Sanam Luang

Lonely Planet review

On a hot day, Sanam Luang (Royal Field) is far from charming - a shadeless expanse of dying grass ringed by flocks of pigeons and homeless people. Despite its shabby appearance, though, it has been at the centre of both royal ceremony and political upheaval since Bangkok was founded. Indeed, the yellow-shirted masses who protested for months before Thaksin Shinawatra was ousted in a coup d'état often used this field to air their grievances.

Less dramatic events staged here include the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, in which the king (or more recently the Crown Prince) officially initiates the rice-growing season. After the rains, the kite-flying season (mid-February to April) sees the open space filled with butterfly-shaped Thai kites. Matches are held between teams flying either a 'male' or 'female' kite in a particular territory; points are won if they can force a competitor into their zone.

Large funeral pyres are constructed here during elaborate, but infrequent, royal cremations.

In a way the park is suffering a career crisis, having lost most of its full-time employment to other locales or the whims of fashion. Until 1982 Bangkok's famous Weekend Market was regularly held here (it's now at Chatuchak Park). Previously the wealthy came here for imported leisure sports; these days they head for the country club. Today the cool mornings and evenings still attract a health-conscious crowd of joggers, walkers and groups playing tàkrâw . If you fancy a big-crowd experience, Sanam Luang draws the masses in December for the King's Birthday (December 5), Constitution Day (December 10) and New Year.

Across Th Ratchadamnoen to the east is the statue of Mae Thorani, the earth goddess (borrowed from Hindu mythology's Dharani), which stands in a white pavilion. Erected in the late 19th century by Rama V, the statue was originally attached to a well that provided drinking water to the public.