Things to do in Southern Taiwan
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Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Department Store
Most older locals remember the days when this location housed a prison and execution room, and not an upscale mall.
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Armory Pub
A few staples of the bar scene include Armory Pub and Willy's Second Base. Note that both places serve meals and the Armory has a decent range of vegetarian options.
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Confucius Temple
Modelled after the temple in Confucius’ native town of Shandong, this temple is based on classical Chinese temple architecture. Confucius (551–479 BC) is generally acknowledged as China’s greatest educator and scholar. In his day, education was exclusive to nobility but Confucius successfully promoted popular education.
Confucius valued simplicity, a trait seen in the temple’s architecture and relatively muted adornments. Inscriptions that might be found on columns, doors and windows in other temples are banned here; who would have the temerity to think his or her writing could compare with that of the great master? Do take note of the detailed carvings of dragons o…
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British Consulate at Takou (Dagou)
Kaohsiung has a large number of well-preserved relics scattered around the city. The handsome redbrick consulate, built in 1865 by a British trading company, has recently become one of our favourite hang-out spots. The consulate sits about 70m or so above the mouth of Kaohsiung harbour, and it's a great location for watching the giant container ships sail through the tiny mouth of the harbour.
Recently the old dining and tearooms were reopened. With their Victorian British design, and arched windows letting in the sea views and breezes, they are a top spot for enjoying a meal or drink (open 10:00 to midnight).
While you're in the area check out a tiny temple to the left of…
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Lotus Pond
The pond has been a popular destination since the Qing dynasty and is well known for the 20 or so temples dotting the shoreline and nearby area. In recent years much money and effort has gone into returning the lake and its cultural and natural heritage to their former glory. There's now a path right around the lake, and efforts are underway to restore the wetlands on the west side. At night coloured lights give the lake a very festive and modern appearance.
Two long sections of the impressive Old Wall of Fengshan, built in 1826, lie to the southeast of the lake. The best section is along Chenfong Rd about 100m up Shengli Rd from the train station.
If you are going to the …
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Koxinga Shrine
When the Ming dynasty was overthrown by the Manchus in 1661, Koxinga (Cheng Cheng-kung) led his army to Taiwan with plans to restock supplies and then retake the mainland. He found the Dutch already here, but after nine months battle they surrendered and departed from Taiwan.
Koxinga did much to improve conditions on the island. But, like the KMT of modern times, he did not live to see the mainland retaken. He died after only a year in Taiwan, and his grandson surrendered to the Manchus in 1683.
There's a certain atmosphere of dignity surrounding the Koxinga Shrine, even though most of it is of rather recent origin: the original southern-style temple was rebuilt in a nort…
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Chihkan Towers
One of the best preserved, or perhaps we should say reconstructed, historical sights in Tainan is this old fort (Fort Proventia). It's a splendid place to roam around, or even enjoy an outdoor concert on the weekends.
Chihkan has gone through many masters (Ming, Qing, Japanese and the KMT, China's Nationalist party) since the foundations were first laid by the Dutch in 1653. At that time the seashore reached the fort's outer walls. Our favourite features are the nine stone turtles with tablets on their backs. The steles hail from the Qing dynasty and if you check the backs you can see where the carver made a mistake on one and, rather than starting over with a fresh slab,…
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Hsitzuwan Beach
Hsitzuwan Beach is smaller than Cijin, but it's a calmer swimming beach and is also an excellent place for hanging out and watching the sunset. We prefer it to Cijin, as it has a cool tropical feel and a lovely mountain backdrop. The beach is on the grounds of Sun Yat-sen University so the whole environment on and around the beach is clean and well maintained.
To get to the beach, take bus 224 to the Sun Yat-sen University stop and then walk through the tunnel. You see signs for the beach on the other side. There are changing rooms and showers here too, as well as a café.
Both beaches are open all year round, and kept clean all year round, though swimming is only from May…
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Hiking in Chaishan Nature Reserve
Within Kaohsiung City there is good hiking in the 1000-hectare Chaishan Nature Reserve, which has been preserved since Japanese times. There's a decent brochure and map of the area at the tourist office. The Chaishan reserve is famous for its macaque population, so don't carry food into the area and watch out that the monkeys don't steal your camera!
On weekends and holidays you can take the Chaishan Line bus to the reserve from the train station. On weekdays take bus 248 to Yancheng Station (鹽埕站) then change to bus 219 to Longcyuan Temple (龍泉寺). The trails start behind the temple.
