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Getting there & away

From Khojand there are daily flights to Dushanbe (US$55), plus flights to Bishkek, Moscow and various Siberian cities. Tajikistan Airlines (6 02 49; Lenina 56; 8am-noon, 1-6pm) is near the Panchshanbe Bazaar.

Minibuses to Kanibadam/Kanibodom (328, 2.50TJS), for Uzbekistan, and to Isfara (301, 3.50TJS), for Kyrgyzstan, leave from the Isfara bus station (Lenina) in the southeast suburbs, on the road to Chkalovsk. There are also quicker shared taxis (10TJS per seat) from here to both destinations.

There are frequent minibuses (314; one hour, 3TJS) and shared taxis (10TJS per seat) south to Istaravshan from the old bus station (Kamoli Khojandi) in the west of town. Shared taxis to Penjikent (seven hours, 80TJS) also leave from here when full.

For shared taxis to Dushanbe (12 hours, 100TJS per seat) you need to take minibuses 18, 45 or 55 in the early morning from Lenina to the Chunchuk Aral bus stand in the northeastern suburbs. Minibuses also run from here to Buston, from where you can take a taxi to the Oybek border crossing with Uzbekistan.