Sights in Southern Taiwan
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Confucius Temple
You expect a Confucian temple to exude the calm, grace and dignified beauty of traditional Chinese culture, and this, the first such temple in Taiwan, doesn't disappoint. Nor do the grounds, which contain one of the largest and most beautiful banyan trees in all of Taiwan.
The temple grounds are free, and are nice to sit in at night, but you must pay to enter the palace area. The receipt comes with an excellent short brochure and map of the temple. Make sure you look out for the stone tablet on the right as you enter the Edification Hall (the tablet is not shown on the brochure). The words on the tablet explain the school rules (the site was once a centre for Confucian…
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British Consulate Residence at Takou (Dagou)
The handsome red-brick consulate residence was built in 1865 by a British trading company. Sitting about 70m above the mouth of Kaohsiung harbour, the location is perfect for watching giant container ships sail through the tiny mouth of the harbour. There's also an interesting clash of cultures to observe on the steps as mainland Chinese tourists react in bewilderment to the open presence of Falun Gong posters and protesters decrying the Beijing government.
While in the area, check out a tiny temple to the left of the larger temple beside the consulate. It's the only shrine in Taiwan to deify 17th-century Dutch naval commanders, much in the way old Chinese generals have…
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Lotus Pond
The pond in the north of the city has been a popular destination since the Qing dynasty and is well known for the 20 or so temples dotting the shoreline and nearby alleys. In recent years much money and effort has gone into returning the lake and its cultural and natural heritage to something of their former glory. There's now a path right around the lake, and efforts are underway to restore the wetlands on the west side. At night coloured lights give the lake a very festive appearance.
Starting from the southern end and heading clockwise around the lake, you'll first encounter sections of the Old Wall of Fengshan (Fèngshān Jiùcháng), built in 1826. The intact north-gate…
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Koxinga's Shrine
When the Ming dynasty was overthrown by the Manchus in 1661, Koxinga (Cheng Cheng-kung) led his army to Taiwan with plans to restock supplies and then retake the mainland. He found the Dutch already here, but after nine months' battle they surrendered and departed Taiwan.
Koxinga did much to improve conditions on the island. But, like the KMT of modern times, he did not live to see the mainland retaken. He died after only a year in Taiwan, and his grandson surrendered to the Manchus in 1683.
There's a certain atmosphere of dignity surrounding Koxinga's Shrine, even though most of it is of rather recent origin: the original southern-style temple was rebuilt in a northern…
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Chihkan Towers
This old fort is one of the best preserved, or perhaps we should say reconstructed, historical sights in Tainan. It's a splendid place in which to roam around, or even to enjoy an outdoor concert on the weekends.
Chihkan has gone through many masters – Ming, Qing and Japanese, and the Kuomintang (KMT; China's Nationalist Party) – since the foundations were first laid by the Dutch in 1653. At that time the seashore reached the fort's outer walls. Our favourite features are the nine stone turtles with tablets on their backs. These stelae hail from the Qing dynasty and if you check the backs you can see where the carver made a mistake on one and, rather than starting over…
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Hsitzuwan Beach
Hsitzuwan Beach is smaller than Cijin, but it's a calmer swimming beach and is also an excellent place for hanging out and watching the sunset. We prefer it to Cijin, as it has a cool tropical feel and a lovely mountain backdrop. The beach is on the grounds of Sun Yat-sen University so the whole environment on and around the beach is clean and well maintained.
To get to the beach, take bus 224 to the Sun Yat-sen University stop and then walk through the tunnel. You see signs for the beach on the other side. There are changing rooms and showers here too, as well as a café.
Both beaches are open all year round, and kept clean all year round, though swimming is only from May…
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Matsu Temple
This lively temple once served as the palace of Ning Jin, the last king of the Ming dynasty. If you wish to confirm visually that a king's status is lower than an emperor's, count the steps to the shrine. There are only seven; an emperor would get nine.
Matsu is the most popular folk deity in Taiwan, with over 500 temples dedicated to her around the island. Some features to note at this particular temple (besides the nicely detailed wood carvings and paintings) include the 300-year-old Matsu statue, and, in the back, the shrine to Matsu's parents, in an area that used to be King Ning Jin's bedroom. Look up and you'll see the roof beam where the king's concubines hanged…
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Official God of War Temple
This is the oldest and most impressive temple in Taiwan dedicated to Guan Di (Guan Gong), a Han-dynasty general deified as a patron of warriors and those who live by a code of honour.