Just walking around the university and getting lost in the hills is pleasant too…
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Tainan Kuang Tsai Embroidery Shop
Across from one treasure of Tainan, the War God Temple, is this other, Mr Lin, one of the last remaining embroidery masters in Tainan. Mr Lin has been working at his craft since he was 16 (he's in his late 60s now) and in recent years has taken the craft to a new, modern level. All his pieces have the light touch and expressiveness of a craftsman truly at the peak of his skills.
The most famous and expensive samples of his work are the long Eight Immortals panels, which used to be popular at weddings and other special occasions. Such panels cost tens of thousands of Taiwanese dollars but this doesn't stop buyers from all over the world coming to the shop. Smaller pieces c…
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Matsu Temple
The lively Matsu Temple once served as the palace of Ning Jin, the last king of the Ming dynasty. If you wish to confirm visually that a king's status is lower than an emperor's, count the steps to the shrine. There are only seven; an emperor would get nine.
Matsu is the most popular folk deity in Taiwan, with over 500 temples dedicated to her around the island.
Some features to note (besides the elaborate carvings and paintings) include the 300-year-old Matsu statue, and the shrine in the back to Matsu's parents in an area that used to be King Ning Jin's bedroom. Look up and you'll see the roof beam where the king's concubines hanged themselves so many years ago. For fun,…
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Cycling
One of the most pleasant things to do in Meinong is to get into the countryside on a bike. The town of Meinong, like most in Taiwan, is ugly, but the countryside is lush and dotted with tobacco sheds and three-sided Fujian-style houses.
Some of the best cycling is off the main road towards the ridge. Another enjoyable route is to ride out of town on County Rd 140 east towards Liugui and then head left into the fields. There are colour-coded bike route across Meinong but at the time of research the lines on the road were fading, and in any case, maps were in Chinese only. You can hire bikes on weekends to the right of the Meinong The Hakkas Museum on 40-3 Minzu Rd. The Shu…
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5 Cent Driftwood House
This is one place that you should at least have a gander at. It's across from the Eternal Golden Castle. Designed by an artist from Tainan County, who had no previous background in architecture, the house will strike you as either daring, original and awesome, or proof that people should stick to their field of expertise. The house is made from driftwood, railway ties, brick, stone, glass and other natural materials. It's massive inside, with an open interior fed with natural light.
The outside is indescribable, though if we had to describe it we'd say it looks like a castle battling cancer. If this sounds harsh it isn't meant to be. The restaurant is a quirky, idiosyncra…
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God of War Temple
This is the oldest and most impressive temple in Taiwan dedicated to Kuan Kung, a Han dynasty general deified as the war god.
The temple's overall size and structure were established in 1690, though much splendid artwork and many historically valuable objects have been added over the years. The long deep rose-colored walls of this temple have always been one of its highlights for us. Other interesting features to note are the beggar seats built into the doorframe (so that the poor could beg alms from every visitor), the high threshold at the entrance (originally designed to keep women out!), and the bamboo-shaped poem on a scroll at the back, which contain words said to h…
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Eternal Golden Castle
Like many famous sights around Tainan, the Eternal Golden Castle goes by different names: Erkunshen Cannon Fort, Anping Big Cannon Fort and Eternal Golden Castle. The fortress was built in 1876 to shore up Taiwan's defences against the Japanese threat.
Not much remains of the original fortress; oddly, though, the intact arched front gate was built with bricks pilfered from Anping Fort. The reconstructed fort and the cannons make for good photo ops. It's possible now, and recommended, to walk to the castle from the other sights in Anping.
If you are heading to the castle directly from the train station you can catch city bus 14, or tour bus 88 or 99 on the weekend, from th…
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Wufei Temple
When Koxinga's grandson surrendered to the Manchus in 1683, all hope of restoring the Ming dynasty ended. King Ning Jin, the last contender for the Ming throne, knew his time was up. Before he committed suicide, however, he urged his concubines to 'get thee to a nunnery'. The concubines refused, claiming their honour was as important as the king's, and hanged themselves on a roof beam in the bedroom of his palace. The palace is now the shrine to Matsu's parents at the Matsu Temple and the beam is still in place.
A dainty temple was constructed in the concubines' honour and now sits in a 2000-sq-metre garden park. Note that the real tombs of the ladies are behind the shrin…
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Kaohsiung Harbour
The harbour itself has recently become an attraction as more and more of it is opened up to the public.
