Things to do in Lattakia
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Old House
This is one of Syria's most atmospheric restaurants. The interior of Old House has been decorated to look like the courtyard of an old house, with Mamluk-style banding on the walls, intricately patterned tiled floors, and traditional textiles for curtains. Devoted locals of all ages, but particularly Lattakia's old-timers, come for the rich Syrian specialities - the fried kibbeh and the sojouk (spicy Armenian sausages) are some of the best we've ever had.
Service is welcoming and accommodating, and alcohol is served.
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Shaati al-Azraq
Six kilometres north of town, Shaati al-Azraq is Syria's premier coastal resort. While there are a few small stretches of sand in the area, access to the best stretches of beach is controlled by the Le Meridien and Cham hotels; each charges a fee per person for nonguests to use the beach and hotel swimming pool. Both hotels also hire out pedal boats, jet skis and sailboards. To get to Shaati al-Azraq take a waiting microbus from behind the large white school building on Saahat al-Sheikh Daher.
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Mandaloun
Dress up for this elegant restaurant with stone walls and vaulted ceilings, where you'll be dining with Lattakia's affluent cigar-smoking power set. The French and Oriental cuisine is superb - try the tasty pink lentil soup or hearty traditional French onion soup, and the melt-in-your-mouth filet mignon. We can even recommend the fish - and we don't say that often in Syria. There are excellent Lebanese wines on the menu and superlative service.
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Allegro
Lattakia's hippest restaurant is in a sleek contemporary space, with lots of chocolate wood and concealed lighting, that wouldn't be out of place in Beirut. It's a great spot for lunch, when it buzzes with noisy groups of locals enjoying the delicious food - a mix of Asian, Mexican, Italian and French that's served up on big white plates. The speciality is the chateaubriand. Alcohol is served.
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Tetraporticus
Lattakia has precious little to show for its 3000 or so years of history. More or less the only existing monument is a right-angled Tetraporticus, a grouping of four columns, which is all that's left of a Roman gateway that once marked the eastern end of the 2nd-century-AD main street. It's on Sharia Bur Said, a short walk southwest of the train station.
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National Museum of Lattakia
The National Museum of Lattakia, near the waterfront, is housed in what was once an old khan, or travellers' inn, and is worth a quick visit, if just to admire the handsome building. It contains some written tablets from Ugarit, beautiful jewellery, coins and figurines, ceramics and pottery, and a Crusader-era chain-mail suit and swords.
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Lacasta Café & More
Lattakia's multitasking locals sip excellent espresso coffee as they puff on nargileh and tuck into delicious cakes, crepes and desserts at this stylish café with white leather sofas and enormous glass windows. Sweets are prominent, but the friendly staff also serve up sandwiches and mezze, along with beer and alcoholic cocktails.
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Olabi Patisserie
Follow your nose to this old-fashioned café-cum-patisserie - you can smell the freshly roasted coffee (espresso, cappuccino etc) a block away! Olabi bakes the city's best cakes, sweets and croissants, and does delicious crepes. There's free wireless internet access and during summer they also serve on the terrace across the road.
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Express Café
This gleaming diner-style cafeteria does excellent burgers, crepes and pizza. The menu is in English with prices. Pull up a seat at a window table for some people-watching on a weekend night, when Lattakia's teens flirt with each other on the street corner outside.
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Italian Corner Restaurant
This rustic trattoria, complete with checked tablecloths and waiters in red checked shirts, serves up tasty Italian pastas along with crepes, burgers and steaks. The big glass windows provide good people-watching opportunities and the place hums late at night.
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Snack Mamma
With its mirrored walls, wood panelling and hanging beads, this tiny Italian trattoria has an endearingly retro feel to it. Locals love the home-style spaghetti bolognaise, which flies out the door, and terrific pizzas. Beer is served.
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Chicken Takeaway
Cheap eats can be found around the Saahat al-Sheikh Daher area, where you'll find fast-food places specialising in felafel, kebabs and shwarma. There's a good spit-rotisserie chicken takeaway next door to the Hotel Riyad.
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Stop 5
Looking like Mike Brady's den with its wood-panelled walls and chocolate vinyl seats, this casual eatery serves up great pizzas, burgers and steaks, along with local/imported beers and local/imported wine by the glass.
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Cesar
In the narrow alley running along the south side of Al-Ajan Mosque, connecting with Sharia 8 Azar, Cesar does good mezze and grilled meats, along with a few Continental dishes such as escalopes and pastas.
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Main Market
The Main Market is just east of the Ugarit cinema. For bread and other groceries, there are a few little places down Sharia Ibrahim Hanano, off Sharia 14 Ramadan.
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Last Station
Popular with local families, this old-fashioned place does tasty food at very reasonable prices. Expect everything from Syrian mezze to pizza. Alcohol is served.
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Al-Boustan
Al-Boustan is a simple coffee shop where old men sip thick, Turkish-style coffee at the pavement tables. It's open almost all the time.
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Al-Montada
Al-Montada is a bit of a men's club, where the old guys puff on nargileh as they play chess and cards. It's open almost all the time.
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Fruit and Vegetable Market
There's a small Fruit and Vegetable Market just north of the big white high school on Sharia 14 Ramadan.
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