The temple's overall size and structure were established in 1690, although much splendid artwork and many historically valuable objects have been added over the years. For us, the long, deep-rose-coloured walls of this temple have always been one of its highlights. Other interesting features to note are the beggar seats built into the doorframe (so that the poor could beg alms from every visitor), the high threshold at the entrance (originally designed to keep women out!), and the…
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Eternal Golden Castle
Like many famous sights around Tainan, this fort goes by different names: Erkunshen Cannon Fort, Anping Big Cannon Fort and Eternal Golden Castle. The fortress was built in 1876 to shore up Taiwan's defences against the Japanese threat.
Not much remains of the original fortress; oddly, though, the intact arched front gate was built with bricks pilfered from Anping Fort. The reconstructed fort and the cannons make for good photo ops. It's possible now, and recommended, to walk to the castle from the other sights in Anping.
City buses 2 and 14 stop at the castle, as does tour bus 88. You can walk from Anping St along the harbour in about 30 minutes.
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Wufei Temple
When Koxinga's grandson surrendered to the Manchus in 1683, all hope of restoring the Ming dynasty ended. King Ning Jin, the last contender for the Ming throne, knew his time was up. However, before he committed suicide, he urged his concubines to 'get thee to a nunnery'. The concubines refused, claiming their honour was as important as the king's, and hanged themselves on a roof beam in the bedroom of his palace. The palace is now the shrine to Matsu's parents at the Matsu Temple and the beam is still in place.
The dainty Wufei Temple was constructed in the concubines' honour and now sits in a 2000-sq-metre garden park off Wufei Rd. Note that the real tombs of the…
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Kaohsiung Harbour
The opening of the harbour to the public is still a work in progress, but down by Pier 12 (the Love Pier), Gushan Ferry Pier (渡船站) and Fisherman's Wharf (高雄港漁人碼頭; Gāoxióng Gǎng Yúrén Mǎtóu) you'll find walkways, bike paths, cafes and beer gardens. Check at the train station visitor centre about harbour cruises.
The Pier-2 Art District (駁二藝術特區; Bóèr Yìshù Tèqū) is an old warehouse area that was renovated into art studios (following European and North American examples of similar urban-regeneration projects). Exhibitions and concerts are frequently held indoors and out. Check at the visitor centre for a schedule of events.
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Meinong Folk Village
The village is an artificial recreation of an old-fashioned neighbourhood. It's definitely touristy but you can still watch traditional crafts being made, sample Hakka pounded tea (擂茶; léi chá) and other tasty traditional snacks, and purchase well-made paper umbrellas, fans and bamboo baskets.
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City God Temple
The city god (Chenghuang), officially the Lord of Walls and Moats, and protector of towns, also tallies this life's good and bad deeds after we die. Hence it is not unusual that his image appears in the Dongyue Temple, dedicated to the underworld, nor that these two temples sit in close proximity to each other.
When you enter the City God Temple, look up for the two large abacuses used to calculate whether you have done more good than bad in life. And check out the gold scripted plaque: it translates roughly as 'You've come at last', meaning death escapes no one.
In the worship hall look for pink slips of paper on the altar. They're from students asking for help to pass an…
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Cijin Island
The island makes for a pleasant half-day trip from the mainland. Attractions include the seafood street (hǎichǎn jiē), a centuries-old Matsu Temple (Tiānhoù Gōng) with excellent relief and pillar carvings, and an old lighthouse with great views over the ocean and harbour. There's also a long sandy beach where you can swim in summer (there are free changing rooms and showers) and stroll in winter (the city keeps it clean all year round, a rarity in Taiwan).
To reach the island, take bus 248 to the ferry terminal. The ferry (around NT$10, five minutes) runs every five minutes.
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Lady Linshui's Temple
For generations, women have come to this temple to ask Lady Linshui to protect their children. This is demanding work and the goddess employs 36 assistants (three for each month), whose statuettes can be seen in little glass vaults around the inside walls of the temple.
In addition to offerings of incense, you'll often see flowers, face powder and make-up left at the temple. If you are extremely lucky you might see the unique southern-temple spectacle associated with Lady Linshui called the Twelve Grannies Parade.
