Things to do in Homs
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Khaled ibn al-Walid Mosque
Built as recently as the first decade of the 20th century, Homs' best-known monument, Khaled ibn al-Walid Mosque , is an attractive example of a Turkish-style mosque. The black-and-white Mamluk-style stone banding in the courtyard is particularly striking. Inside the prayer hall, over in one corner, is the domed mausoleum of Khaled ibn al-Walid, the military strategist and hero who conquered Syria for Islam in AD 636.
You can enter the mosque if dressed modestly. Women have to borrow a 'yishmak' (as they call the abeyya, or woman's cloak, here), cover their hair and also must enter through the small side door on the right to see the marble tomb. Do not enter during…
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Church of the Girdle of Our Lady
From the Christian Quarter along Sharia Abi al-Hawl, continue due east, straight over the crossroad, until you see a small gateway topped by a cross - this leads through a grey stone wall to the Church of the Girdle of Our Lady . In 1953 the patriarch of Antioch, Ignatius Aphraim, declared a delicate strip of woven wool and silk, found in the church six months earlier, to be a girdle worn by the Virgin Mary.
The story is that it had survived intact since the ascension of Mary into heaven, preserved in one container or another in a church on this spot. The church is an attractive little grey-stone building with a red pantile roof, and is still an active centre for Syrian…
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Souq
A few steps from the An-Nuri Mosque is Homs' restored old Souq, which buzzes in the evenings when the whole city seemingly comes out to shop. With its grey stones, vaulted ceilings and elegant white lamp posts, it's one of Syria's most attractive souqs. The artisans, carpenters, cobblers, metal-workers and knife-sharpeners sitting cross-legged on the floors of their workshops make it all the more fascinating, and it's an easy place to while away a couple of hours.
Great buys include gold, sheesha pipes, spices and clothes.
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Azze Hrawe
From the Church of the Girdle of Our Lady, follow the road that heads off to the north, taking the first right for the Azze Hrawe, a Mamluk-era residence of impressive size. It was being restored at the time of research and should soon open to the public as a National Folklore Museum. There's a beautiful big courtyard with a fountain and a liwan (summer room) featuring exquisite carved-wood decoration. Don't hesitate to knock on the door if it's closed; nobody minds you snooping around.
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Blue Stone
In a big grey stone building with huge picture windows looking out onto the street, this is the most happening bar-café-restaurant in the Christian Quarter. It positively hums in the evenings with the chatter of flirty young couples gazing into each other's eyes, same-sex groups of friends comparing rings (girls) and ring tones (boys), and families tucking into pizzas, pastas and big bowls of salad. While there's a full bar, sheesha is the intoxicant of choice.
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An-Nuri Mosque
A little way south of the roundabout at the eastern end of Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatli and tucked down a laneway is the unassuming 20th-century façade of the An-Nuri Mosque, which is actually much older than first appearances might suggest. Just north of the prayer hall, the mosque courtyard contains a curious long, low platform, and an ancient capital is embedded in the western end of the platform.
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Majmu al-Rawda al-Siyahi
This big, shady, garden café (whose name means something along the lines of 'Tourist Garden Association') is on the north side of the main street, close to the clock tower. A coffee here is a must just to take in the vibe, especially during summer evenings when the place is packed with locals.
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Beite
Next door to Majmu al-Rawda al-Siyahi, this is a chic, new, two-storey café. The name translates to 'my home'; you have to press the buzzer beside the massive wooden to enter. Its covered rooftop terrace is where Homs' affluent set meet.
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Fortified Wall
Little remains of the old city of Homs. Its walls and gates were largely demolished in the Ottoman era, although there is a short section of Fortified Wall with a circular corner tower just south of Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatli.
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Al-Shalal
Around the corner from City Cafe, there are a few more cheap takeaway places doing kebabs, hot chickens, felafel, hummus and salad, the best of which is Al-Shalal , where locals line up for succulent shwarmas and juices.
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Museum
In the big Department of Antiquities building on the main street, Homs' Museum contains a rather modest collection of artefacts, from prehistoric to early Islamic, unearthed in the region. Labelling is in Arabic only.
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Mamma Mia
This is one of Safir Hotel's two restaurants. In a cheery trattoria, it dishes up generous servings of hearty Italian to a predominantly local crowd. The pizzas and pastas are both excellent.
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Prince
- Homs, Syria
- Restaurants › Café
Prince is a basic snack joint serving up bigger-than-usual shwarmas, grilled chicken and other street-food standards, as well as fresh fruit juices.
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Abu Nawas
If you're heading to Mamma Mia at the Safir Hotel, you can also get a drink in this bar, which is 1970s retro and fairly low-key.
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Traditional Coffeehouse
This coffeehouse is in a big, old, atmospheric stone building and is largely frequented by backgammon-playing old men.
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Citadel Mound
Half a kilometre to the south of Homs, the large earthen Citadel Mound marks the site where a citadel once stood.
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City Cafe
- Homs, Syria
- Restaurants › Café
City Cafe serves up similar fare to Prince.
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