Restaurants in Syria
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Leila's Restaurant & Terrace
This al fresco rooftop restaurant overlooking Umayyad Mosque has the most magical setting in Damascus, especially for sunset drinks - the fresh mint lemonade is thirst-quenching - or later for dinner when the city lights twinkle. The menu features delicious Arabic mezze - try the eggplant kibbeh (cracked-wheat croquettes) - and succulent grills. Alcohol is served, but it's not on the menu - ask the waiter what is available.
reviewed
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Beit Jabri
Popular with locals and tourists alike, this casual café in the lovely courtyard of a splendid old Damascene house serves up Syrian standards like mezze and kebabs, alongside international dishes such as 'beef stricanof'. Locals mainly come for the sheesha and coffee, but the fresh juices are delicious.
reviewed
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C
Bekdach
A purveyor of scrumptious ice creams made with sahlab (like semolina powder). The generous servings of creamy ice cream are topped with crushed pistachio nuts. A souq shopping must.
reviewed
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Beit Sissi
Splendidly set in a restored 17th-century house with dining in an elegant courtyard (or a cosy interior room in the colder months), Beit Sissi is Aleppo's finest restaurant. Expect Syrian, Aleppan and French cuisine of the highest quality. Don't miss the delicious green beans in olive oil, the tasty ratatouille aubergine, the sujok (spicy sausage rolled in Arabic bread, sliced into snail-like pieces and then fried - the best we've tasted!) and the signature dish, cherry kebab.
There's a wonderful oud (lute) player most nights. Alcohol is served and credit cards are accepted.
reviewed
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Old House
This is one of Syria's most atmospheric restaurants. The interior of Old House has been decorated to look like the courtyard of an old house, with Mamluk-style banding on the walls, intricately patterned tiled floors, and traditional textiles for curtains. Devoted locals of all ages, but particularly Lattakia's old-timers, come for the rich Syrian specialities - the fried kibbeh and the sojouk (spicy Armenian sausages) are some of the best we've ever had.
Service is welcoming and accommodating, and alcohol is served.
reviewed
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D
Blue Stone
In a big grey stone building with huge picture windows looking out onto the street, this is the most happening bar-café-restaurant in the Christian Quarter. It positively hums in the evenings with the chatter of flirty young couples gazing into each other's eyes, same-sex groups of friends comparing rings (girls) and ring tones (boys), and families tucking into pizzas, pastas and big bowls of salad. While there's a full bar, sheesha is the intoxicant of choice.
reviewed
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Mandaloun
Dress up for this elegant restaurant with stone walls and vaulted ceilings, where you'll be dining with Lattakia's affluent cigar-smoking power set. The French and Oriental cuisine is superb - try the tasty pink lentil soup or hearty traditional French onion soup, and the melt-in-your-mouth filet mignon. We can even recommend the fish - and we don't say that often in Syria. There are excellent Lebanese wines on the menu and superlative service.
reviewed
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E
Aldar Restaurant
In a chic conversion of an old Damascene building, stylishly blending old and new, Aldar dishes up some of the tastiest Syrian cuisine in the city, with creative touches added to classics. For starters, don't miss the tasty, cheese borek (filled pastry) and the spicy sojok meatballs with a green pepper, onion and tomato sauce. Book a table for the live jazz on Tuesday night. Alcohol served, credit cards accepted.
reviewed
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Haj Abdo al-Fawwal
Opening early every morning, this is the best place to get Aleppan-style foul (fava bean soup), delicately seasoned with cumin, paprika, garlic, lemon juice and fresh parsley. Crowds gather around the tiny shop from 07:00, bearing empty containers of every size and description, pushing and shoving their way to the front for their share of this aromatic dish. Don't leave Aleppo without trying some for yourself.
reviewed
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F
Abu al-Azz
This place is popular with locals as much as tourists - Arab families pack the place over summer. Look for the sign 'Rest. Al Ezz Al Shamieh Hall', then pass through the bustling ground-floor bakery and up a narrow staircase to two floors of dining; the upper level is the most atmospheric. Expect mezze, salads and kebabs, live Oriental music all day, and whirling dervishes in the evening from around 22:30. No alcohol served.
reviewed
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Al-Hallabi
This is the city's best restaurant, serving up refined Aleppan cuisine in opulent surroundings. Don't miss classics like kibbeh safarjalieh (kibbeh with quince and pomegranate sauce), or one of Chef Mohammed's own inventions such as shahba hommos (hummus with mouhamara - a spicy capsicum dip). There's excellent service and a superb wine list, and credit cards are accepted.
