may be in the midst of ultra-casual Banglamphu but Bowonniwet is where the present king was ordained. Visitors must dress appropriately.
-
Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace
The Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew) gleams and glitters with so much colour and glory that its earthly foundations seem barely able to resist the celestial pull. Architecturally fantastic, the temple complex is also the spiritual core of Thai Buddhism and the monarchy, symbolically united in what is the country's most holy image, the Emerald Buddha. Attached to the temple complex is the former royal residence, once a sealed city of intricate ritual and social stratification.
-
Wat Prayoon
Near the old Portuguese quarter in Thonburi, beside Memorial Bridge, is this unusual temple complex. An artificial hill, built under the orders of Rama III, is littered with curious miniature shrines, and little temples. Fruit vendors sell snacks for children to feed to the resident turtles.
-
Wat Ratchabophit
Commissioned by Rama V soon after he came to the throne, this beautiful temple is decorated with Chinese porcelain. European influences are reasonably strong, too - look at the uniforms of the carved guards on the door.
