Australian chef-author David Thompson is behind what is quite possibly the best Thai restaurant in Bangkok. Using ancient cookbooks as his inspiration, Thompson has given new life to previously extinct dishes such as smoked fish curry with prawns, chicken livers, cockles and black pepper. Dinner takes the form of a multicourse set meal, while lunch means kà·nŏm jeen, thin rice noodles served with curries. If you’re expecting bland, gentrified Thai food meant for foreigners, prepare to be disappointed. Reservations recommended.