Introducing Bartang Valley
The stark and elemental Bartang Valley is one of the wildest and most beautiful in the western Pamirs and offers a fine opportunity for an adventurous multiday 4WD adventure. At times the fragile road is only perilously inches between the raging river below and sheer cliffs above. Only the occasional fertile alluvial plain brings a flash of green to the barren rock walls.
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The road into the Bartang branches off the main road to Dushanbe, just before the village of Rushan, 61km from Khorog. After the village of Yemts, famous for its musicians, look for the footbridge that marks the start of the wonderful hike up the Geisev Valley . A further 9km up the main valley is the village of Khidjef, which offers more hiking routes.
The lovely village of Basid, 50km further, boasts two shrines (tourists can’t visit the upper one) and scenic forests 5km up a side valley. It’s a good place to overnight.
About 9km from Basid, it’s worth taking the very rough side road 9km up to Bardara, at the junction of two gorgeous valleys. The hospitable village has two ancient shrines and foot trails lead up to summer pastures and over high passes to Bachor. Ask to see the village khalodelnik (fridge).
The road to Savnob switches back high up the valley side and then down into a protected bowl. The ruined fort (used as a village toilet) and the hillside caves here served as protection against raids by Afghans, Kyrgyz or the neighbouring valley of Yazgulom. The village of Roshorv, high above the valley, is another possible detour. From Savnob the road continues to the start of trekking routes near Ghudara.
Up a side valley are the villages of Nisar and Barchadiev, which is the trailhead for treks up to Sarez . You’ll need a permit to hike beyond Barchadiev.
Last updated: Feb 17, 2009
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