Lonely Planet review
Despite a temperamental shower and the occasional grubby sheet, this is still our pick for the best sleeping spot in town. Major pluses are the shared bathroom (bigger than many hotel rooms), the excellent breakfasts (included in the price) and the relaxed vibe. There are only four rooms (named after Pamiri explorers), so book in advance, especially in July and August.
The guesthouse is run by the Great Game Travel Company, who can also arrange homestays, OVIR registration and airport pickup. The guesthouse is hidden in the backstreets behind the Vadanosos (Varzob) Bazaar, across a bridge over the sewer pipe behind the German embassy (!), so can be tricky to find the first time.