Restaurants in Tahiti & French Polynesia
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Bloody Mary’s
Bloody Mary’s isn’t just a restaurant, it’s an experience, especially at dinner. You walk on sand floors, sit on coconut stools under a thatched roof and are surrounded by exotic plants. The food impresses, too; you choose your meal from an extensive display at the entrance, with a presentation in English. Fish lovers will get a buzz here, with a tantalising array of lagoon fish and pelagics, but dedicated carnivores are also well catered for, with meat cooked the American-barbecue way. A bit touristy, but it’s a concept that has been cult since 1979, and it’s a favourite with celebrities, so go with the flow.
reviewed
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Le St James
Don’t be deterred by the odd location – the place is hidden in the back of a small shopping centre in Vaitape – for once inside, you’ll find French specialities with a bow to local ingredients, such as blanc de volaille aux cèpes et riz à l’ananas (poultry with cep mushrooms and rice with pineapple). Let the sea breeze whip through your hair while dining alfresco on the deck above the lagoon. Lunch is a tamer (and less expensive) affair, with salads, burgers and grilled fish.
reviewed
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Chez Yvonne – Restaurant Hinakonui
Hmm, just recalling the lobster flambéed with whisky makes us drool. The goat with coconut milk is another palate-pleaser in this authentic Marquesan restaurant run by Yvonne Katupa, a well-known personality on the island of Nuku Hiva. Bookings are recommended, otherwise you might find the kitchen closed if there aren’t enough customers. It’s a relaxing spot, with an open-air thatched terrace opening onto the seafront. Sadly, the five boxy bungalows are starting to show their age, with saggy mattresses and sombre bathrooms, but the location, on a grassy property facing a bay, is fantastic. However, they’re convenient enough to flop down for the night and to set off early…
reviewed
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Villa Mahana
A true alchemist, the French chef Damien Rinaldi has got the magic formula right, fusing Mediterranean with Polynesian to create stunning cuisine. Will it be beef fillet with Provence herbs or pumpkin soup with vanilla and coconut milk? The choice is a challenge. Exquisite execution extends to the small dessert selection: the fondant au chocolat (chocolate cake) provides a flavour explosion. It’s housed in a stylish villa reminiscent of Provence, with lots of ochre and yellow tones. Perfect for a romantic tête à tête, but be sure to book well in advance – there are only seven tables. No sign.
reviewed
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Le Matira Beach Restaurant
In this ‘gourmet bistro’, there are enough ambitiously poetic names to tempt the gourmand in you, such as transparence de foie gras poêlé (pan-fried foie gras). Lunch has a casual atmosphere, but dinner is a romantic affair. Another clincher is the agreeable terrace overlooking the beach. Pastry chef Nicolas forces tough choices upon you. Will it be his classic crumble glacé (iced crumble) or his intense moelleux de banane au coeur coulant de chocolat noir (banana cake with melted dark choc)? Life is brief; get both.
reviewed
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La Bounty
This buzzy restaurant in an open-air thatched-roof building is a good place to soak up the tropical climes and indulge in fine dining without breaking the bank. The sand-floor dining room is decorated with dense foliage, bamboo walls and wooden furniture. Alas, no lagoon views to speak of. The menu is eclectic and inventive – salads and spaghetti au thon frais (spaghetti with fresh tuna) sit happily alongside flavoursome thin-crust pizzas and even fondue.
reviewed
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Motu Moea – Restaurant la Plage
This place has an idyllic setting on Motu Tiahura (also known as Motu Moea). The food is fresh and tasty, and fancy, fruity cocktails are also available. Take a dip (or swim back to whence you came) once you’ve digested your meal – this is the life! You can get a boat over to the motu (500 CFP) from Les Tipaniers Hotel & Restaurant or the Intercontinental Moorea Resort & Spa – or stuff your money in a ziplock plastic bag and swim.
reviewed
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New Te Marara
In a great location right on the lagoon, this lively restaurant is a favourite local watering hole and the best place to eat around Fare. With polished oyster shells nailed to the walls and coloured lights strewn from the thatched ceiling, it has a beach-bar vibe and cooks a mean shrimp curry. The menu is meat- and seafood-based, portions are generous and dishes come with a choice of starch or vegetable on the side.
reviewed
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Bora Kaina Hut
The Kaina Hut ticks all the boxes for an idyllic island experience. Romantic interior with candlelit tables, wooden furniture and sand floor. Check. Well-presented food befitting the setting. Check. Attentive service and soothing soundtrack. Check. The oysters, mussels, lagoon fish or raw fish duo and tempura prawns sing of the sea, but don’t miss the desserts (profiteroles with coconut and chocolate? More please).
reviewed
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Le Flamboyant
Le Flamboyant is a fine French-Polynesian eatery that’s short on pretension and big on taste, especially at dinner (light meals only at lunchtime). The specialities on offer are always a treat, but the winner is the uru (breadfruit) gnocchi – memorable. How about dessert? The crumble with tropical fruits and taro ice cream has plenty of zing. Opt for the set menu – at 4000 CFP, it’s a bargain.
