Phra Sumen Fort & Santichaiprakan Park

Lonely Planet review

Beside Mae Nam Chao Phraya in Banglamphu stands one of Bangkok's original 18th-century forts. Built in 1783 to defend against potential naval invasions & named for the mythical Mt Meru (Phra Sumen in Thai) of Hindu-Buddhist cosmology, the octagonal brick-and-stucco bunker was one of 14 city watchtowers that punctuated the old city wall alongside Khlong Rop Krung (now Khlong Banglamphu but still called Khlong Rop Krung on most signs). Apart from Mahakan Fort, this is the only one still standing.

Alongside the fort and fronting the river is a small, grassy park with an open-air pavilion, river views, cool breezes and a Bohemian mix of alternative young Thais and backpackers, the latter often wearing fisherman pants and trying to learn the current backpacking fad of twirling fire sticks. It's an interesting place to sit, people-watch and see what are said to be the last two lamphu trees in Banglamphu.

From the park a walkway zigzags south along the river - and in some cases is suspended right over it - from the fort all the way to Saphan Phra Pin Klao. Follow this walk and along the way you can catch glimpses of some of Th Phra Athit's classic old Ratanakosin-style mansions that are not visible from the street, including those housing parts of the Buddhist Society of Thailand and the UN's Food & Agriculture Organization.