Wat Saket & Golden Mount

Lonely Planet review

Before glass and steel towers began growing out of the flat monotony of Bangkok's riverine plain, the massive Golden Mount (Phu Khao Thong) was the only structure to make any significant impression on the horizon. At the eastern entrance to Banglamphu, the mount was commissioned by Rama III. He ordered that the earth that was dug out to create Bangkok's expanding khlong network be piled up to build an enormous, 100m-high, 500m-wide chedi.

As the hill grew, however, the weight became too much for the soft soil beneath and the project was abandoned until Rama IV built a small gilded chedi on its crest and added trees to stave off erosion. Rama V later added to the structure and interred a Buddha relic from India (given to him by the British government) in the chedi . The concrete walls were added during WWII.

Today serpentine steps wind through gnarled trees, past small tombstones and up to two platforms that afford panoramic views across the city. At the topmost level Thais pray to a central Buddha shrine and test their fortune at a shrine to the Chinese goddess of mercy, Kuan Im. Make a small donation then shake the numbered siem see sticks until one falls to the floor. The piece of paper with the corresponding number gives a no-nonsense appraisal of your future in Thai, English and Chinese. It's a fun diversion, but hopefully you receive a more positive prognosis than ours, which included, 'Lost items could never be recovered. Illness condition unfavourable. No lucks. Should be careful.' Well great! At least we now know that: 'Forthcoming child shall be baby girl.' When Thais are the subject of such a dire forecast (ahm, try not to shake out stick number 10) they burn it on the spot (the fortune, not the stick), or at least leave it at the temple.

If your fortune is so disturbing you feel the need to seek assistance from a higher power, it's comforting to know that peaceful Wat Saket is just next door. In November the grounds host a festival that includes an enchanting candlelight procession up the Golden Mount, and a similar procession is held at Makha Bucha in February.