Down by Pier 12 and the Gushan Ferry Pier you'll find walkways and cafés where you can sit by the water and enjoy the ships sailing in, as well as being loaded and unloaded. No, we're not talking about a scene of shirtless coolies hauling bamboo crates off a four-masted barque. These are massive container ships, and the modern port is fully outfitted with cranes and lifts to unload the cargo. And it's no less enjoyable for that.
Harbour cruises leave from Pier 12 several times a day (around NT$150, 90 minutes). Check at the visitor centre for the current schedule.
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Meinong Folk Village
The village is an artificial re-creation of an old-fashioned neighbourhood. It is definitely touristy but well worth visiting nonetheless, as you can watch traditional crafts being made and sample Hakka léi chá (擂茶; pounded tea), an assortment of sticky-rice snacks, and tasty traditional noodles.
Village stores sell well-made paper umbrellas, fans and bamboo baskets. At the back of the village, outside the last shop, are two metal pots filled with water. Dip your hands in the water and rub the handles of the pots. The sound is like a hundred wine glasses being rubbed at one time.
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City God Temple
The city god tallies our good and bad deeds in this life after we die. Hence it is not unusual that his image appears in the Dongyue Temple, dedicated to underworld, nor that these two temples are very close to each other.
When you enter the City God Temple you'll see two large abacuses. These are used to calculate if you have done more good than bad in life. Overhead is large sign with a gold inscription that translates roughly as 'You've come at last'.
The pink slips of paper you often see on the altar are from students asking for help to pass an exam. Yep, school is hell everywhere.
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Cijin Island
The island makes for a pleasant half-day trip from the mainland. Attractions include the seafood street (hǎichǎn jiē), a centuries-old Matsu Temple (Tiānhoù Gōng) with excellent relief and pillar carvings, and an old lighthouse with great views over the ocean and harbour. There's also a long sandy beach where you can swim in summer (there are free changing rooms and showers) and stroll in winter (the city keeps it clean all year round, a rarity in Taiwan).
To reach the island, take bus 248 to the ferry terminal. The ferry (around NT$10, five minutes) runs every five minutes.
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Lady Linshui's Temple
The elaborate design and excessive ornamentation of Lady Linshui's Temple would clue most traditionally minded Chinese into the fact that it is dedicated to a woman - in this case, Lady Linshui.
For generations now, women have come to this temple to ask Lady Linshui to protect their children. This is demanding work and the goddess employs 36 assistants (three for each month), whose statuettes can be seen in little glass vaults around the inside walls of the temple.
In addition to offerings of incense, you'll often see flowers, face powder and make-up left at the temple.
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Altar of Heaven Temple
Have you had a run of bad luck lately? Then visit the Altar of Heaven Temple and pray to the supreme Taoist entity, the Jade Emperor (or Lord of Heaven), to help you out. Tainan families have been doing this for generations on the 1st and 15th of every month.
The temple is noteworthy for two things. First, it has no statue of the god. The original temple was established as a temporary measure - 300 years ago! Second, there's a famous Yī (One) inscription over the altar. Yi signifies that for heaven and earth there is only one true way: humanity and righteousness.
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Love River
About five years ago, the Love River began to be cleaned up after years of neglect, if not outright abuse. As the waters flowed clear again, the banks were turned into strips of lovely parkland featuring walkways, benches, shady trees, outdoor cafés and stages. And it just keeps getting better year after year. These days it has become the focal point of the renewed pride Kaohsiung citizens feel for their city. One of the most popular activities now is cruising along the river at night.
Just back from the river is the wonderful Municipal Film Archives.
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Dongyue Temple
People often come to the Dongyue Temple to communicate with the dead through spiritual mediums. It's a fascinating place to catch a glimpse of Taiwanese folk culture. In addition, the grim murals on the walls of the second chamber are as graphic as the depictions of hell by Hieronymus Bosch: there are disembowelments, eye gougings, stabbings, boilings and so much more.
The first chamber of the temple holds the city god, Chenghuang; the second, Zizang Wang, the Buddhist king of the underworld; the last, a number of demon gods who rule the underworld.
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National Museum of Taiwanese Literature
The building that houses the new National Museum of Taiwanese Literature was once the Tainan District Hall. Built in 1916 by the Japanese, it's a gorgeous example of colonial architecture. Even if literature is not your greatest interest, it's worth coming just to wander the halls and relax in the foyer.
The museum highlights the development of Taiwanese literature from pre-Han aboriginals through the colonial periods up to the modern era. All exhibits and displays come with English interpretation signs.
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