Must-see restaurants in Tajikistan

  • Traktir Konservator

    Dushanbe

    In an unprepossessing alley near the Opera House, this surprisingly atmospheric restaurant is a treat both in terms of its rural Russian decor (think…

  • Rudaki Restaurant

    Dushanbe

    Offering a full à la carte menu in addition to an excellent buffet selection, the Rudaki Restaurant at the Serena Hotel is a popular choice for a…

  • Sayokhat

    Tajikistan

    Penjikent's most imaginative eatery, this eccentric wooden structure boasts timber stairways and cosy booths and is festooned with traditional artefacts…

  • Delhi Darbar

    The Pamir Highway

    This is the most popular meeting place in Khurog, largely perhaps because it's exciting to find anyone even attempting to offer Indian cuisine in such a…

  • Chaykhona Rokhat

    Dushanbe

    This grand Soviet-era, Persian-style, open-sided chaikhana (teahouse) is the Dushanbe classic – a great place to sip tea, slurp a bowl of noodles or enjoy…

  • Stolovaya

    The Pamir Highway

    Right beside the Ak-Balyk (White Fish) spring near the Km840 marker on the Pamir Hwy, an enterprising cook has set up a lonely shop selling delicious…

  • Chaykhana Parinen

    The Pamir Highway

    Deservedly popular for pre-prepared lunches, manty (steamed meat dumplings), shashlyk and chilled flagons of kompot (fruit cordial), this extensive,…

  • Lal Cafe

    The Pamir Highway

    Attached to Lal Hotel and with access to the seating pavilion in the hotel garden, this fun, bright cafe is decorated with traditional patterns, and…

  • Serena Inn Restaurant

    The Pamir Highway

    This small upmarket restaurant sports tables with white linen and side plates, and the outdoor tables on the terrace overlook an attractive riverside…

  • Shomi Khulob

    The Pamir Highway

    This excellent lunch stop, by the statue of Shamsiddin Shohein and unpromisingly in the forecourt of an NFC petrol station, offers delicious local and…

  • Obi-Togmat

    Tajikistan

    Around 20km west of Ayni, this characterful roadside teahouse has capitalised on the mountain water that rushes through the premises. Cauldrons of chicken…

  • Omar Khayan

    Tajikistan

    Delicious Georgian cuisine is served from the decorated interior of this upmarket restaurant, and the bar in the corner offers a pre-dinner rendezvous…

  • Café Safina

    Tajikistan

    This popular meeting point has menus (unlike most chaikhanas), curtained booth seats and a large outdoor terrace on the street made cheerful with fresh…

  • Oriyona

    The Pamir Highway

    Beside the central bridge in Kalai-Khum are a pair of restaurants each perched above the swirling blue waters. With its Zoroastrian logo and smart…

  • Marco Polo

    Dushanbe

    This fun little venue, designed as an odd combination of stalactite-filled cavern with covered tables and cloth serviettes, provides a cool spot on a hot…

  • Izum

    Dushanbe

    Local fabrics and piled cushions lend an exotic aura to this trend-setting restaurant, with its intimate booths and hubble-bubble bar. The tablet menus…

  • Morning Star Café

    Dushanbe

    With a menu of choices popular among homesick travellers and resident expats, this welcoming cafe serves good locally roasted coffee, cakes, wraps and…

  • Lola Teahouse

    Tajikistan

    In a leafy haven opposite the bazaar, this highly popular restaurant offers a particularly recommended plov. Other local dishes feature an abundance of…

  • Restaurant Murodi

    Tajikistan

    This pleasant restaurant set in a garden with daybeds and a fountain is near the new mosque north of the city centre. It serves a good plov and shashlyk…

  • Obod

    Tajikistan

    Behind a vine-fronted facade, eight tables are arranged around a central fountain pool in a shaded courtyard, making this a lovely choice for lunch or tea…

  • Café Ravshan

    Tajikistan

    This central semi-smart cafe features mirror-facet flowers and chequerboard couch seats. The kitchen serves great barbecues, particularly okaroshka …

  • Oriyol Teahouse

    Tajikistan

    This splendid traditional-style teahouse with wooden pillars and carved ceiling offers a range of local dishes for a dining experience that's a cut above…

  • Sary Osyo

    Dushanbe

    This simple family-run restaurant in a vine-covered yard attracts a local crowd at lunchtime hoping to dine on Dushanbe's best plov (pilaf).

  • Café Merve

    Dushanbe

    This hugely popular bustling cafeteria makes a lively spot for Turkish breakfasts, kebabs, pizza, salads, cakes and instant coffee (but no alcohol).

  • Taj Mahal

    Dushanbe

    A range of well-prepared Indian dishes, cooked by an Indian chef, is served at brightly clothed tables in this ever-popular central favourite.

  • Europa Supermarket

    The Pamir Highway

    A well-stocked modern shop handy for picking up supplies for the rest of the journey.

  • Khekhack Restaurant

    The Pamir Highway

    In the middle of the route between Kalai-Khum and Rushan, this popular lunch stop also attracts weary night-time truckers who ply the M41 across the…

  • Tarabkhonai Paymona

    Tajikistan

    Gharm's main restaurant is upstairs beside the Megafon office on the city's central block (diagonally across from the statue of Somoni). Kebabs, delicious…

  • Arirang

    Dushanbe

    The smell of garlic hints at the authentic Korean food offered behind the misleadingly dreary facade of Arirang. Ropes, manuscript panelling and bundles…

  • Puppet Kurutob

    Dushanbe

    This unmarked outdoor eatery with striped awning serves a tasty kurutob and attracts a steady stream of customers. It is tucked round the side of the…

  • Hojion Cafe

    The Pamir Highway

    Plov, dumplings and soup attract regulars at this diner with a point-and-select chart pinned outside. When it comes to sambusas, it gives the competition…

  • Mukhiddin

    Tajikistan

    This very popular bazaar chaikhana has fine views and specialises in breakfast options. The door directly right of the bazaar's main entrance leads to…

  • Bread shop

    Tajikistan

    For delicious, hot-baked bread straight from the tandor, stop by this unassuming bakery on the scenic way out of town (following the Isfara River along…

  • Barmasar Cafe

    The Pamir Highway

    A tidy little cafe by the bazaar and opposite Pamir Plaza, this is a handy place for a fast-food snack after shopping for supplies in the large…

  • Cafe Ayni

    Tajikistan

    The photographs of kebabs and burgers decorating the outside of this cheerful cafe dispense with the need for English. It's in the heart of the main…

  • Oshi Abdurahman

    Dushanbe

    One of several unassuming venues to try the locally popular dish kurutob and other cheap and cheerful dishes. Closed during Ramadan.

  • Aida

    The Pamir Highway

    At the edge of the bazaar, Aida offers dining in simple curtained booths. The sambusas are recommended.

  • Cafe Pamir Lodge

    The Pamir Highway

    This tiny upstairs one-room diner offers an alternative to the meals at nearby Pamir Lodge.

  • Cafe Sharq

    Tajikistan

    For those on a very tight budget, the cheap pre-prepared meals being served within the green-and-yellow southern facade of the Panchshanbe Bazaar fill a…