reviewed
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Coco’s Restaurant
Dine in a gorgeous open plantation-style house bordered by a tropical garden that’s framed by coconut trees and looks out to Mo’orea. This is the sort of place that doesn’t list prices on the menu and each dish is served under a silver dome so that everyone can unveil their meal at the same time. The fine food is very French, with lots of seafood options. Tahiti’s swankiest and most romantic option.
reviewed
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Restaurant Nuutere
You won’t be able to miss the extravagantly painted facade at this great little restaurant. French specialities, cooked with local ingredients and some odd imported ones like ostrich or crocodile, are served in an intimate dining room. One speciality is the korori (pearl oyster meat) starter baked gratin-style in sea-snail shells. Don’t expect fast service. Credit cards are accepted.
reviewed
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Blue Banana
This hip new, lagoonside restaurant (it replaced the L’Auberge du Pacific) is heavenly romantic. The roof in the main dining room retracts, revealing a starry night-sky tableau. The food is as good as the ambience – feast on innovative French dishes (small portions but artistically presented) and fine French vintages from the air-conditioned cellar. Reservations recommended on weekends.
reviewed
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Restaurant Mahi Mahi
Right in downtown Fare, this surf-style eatery has a live lobster tank (a meal of them is 3500 CFP) and a stunning mural on the wall of the namesake fish. The menu is creative with dishes like turkey curry with banana (1400 CFP), plenty of seafood, a great pastry counter, cocktails from 900 CFP and a good wine list. Yummy breakfasts are available from 900 CFP.
reviewed
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Snack Kaupe – Chez Kahu
Blink and you’ll miss this discreet venture conveniently positioned across from Espace Culturel Paul Gauguin (no sign). No culinary extravaganza here, just a few classics faultlessly prepared (grilled sirloin, grilled fish, shrimps with tomato sauce). Kahu himself is something of a star in the Marquesas – he’s one of the best Haka Manu (Bird’s Dance) dancers.
reviewed
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Bus Stop
Ask any local and they’ll cite this new place as their favourite restaurant. The seared tuna with vanilla sauce (1980 CFP) is a great dish and the giant loaf of fresh baked bread served with it does not go to waste. The fricassee of chicken and shrimp stew with turmeric (1800 CFP) is near island-famous as are the generous, luscious desserts.
reviewed
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Restaurant Te Honu Iti
The terrace of this place sits over the water, and at night the water is lit up so you can watch rays and fish swim below. The owner’s original paintings grace the walls, so you have something else interesting to look at too, as you dine on exquisite osso bucco (2400 CFP), lobster (4200 CFP) or an array of French-inspired dishes.
reviewed
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Painapo Beach
An all-in-one sort of place that offers gourmet food using local ingredients, a white-sand beach and occasional cultural demonstrations. You can’t miss its huge (though falling apart) statue of a tattooed man holding a club at the entrance. There’s usually a palm-weaving demonstration on Thursdays and a Tahitian feast on Sundays.
reviewed
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Snack de la Marina
A local favourite that serves excellent, fresh food in massive portions. Light eaters can order single fish brochettes (300 CFP each) or big side orders of salad, fries and more (also 300 CFP each). For dessert try hot delicious gaufres (Belgian-style waffles; from 400 CFP) with a choice of sweet toppings.
reviewed
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Chez Vina
With cement floors, bananas hanging in the foyer and a goat out back, this homey place has character as well as good, well-priced food. Try the specialty shrimp coconut curry (1800 CFP) or, for a real treat, show up for the Sunday all-you-can-eat ma’a Tahiti (traditional Tahitian food) banquet (3800 CFP) at noon.
reviewed
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Sunset Boulevard
We’re talking of two open-air, permanently moored boats as well as two decks in a tropical garden right by the lagoon. The emphasis is on local dishes with a contemporary twist; a few zesty treasures include ‘BBQ King’ (skewered fish and beef) and ‘Humeur du Chef’ (an assortment of sushi and sashimi).
reviewed
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Restaurant Librarie
Climb up the metal spiral staircase in downtown Fare to dine on light mains such as a variety of salads (from 700 CFP) or good breakfasts (from 1000 CFP). While you’re up there, check out the bookstore that sells a few English titles including a small collection of cheap, used paperbacks.
reviewed
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Snack du Jardin Botanique
This humble beachside snack (snack bar) is right in the Jardin Botanique parking lot. Dishes like grilled fish in vanilla coconut sauce, steaks and shellfish are some of our favourites on this coast and on Sundays there’s a full authentic ma’a Tahiti for 3000 CFP.
reviewed
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Pink Coconut
We love this lively spot located right on Marina Taina among the sailboats. Dine on French-inspired fare like delicious risotto with scallops and wild mushrooms or French-style shellfish platters. At night it’s candlelit and there’s sometimes live music and dancing on the weekends.
reviewed
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Snack Matira
This unfussy little eatery could hardly be better situated: it’s right on the beach at Matira (think terrific lagoon views). The menu concentrates on simply prepared dishes as well as burgers and omelettes. Eat alfresco or grab your victuals and find your picnic spot on the beach.
reviewed