reviewed
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Downtown
You're more likely to hear French being spoken than Arabic at this hip contemporary café. It has sleek Scandinavian-style décor (think chocolate wood and clean lines) and the most decadently delicious sandwiches, salads and fresh juices in Damascus. Try the caviar en croute sandwich with cucumber, dill, caviar, cream cheese and a boiled egg, and the strawberry and blackberry juice.
reviewed
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Allegro
Lattakia's hippest restaurant is in a sleek contemporary space, with lots of chocolate wood and concealed lighting, that wouldn't be out of place in Beirut. It's a great spot for lunch, when it buzzes with noisy groups of locals enjoying the delicious food - a mix of Asian, Mexican, Italian and French that's served up on big white plates. The speciality is the chateaubriand. Alcohol is served.
reviewed
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Al-Andalib
This rooftop restaurant on the same block as the Baron Hotel is popular with travellers who eat early, around 18:00 to 19:00. Later on, after 22:00, it tends to locals only - mostly male, so women may feel uncomfortable. The menu includes kebabs, salads, fries, hummus and a baba ghanoug that's a purée of aubergines with tahini and olive oil. The food is fresh and beer is served.
reviewed
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Le Jardin
Overlooking the splendid An-Nuri Mosque, river and water wheels, and serving alcohol, this leafy, terrace café-restaurant is a wonderful place to while away a few hours puffing on a nargileh as you take in the atmosphere. Local families love it here, and on weekends fill their tables with plates of mezze and kebabs. It's part of the Apamee Cham Palace; credit cards are accepted.
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K
Elissar
The atmosphere in the lovely courtyard of this old Damascene favourite, with fairy lights and trickling fountain, surpasses the quality of food and service these days (both of which are hit and miss). However, it's popular with the diplomatic crowd, who garner more attention than most patrons. When the Syrian and French dishes are good they're great. Alcohol served, no credit cards.
reviewed
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Al-Arabi
Situated on a pedestrianised street off the southeastern corner of Al-Merjeh, Al-Arabi consists of two adjacent cheap restaurants, one more casual, the other a little fancier with a separate family section. Perhaps only for the culinary adventurous, specialities include sheep testicles, sheep-brain salad with potatoes, and the local favourite, fried sheep brain with two fried eggs.
reviewed
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Broasted Fawaz
In the couple of blocks along Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatli and its side streets, there are a number of cheap felafel, shwarma, kebab and chicken restaurants. Go to any that seem to be doing the most business with the locals. A long-standing favourite is Broasted Fawaz, for its deliciously succulent hot chickens and freshly fried hot potato crisps with garlic sauce.
reviewed
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Al-Khawali
Devotees swear the Syrian cuisine served here is some of the best in the city. Try the jedy bzeit (lamb with lemon sauce), shish taouk (marinated chicken on skewers) served in pottery Turkish-style, or the chef's special chicken and thyme. It's off Straight St, in a beautifully renovated old Damascene house. No alcohol or credit cards.
reviewed
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Gemini
This ever-popular eatery sees affluent groups of friends and families filling its tables for long leisurely meals. It's very Western, with a menu embracing Tex-Mex, French and Italian (from nachos and fajitas to pastas and veal escalope), good glasses of white wine, and Norah Jones on the stereo. Alcohol is served and credit cards are accepted.
reviewed
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Lacasta Café & More
Lattakia's multitasking locals sip excellent espresso coffee as they puff on nargileh and tuck into delicious cakes, crepes and desserts at this stylish café with white leather sofas and enormous glass windows. Sweets are prominent, but the friendly staff also serve up sandwiches and mezze, along with beer and alcoholic cocktails.
reviewed
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Olabi Patisserie
Follow your nose to this old-fashioned café-cum-patisserie - you can smell the freshly roasted coffee (espresso, cappuccino etc) a block away! Olabi bakes the city's best cakes, sweets and croissants, and does delicious crepes. There's free wireless internet access and during summer they also serve on the terrace across the road.
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Abu Rashid
Of the many pastry shops on the southern side of Al-Merjeh, one of the best is Abu Rashid, down the pedestrian lane on the southeastern corner of the square and up the top of the steps. It does delicious kibbeh, cheese or meat borek, and ouzi sarrar, a samosa-like pastry of rice, meat, peas and spices.
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Casablanca
While Damascenes dress up on weekend nights, when cheesy live piano music is on offer, management is forgiving of travellers dropping by this elegant local favourite in casual gear. The French-heavy menu also features delicious Syrian standards such as mezze mixed grills. Alcohol is served and credit cards are accepted.
reviewed
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La Casa
Popular with middle-class Damascenes, who hang out here for hours playing backgammon and smoking sheesha, this is one of the few places where you'll see local girls drinking nonalcoholic beer. The menu features sandwiches and pastas, but the big fresh salads are the local dish of choice. No alcohol or credit cards.
reviewed