Things to do in Dushanbe
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Port Saïd
One of the few night-clubs in Dushanbe. Most women in these clubs are prostitutes so solo female travellers should think twice about going alone.
reviewed
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Bekhzod National Museum
The Bekhzod National Museum, on a commanding site on Maydani Ayni, includes standard exhibits on natural history, art, ethnography and archaeology, but little English text. There are a few gems among the filler, including a lovely minbar (mosque pulpit) and mihrab (niche marking the direction of Mecca) from Istaravshan and a fine painting of Lenin meeting oppressed women of the world in Moscow's Red Square.
There's a chilling reconstruction of a zindan (jail) on the 2nd floor. The top floor is given over to a Soviet/presidential collection - look for the alabaster carvings in the stairwell.
reviewed
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Museum of National Antiquities
The Museum of National Antiquities is the best in the country, focusing on the Greco-Bactrian sites of Takht-i-Sangin (including a small ivory image of Alexander the Great) and Kobadiyan, plus original Sogdian murals from Penjikent and a 6th-century scabbard and hilt in the shape of a griffin. The highlight is the 13m-long sleeping Buddha of Adjina-Tepe (Witches Hill), excavated in 1966.
It dates from the Kushan era, 1500 years ago, and was recently revealed as the largest Buddha figure in Central Asia. Photos aren't allowed. You must put on plastic booties before entering.
reviewed
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Al-Sham
This Lebanese and Syrian restaurant (Al-Sham is the Arabic name for Damascus) has sophisticated décor, with craved wooden grills and outdoor seating and there's an authentic range of meze (starters), plus all your main-dish grills and kebabs. There's no English menu, so take a knowledgeable friend if you don't know your kubba (croquettes of lamb and cracked wheat) from your baba ganoush (smoky eggplant dip).
reviewed
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Museum of Musical Instruments
The Museum of Musical Instruments is also known as the Gurminj Museum after the owner, Badakhshani actor Gurminj Zavkybekov. There are lots of antique instruments, including a gijak (fiddle), doira (tambourine/drum) and rubab (six-stringed mandolin), plus old photos and memorabilia. Ask about upcoming musical concerts. The museum is hidden across from the mosaic of justice and next to a district court.
reviewed
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NBM Restaurant
Rivalling the Merve is this equally excellent Turkish café, with pleasant open-air seating overlooking Rudaki. The food is great, from pides (Turkish-style pizzas) to excellent Iskender kebabs, and don't overlook the salad counter inside for some great aubergine dishes. Top it off with a sweet pastry rather than the unjustifiably popular homemade ice cream.
reviewed
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Barakat Bazaar
While not particularly exotic or Eastern in flavour, the large, covered Barakat Bazaar is the centre of commercial activity in Dushanbe. Pick up an embroidered tupi (skullcap) for US$3, or a chapan (cloak) for around US$8. You'll also find plenty of sequined, gold-stitched trousers and colourful dresses. It's north of the Hotel Tajikistan.
reviewed
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Salsa Restaurant
Just what you didn't expect in Dushanbe; an Ecuadorian restaurant serving everything from carrot cake and cocktails to Mexican and Italian dishes, complemented by a decent selection of wines and real coffee. This is definitely your only chance in Central Asia to try Ecuadorian llapingachos (fried potato and mozzarella cheese with peanut sauce).
reviewed
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TsUM
The central department store has some souvenirs among the shampoo and mobile phones. Items include suzani embroidery, stripey cloaks, hats, Pamiri socks, ceramic Central Asian figures, musical instruments and lots of ikat silks, plus practical items such as camera batteries, memory sticks and print film.
reviewed
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Haji Yakoub Mosque and Medressa
With its crescent-topped minaret and burnished golden dome, the Haji Yakoub mosque and medressa, just west of the Hotel Avesto, is one of the few visible manifestations of Islam in Dushanbe. The mosque is named after Haji Yakoub, a Tajik religious leader who fled to Afghanistan. Women are only allowed in the courtyard.
reviewed
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La Grande Dame
If you need a slice of Western familiarity to go with your Lavazza coffee, try this cool French-style brasserie. The menu (available online) offers everything from lunchtime baguettes to 'salmon blinis with sour cream and caviar' and a Sunday brunch with treats like French toast and eggs benedict.
reviewed
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Statue of Ismail Samani
Dushanbe's most visible monument to nation-building is the rather kitsch Statue of Ismail Samani, the 10th-century Samanid ruler, occupying prime place on Maydani Azadi (Freedom Square). The monument replaced a much smaller statue of Lenin, which now stands in the Bagh-i-Markazi (Central Park).
reviewed
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Georgia Café
Expand your culinary horizons with dishes like khachapuri (like a pizza with no toppings), solyanka (beef in tomato sauce) and sacsivi (cold chicken with nuts in cream sauce) in this intimate little café, washed down with a glass of imported Georgian wine.
reviewed
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Café Merve
Our favourite eatery in town is this excellent bustling cafeteria, churning out Turkish kebabs, Turkish borek (little pies), pizza, salads, cakes and coffee, plus the best breakfast bets in town (feta cheese and olives!). It can be hard to get a seat at lunchtime.
reviewed
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Chaykhona Rokhat
This unusual, Soviet-era attempt at a grand Persian-style chaikhana is great for people-watching but is perhaps better for a drink or snack than a meal. Lose yourself in the ceiling paintings while you wait for your waiter, as the service borders on neglect.
reviewed
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Peak Korjenevskaya (7105m)
29 days (Dushanbe)
Join Simon Yates on a high altitude expedition to the Pamirs mountain range of Tajikistan..
Not LP reviewed
from USD$7,290 -
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Writers' Union Building
Tajikistan's Persian past is invoked in the façade of the Writers' Union Building. It's adorned like a medieval cathedral with saintly, sculpted-stone figures of Sadruddin Ayni, Omar Khayam, Firdausi and other writers from the Persian pantheon.
reviewed
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Dushanbe Ski Federation
Director Gulya Petrova runs hiking & skiing trips & runs the ski base at Takob in the Varzob Valley. Her weekend hiking trips from Dushanbe are popular with expats & good value at around US$20 per person.
reviewed
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Great Game Travel Company
Can arrange full tours and/or independent travel. Individual travellers can apply for GBAO permits and flight ticket bookings at their sister website www.traveltajikistan.com. Located in the Adventurer's Inn.
reviewed
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The Handicraft Centre
Also called Tillya Teppe, this shop in the Bactria Centre sells a good range of Pamiri handicrafts from both the Yak House and De Pamiri, as well as maps of the Pamirs, music CDs and museum guidebooks.
reviewed
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Orima
This well-stocked Turkish supermarket is useful for imported Western food, cold beer and toiletries. There are branches next to Café Merve and across from Ayni Opera & Ballet Theatre.
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Ayni Opera & Ballet Theatre
There's still life left in this classy theatre, with the odd opera and classical music concert, plus it has possibly the finest interior in Dushanbe. Tickets cost from around TJS10.
reviewed
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Kellers
A mix of expats and local business people come for the house-brewed German-style beer (around TJS2 for 0.5L), pleasant outdoor seating, and authentic Chinese and European food.
reviewed
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Delhi Darbar
The self-proclaimed 'gateway of Indo-Fusion cuisine' offers popular Friday night buffets. The food is more 'fusion' than Indian but it's not bad. Offers takeaway.
reviewed
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Vastan
One of the few night-clubs in Dushanbe. Most women in these clubs are prostitutes so solo female travellers should think twice about going alone.
reviewed
