North Cross-Island Highway

Introducing North Cross-Island Highway

If you’re looking for wild scenery but want a change of pace from coastal waters and rugged shorelines, try a journey down National Hwy 7, also known as the North Cross-Island Hwy (Běibù Héngguàn Gōnglù).

The highway starts in the old Taoyuan County town of Daxi (not to be confused with the Ilan County town on the northeast coast), famous for its excellent dòugān (firm tofu) and the Qing-dynasty façades on Heping St. At first the road winds through the countryside, passing flower farms and settlements, including the burial grounds of former leader Chiang Kai-shek. After passing above Shimen Reservoir, the largest body of water in northern Taiwan, the road narrows and starts to rise and wind its way along steep gorges, across precipitously high bridges and, in general, through some pretty fantastic mountain scenery.

At Chilan, the highway descends suddenly and an hour later enters the flood plains of the Lanyang River. It then continues northeast to Ilan, with spur routes to Luodong and Wuling Forest Recreation Area.

You can drive the highway in four or five hours, but there are many great stops leading to waterfalls, caves, forest reserves, hot springs and stands of ancient trees. It’s best to have your own transport, as buses are few and far between.

The entire highway can literally become a car park during Chinese New Year and on hot summer weekends. Late autumn and winter are especially good times to go as the crowds are thin and the sights seem improved by the chill and mist in the air. If you drive, be very aware of both other drivers and the natural hazards. This road defines curvy and treacherous, and some part of the surface is always under repair due to typhoons and landslides. While much of the road is being widened these days, in some places there is only enough room for one car.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009