Thammasat University

Lonely Planet review

Much of the drama that followed Thailand's transition from monarchy to democracy has unfolded on this quiet riverside campus. Thammasat University was established in 1934, two years after the bloodless coup that deposed the monarchy. Its remit was to instruct students in law and political economy, considered to be the intellectual necessities for an educated democracy.

The university was founded by Dr Pridi Phanomyong, whose statue stands in Pridi Ct at the centre of the campus. Pridi was the leader of the civilian People's Party that successfully advocated a constitutional monarchy during the 1920s and '30s. He went on to serve in various ministries, organised the Seri Thai movement (a Thai resistance campaign against the Japanese during WWII) and was ultimately forced into exile when the postwar government was seized by a military dictatorship in 1947.

Pridi was unable to counter the dismantling of democrat reforms, but the university he established continued his crusade. Thammasat was the hotbed of prodemocracy activism during the student uprising era of the 1970s. On 14 October 1973 ( sìp-sìi tù-laa ) 10,000 protesters convened on the parade grounds beside the university's Memorial Building demanding the government reinstate the constitution. The military and police opened fire on the crowd, killing 77 and wounding 857. The massacre prompted the king to revoke his support of the military rulers and for a brief period a civilian government was reinstated. Thammasat was the site of more bloody protests on 6 October 1976 ( hòk tù-laa ), when at least 46 students were shot dead while rallying against the return from exile of former dictator Field Marshal Thanom Kittikachorn. A plaque on the parade grounds commemorates these events.

Walk south from Th Phra Athit in Banglamphu and you'll go straight through Thammasat, emerging at the south end near Tha Chang pier.