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Altar of Heaven
Have you had a run of bad luck lately? Then visit this temple and pray to the supreme Taoist entity, the Jade Emperor (Lord of Heaven), to help you out. Tainan families have been doing this for generations on the 1st and 15th of every month.
The temple is noteworthy for two things. First, it has no statue of the god as the original temple was established as a temporary measure – 300 years ago! Second, there's a famous Yī (One) inscription over the altar that signifies there is only one true way for heaven and earth: humanity and righteousness.
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Love River
Some have compared Kaohsiung's Love River to Shanghai's Bund – only a whole lot cleaner! It's a bit of a stretch (except the clean part) but this once open sewer certainly has seen a remarkable transformation in recent years. The waters flow clean, and the bank-side promenades with their benches, shady trees and outdoor cafes are popular hangouts for both locals and visitors.
You can cruise along the river day and night (20-minute boat rides are NT$80, and run from 4pm to 11pm). Boats leave often and are usually full on weekends.
Just back from the river is the wonderful Municipal Film Archives, where you can enjoy on-site private and public viewings of the archives'…
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Dongyue Temple
People often come to this temple to communicate with the dead through spirit mediums. It's a fascinating place to catch a glimpse of Taiwanese folk culture.
The first chamber of the temple holds the city god, Chenghuang; the second, Zizang Wang, the Buddhist king of the underworld; the last, a number of demon gods who rule the underworld.
The disturbing yet fascinatingly grim murals on the walls of the second chamber are as graphic as the depictions of hell by Hieronymus Bosch: there are disembowelments, eye gougings, stabbings, boilings and so much more.
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National Museum of Taiwanese Literature
The building that houses the museum was once the Tainan District Hall. Built in 1916 by the Japanese, it's a gorgeous example of colonial architecture. Even if literature isn't your greatest interest, it's worth coming here just to wander the halls and relax in the foyer.
The museum highlights the development of Taiwanese literature from pre-Han aborigines, through the colonial periods, up to the modern era. All exhibits and displays have English signage.
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Anping Matsu Temple
This temple is one of many claiming status as the oldest in Taiwan. But it does genuinely display what many believe is the oldest Matsu statue. Our sources say it's not the one the temple brochure claims (the biggest one in the back shrine), but is, in fact, the middle one on the second row of smaller Matsu statues.
The temple interior is far more elaborately decorated than most in central Tainan, and features a splendidly ornate and deep plafond (decorative ceiling) above the main shrine. Near the altar, little packets of 'safe rice' are available for you to take home to help keep you and your family safe. If you do take one, make a donation to the temple.
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Anping Oyster Ash Kiln
It's generally believed that the Dutch taught the Taiwanese to make a durable brick mortar using crushed oyster shells mixed with sugar water and sticky rice. At one time, oyster-shell kilns (which produced the ground-oyster ash) were a common sight in Tainan. The ruins of this kiln represent the last of its kind. The kiln is nothing special to look at but it's still worth a visit to learn more about this little-known industry.
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Museum of History
A few blocks north of the Municipal Film Archives, also beside the river, is the lovely Museum of History, formerly the city government building during Japanese times. Inside are a number of photographic exhibits, furniture displays and special seasonal exhibits. But we just like to walk up and down the cool marble staircase.
Bus 248 stops by the Museum of History, putting you in the centre of the Love River area.
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National Science & Technology Museum
Features an hourly IMAX show and high-quality, hands-on science exhibits designed for children. The exhibit on the Industrial History of Taiwan, one of the few in English, is so informative that it alone is worth the price of admission. Take the Bus 60 to the museum from the main train station.
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Great South Gate
The garrison commander in you will love the martial feel of this old city gate, the only one in Tainan that still has much of its defensive wall intact. The inner grounds feature several cannons and a section of the old wall that is marvellously overgrown with thick roots. As with the Confucius Temple, the trees here are an attraction in themselves.
At the far end of the park look for a collection of handsome stelae that commemorate centuries of battles, bridge buildings, official promotions and anything else thought worthy of a large slab of engraved rock.
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Tait & Co Merchant House
This merchant house was built by the British in 1867 and now holds a permanent exhibit of household artefacts from the 17th century (donated by the Dutch government). Through a series of decorated rooms, the exhibit highlights the lifestyle of Dutch, Chinese and aboriginal families.
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