Things to do in Ranong Province
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Paradise Behind the Sea Restaurant
If you're cruising the east coast for scenery, stop in for a view and a meal at this cliffside restaurant. Vietnamese and Thai dishes crowd the tables and cool breezes provide refreshment. In Thai, this is called 'Lang Talay'.
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Ao Khlong Prao
A relaxed counterpoint to Hat Sai Khao's energy, Khlong Prao's beach is a pretty sweep of sand pinned between hulking mountainous headlands and bisected by two estuaries. At low tide, beachcombers stroll the rippled sand eyeing the critters left naked by the receding water. Sprawling luxury resorts dominate Khlong Prao and the primary pastime is sunbathing at seaside pools since high tide tends to gobble up most of the beach.
With hired transport, you can depart the beach for some waterfall-spotting. The island's biggest is Nam Tok Khlong Plu, a three-tiered cascade with a swimmable pool. It is reached via a 600m jungle path and is most stunning just after the rainy season…
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Ao Salak Kok
From a hotel developers' perspective, this thick tangle of mangroves is an unprofitable wasteland. But the local population of fisherfolk recognises that its beauty and profit is in its environmental fertility. Mangroves are the ocean's nurseries, fostering the next generation of marine species as well as resident birds and crustaceans.
Thanks to its natural state, the bay is now Ko Chang's leading example of ecotourism. Villagers, working in conjunction with Khun Pittaya, of Ban Kwan Chang elephant park, operate an award-winning program to preserve the environment and the traditional way of life. They rent kayaks through the Salak Kok Kayak Station and run an affiliated…
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Bailan Bay Resort Restaurant
Our taxi driver recommended this hilltop restaurant south of Lonely Beach that serves spicy sôm·đam with a view.
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Ban Bang Bao
Nearly at the end of the west coast road, Bang Bao is a former fishing community built in the traditional fashion of interconnected piers. The villagers have swapped their nets for the tourist trade by renting out portions of their homes to souvenir shops and restaurants. Though it isn't a traditional experience, the resulting commercialism is extremely Thai, much like a mainland market with every possible space dedicated to selling something. Follow the pier all the way to the end and you'll find a big blue ocean and boats waiting to take you past the horizon. Most visitors come for a seafood meal and some decide to stay overnight. Wrap up your visit before sunset as…
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Ban Kwan Chang
In a beautiful forested setting, this camp offers a quiet and intimate experience with its nine resident elephants. A one-hour visit (900B) involves feeding, bathing and riding an elephant and hotel transfer is included. Be sure to wear mozzie spray.
Pittaya Homkrailas is the camp owner and a well-regarded conservation enthusiast who works to preserve a humane relationship between the elephant and mahout. His interest in environmental and community issues also includes efforts to preserve the southeastern mangroves in Ao Salak Kok on the island's east coast.
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Barrio Bonito
This breezy, hip place has all the island raving about its seriously good Mexican fare. A French-Mexican couple runs the place with flair and there's a plunge pool should the salsa induce sweating.
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Hat Kaibae
A companion beach to Khlong Prao, Hat Kaibae is a great spot for families and thirty-something couples. A slim strip of sand unfurls around an island-dotted bay far enough removed from the package tour scene that you'll feel self-righteously independent. There's kayaking to the outlying island and low tide provides hours of beachcombing.
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Hat Kai Mook (Pearl Beach)
The pearls here are large pebbles that pack the shore and culminate in fish-friendly headlands. Swimming and sunbathing are out but there's good snorkelling. The stylish restaurant Saffron by the Sea is a scenic perch should you prefer to wet your palette instead.
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Hat Sai Khao (White Sand Beach)
The longest, most luxurious stole of sand on the island is packed with package-tour hotels and serious sunbathers. Finding a blanket's-worth of sand can be tough during the high season, unless you wait until the hot hours of the afternoon or hike past KC Grande Resort towards the remarkably low-key backpacker area in the far northern section of the beach. Along the main road, the village is busy, loud and brash – but the extremities provide a convenient break.
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Iyara Seafood
Iyara isn't your standard island seafood warehouse: after dining in the lovely bamboo pavilion, guests are invited to kayak along the nearby estuary.
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Jammy Bar
The indoor-outdoor garden is vaguely Balinese and is the best-looking dining area in town. Luckily the food is great too: the Thai dishes are fantastic as are the stranger choices including grilled ostrich (229B) or local beef (129B). There's live music on weekend nights.
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Jungle Way Restaurant
Enjoy the natural setting and home-style cooking of this guest house restaurant. Meal preparation takes a leisurely pace so climb up to the elevated wildlife-viewing platform to spot some jungle creatures while the wok is sizzling.
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KaTi Culinary
This popular Thai cooking school is equally popular for its attached restaurant. Apart from Thai dishes, on the menu are also creative smoothies, such as lychee, lemon and peppermint.
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KayakChang
For more serious paddlers, KayakChang rents high-end, closed-top kayaks (from 1000B per day) that handle better and travel faster. They also lead one- and multi-day trips to other islands in the archipelago.
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Khlong Kloi
At the eastern end of Ao Bang Bao, Khlong Kloi is a sandy beach that feels a lot like a secret though there are other people here and all the requisite amenities (beer, fruit, food, massage) and a few guest houses if you want the place to yourself. You'll need private transport to get out here.
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Koh Chang Animal Project
Abused, injured or abandoned animals receive medical care and refuge at this nonprofit centre, established in 2002 by American Lisa McAlonie. The centre also works with local people on spaying, neutering and general veterinarian services, and Lisa is well-known on the island by concerned pet owners and flea-ridden dogs. Volunteers, especially travelling vets and vet nurses, are welcome to donate a bit of TLC and elbow grease for the cause. Call to make an appointment. Most sŏrng·tăa·ou drivers know how to get here; tell them you're going to 'Ban Lisa' (Lisa's House) in Khlong Son.
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Koh Chang Pony Rehabilitation Project
On the same street as Ban Lisa, this centre works to rescue and rehabilitate abused and neglected equines. Volunteers can help feed, clean and exercise the ponies and horses that are recovering from injuries or awaiting adoption in caring environments.
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Koh Chang Trekking
Bird-watchers should contact Koh Chang Trekking which runs one- and two-day trips (1000B to 2000B) into the national park and hikes to the top of Khao Chom Prasat, two nearby rocky tipped peaks.
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Lonely Beach
The island's backpacker hang-out is the five-o'clock shadow of beaches, a bit scruffy but ready for fun. During the day, most sunbathers are baking off a hangover earned the night before when Lonely Beach becomes the most social place on the island. The music is loud, the drinks are strong and the crowd is youthful and carefree.
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Magic Garden
Magic Garden is a pagoda to Lonely Beach's special variety of chill-laxin'. Grab some grub, polish off some Beer Changs, watch a movie and then wander down to the beach for some DJ beats.
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Nid's Kitchen
A sweaty little restaurant north of GajaPuri Resort, Auntie Nid's does all the Thai standards like a wok wizard. Plus the beers are cold.
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Norng Bua
This popular stir-fry hut makes everything fast and fresh and with chillies and fish sauce (praise the culinary gods).
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Porn's Bungalows Restaurant
This wooden tree-house restaurant affiliated with a Rasta-style guest house is the quintessential beachside lounge. Feel free to have your drinks outsize your meal and don't worry about dressing for dinner.
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Saffron on the Sea
Owned by an arty escapee from Bangkok, this friendly boutique hotel has a generous portion of oceanfront dining and a relaxed, romantic atmosphere. All the Thai dishes are prepared in the island-style, more sweet than spicy.
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