Sights in Ranong Province
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Ko Rang
By far the best diving in the region is in and around Ko Rang. Protected from fishing by its marine park status, this place has some of the most pristine coral in Thailand. Visibility is much better than Ko Chang and averages between 10m and 20m.
Ko Yak and Ko Laun are both shallow dives perfect for both beginners and advanced divers. These two small rocky islands can be circumnavigated and have loads of coral, schooling fish, rays, morays, barracuda, puffer fish and the occasional turtle.
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Hat Bang Ben
The most accessible beach in the park is Hat Bang Ben, where the park headquarters are. This long, sandy beach, backed by shady casuarinas, is said to be safe for swimming year-round. From Hat Bang Ben you can see several islands, including the nearby Ko Kam Yai, Ko Kam Noi, Mu Ko Yipun, Ko Khang Khao and, to the north, Ko Phayam. The park staff can arrange boat trips out to any of these islands. During low tide you can walk to an island just a couple of hundred metres from Hat Bang Ben.
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Laem Son National Park
The Leam Son National Park covers 315 sq km of land shared by Ranong and Phang-Nga Provinces, it also includes around 100km of Andaman Sea coastline –the longest protected shore in the country –as well as over 20 idyllic islets. Much of the coast here is covered with mangrove swamps, home to various species of birds, fish, deer and monkeys (including crab-eating macaques), often seen while you’re driving along the road to the park headquarters.
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Nam Tok Khiri Phet
This small waterfall, 2km from Ban Salak Phet, is a 15-minute walk from the road and rewards you with a small, deep plunge pool. It's usually quieter than many of the larger falls and is easily reached if you're in the neighbourhood of Ao Salak Phet.
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Ban Salak Phet
In the southeast pocket of the island is Ban Salak Phet, a surprisingly bustling Thai community of fisherfolk and merchants plus lots of bike-riding kids and yawning dogs. This is what most of Ko Chang looked like less than a generation ago. Just beyond the commercial heart of the village is Ao Salak Phet, a beautiful blue bay serenely guarded by humpbacked islands. Most visitors come for the seafood restaurants or to cruise the lonely byways for a secluded beach.
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Ko Phayam
Ko Phayam has plenty of places to stay and is a friendly, demure little island. It has only a few hundred inhabitants, mostly Thais and Burmese, with a smattering of expats and a few dozen chow lair (sea gypsies) thrown into the mix. Tourists congregate on the island's pretty beaches, but locals support themselves prawn fishing, cashew-nut farming or working on the rubber plantations. Interesting fauna in the area includes wild pigs, hornbills, monkeys and snakes.
There's one 'village' on the island, where you will find the main pier, a couple of simple eateries, some small grocery stalls and a bar. From the pier area, motorcycle taxis scoot you to the bungalow operations…
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Nai Khai Ranong
Nai Khai Ranong is the former home of Koh Su Chiang, a Hokkien who became governor of Ranong during the reign of King Rama V. These days, it is a combination clan house (clubhouse for Chinese who share the same surname) and shrine. It's on the northern edge of town and is worth a peep.
Of the three original buildings, one still stands and is filled with mementos of the Koh family's glory days. The main gate and part of the original wall also remain.
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Wat Hat Som Paen
The village of Hat Som Paen is a former tin-mining community. At Wat Hat Som Paen visitors feed fruit to the huge Ъlah ploo·ang (black carp) in the temple stream. The faithful believe these carp are actually tair·wá·dah, a type of angel, and it's forbidden to catch and eat them. Legend has it that those who do will contract leprosy.
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Ranong Mineral Hot Springs
Ranong Mineral Hot Springs offers pools hot enough to boil an egg (65°C). Like the three bears of Goldilocks fame, the names of the three springs translate as Father Spring, Mother Spring and Baby Spring, and each has its own distinct smell (all horrid). The spring water is thought to be sacred, as well as having miraculous healing powers.
