Getting there & away
For an overview of transport along the Pamir Hwy see above.
One of the main attractions of Khorog is the flight in from Dushanbe (US$60), which, depending on your confidence in the pilots of Tajikistan Airlines, will be one of the most exhilarating or terrifying experiences of your life. For the best views of Afghanistan sit on the right-hand side when flying from Dushanbe. Baggage allowance is 10kg; excess is 1% of the air ticket per 1kg.
Flights originate in Dushanbe and, in theory, run daily but they are grounded at the first sign of bad weather (which is frequent outside of the summer months). Passengers must then take their chances the next day, tussling for seats with those already booked on that flight. It can happen that, after a run of bad weather, hundreds turn up to fight for the first flight’s 40 available seats. The bottom line is that you budget an extra day or two into your itinerary in case flights are cancelled and be prepared to travel overland if need be.
The airstrip is 3km west of town and taxis run to the centre.