Wat Suthat

Lonely Planet review

Wat Suthat's truly remarkable Buddha image, acres of colourful murals and - during most of the year - relative tranquillity make it arguably the most attractive of all of Bangkok's Buddhist temples. The main attraction is Thailand's largest wíhǎan (main chapel). Set inside a large cloister that is itself lined with gilded Buddha images, it houses the 8m-high Phra Si Sakayamuni, Thailand's largest surviving Sukhothai-period bronze.

In 1808 it was retrieved from Sukhothai and floated on a barge down the Mae Nam Chao Phraya to be installed in this temple and serve as both the centre of Bangkok and a representation of Mt Meru, the mythical centre of the universe. Today the ashes of Rama VIII (King Ananda Mahidol, the current king's older brother; r 1935-46) are contained in the base of the image.

The colourful, if now somewhat faded, Jataka (murals depicting scenes from the Buddha's life) cover every wall and pillar; see how many crabs (or crab claws) you can find, and not just in the murals. The deep-relief wooden doors are also impressive and were carved by artisans including Rama II himself.

Behind the wíhǎan, and accessed via a separate entrance on Th Burapha, the ordination hall is the largest in the country. Wat Suthat holds the rank of Rachavoramahavihan, the highest royal temple grade, and maintains a special place in the national religion because of its association with the Brahman priests who perform important ceremonies, such as the Royal Ploughing Ceremony in May. These priests also perform religious rites at two Hindu shrines near the wat - the Thewa Sathaan (Devi Mandir) on Th Siri Phong, and the smaller Saan Jao Phitsanu (Vishnu Shrine) on Th Din So. The former shrine contains images of Shiva and Ganesha while the latter is dedicated to Vishnu.