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Ban Kwan Elephant Camp
This is one of only a couple of places in the region where you can straddle one of these gentle giants and wander for awhile. The camp takes in elephants that have outlived their working usefulness and lets them live out their days close to nature. A 90-minute 'experience' involves feeding, bathing and of course, an elephant ride.
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Ko Khang Khao
Ko Khang Khao is known for a beach on its northern end, which is covered with colourful pebbles. Although underwater visibility isn't great around the island, it's a little better than on Ko Chang as it's further from the mouth of the Mae Nam Chan.
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Nam Tok Punyaban
Nam Tok Punyaban is a well-known waterfall within walking distance of Hwy 4. Just take a sŏrng·tăa·ou (small pickup truck) and ask to be let off at the nám đòk (waterfall).
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Nam Tok Ngao
Nam Tok Ngao is a well-known waterfall within walking distance of Hwy 4. Just take a sŏrng·tăa·ou (small pickup truck) and ask to be let off at the nám đòk (waterfall).
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Bailan Herbal Sauna
Set amidst verdant greenery, you can sweat inside this round adobe sauna as long as you like, with a number of different herbal concoctions to choose from. They also offer massage and facial treatments. Pure bliss!
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Hat Praphat
About 50km south of Hat Bang Ben, is Hat Praphat, very similar to Bang Ben with casuarinas and a long beach. There is a second park office here, which can be reached by road via Hwy 4 (Petchkasem Hwy).
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Ko Kam Noi
The beach on Ko Kam Noi has relatively clear water for swimming and snorkelling (April is the best month), plus the added bonus of fresh water year-round and plenty of grassy areas for camping.
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Ko Kam Tok
One island on the other side of Ko Kam Yai is Ko Kam Tok. It's only about 200m from Ko Kam Yai, and, like Ko Kam Noi, has a good beach, coral, fresh water and a camping ground.
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Hat Laem Son
About 3km north of Hat Bang Ben, across the canal, is another beach, Hat Laem Son, which is almost always deserted. The only way to get here is to hike from Hat Bang Ben.
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Ko Kam Yai
Ko Kam Yai is 14km southwest of Hat Bang Ben. It's a large island with some accommodation (camping and bungalows), a pretty beach and great snorkelling.
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Koh Su Chiang's Mausoleum
Koh Su Chiang's Mausoleum is set into the side of a hill a few kilometres north of Nai Khai Ranong, on the road to Hat Chandamri.
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Laem Son National Park
The Leam Son National Park covers 315 sq km of land shared by Ranong and Phang-Nga Provinces, it also includes around 100km of Andaman Sea coastline –the longest protected shore in the country –as well as over 20 idyllic islets. Much of the coast here is covered with mangrove swamps, home to various species of birds, fish, deer and monkeys (including crab-eating macaques), often seen while you’re driving along the road to the park headquarters.
reviewed
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Lonely Beach
The island's backpacker hang-out is the five-o'clock shadow of beaches, a bit scruffy but ready for fun. During the day, most sunbathers are baking off a hangover earned the night before when Lonely Beach becomes the most social place on the island. The music is loud, the drinks are strong and the crowd is youthful and carefree.
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Khlong Kloi
At the eastern end of Ao Bang Bao, Khlong Kloi is a sandy beach that feels a lot like a secret though there are other people here and all the requisite amenities (beer, fruit, food, massage) and a few guest houses if you want the place to yourself. You'll need private transport to get out here.
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Hat Sai Khao (White Sand Beach)
The longest, most luxurious stole of sand on the island is packed with package-tour hotels and serious sunbathers. Finding a blanket's-worth of sand can be tough during the high season, unless you wait until the hot hours of the afternoon or hike past KC Grande Resort towards the remarkably low-key backpacker area in the far northern section of the beach. Along the main road, the village is busy, loud and brash – but the extremities provide a convenient break.
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Hat Kai Mook (Pearl Beach)
The pearls here are large pebbles that pack the shore and culminate in fish-friendly headlands. Swimming and sunbathing are out but there's good snorkelling. The stylish restaurant Saffron by the Sea is a scenic perch should you prefer to wet your palette instead.
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