Damascus Restaurants

  1. Abu al-Azz

    This place is popular with locals as much as tourists - Arab families pack the place over summer. Look for the sign 'Rest. Al Ezz Al Shamieh Hall', then pass through the bustling ground-floor bakery and up a narrow staircase to two floors of dining; the upper level is the most atmospheric. Expect mezze, salads and kebabs, live Oriental music all day, and whirling dervishes in the evening from around . No alcohol served.

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  2. Al-Arabi

    Situated on a pedestrianised street off the southeastern corner of Al-Merjeh, Al-Arabi consists of two adjacent cheap restaurants, one more casual, the other a little fancier with a separate family section. Perhaps only for the culinary adventurous, specialities include sheep testicles, sheep-brain salad with potatoes, and the local favourite, fried sheep brain with two fried eggs.

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  3. Al-Hallabi

    This is the city's best restaurant, serving up refined Aleppan cuisine in opulent surroundings. Don't miss classics like kibbeh safarjalieh ( kibbeh with quince and pomegranate sauce), or one of Chef Mohammed's own inventions such as shahba hommos (hummus with mouhamara - a spicy capsicum dip). There's excellent service and a superb wine list, and credit cards are accepted.

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  4. Al-Khawali

    Devotees swear the Syrian cuisine served here is some of the best in the city. Try the jedy bzeit (lamb with lemon sauce), shish taouk (marinated chicken on skewers) served in pottery Turkish-style, or the chef's special chicken and thyme. It's off Straight St, in a beautifully renovated old Damascene house. No alcohol or credit cards.

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  5. Al-Masri

    Al-Masri 'The Egyptian' is popular with local office workers, with a menu featuring the kind of home-cooked fare you'd find in Cairo's backstreets, along with local favourites such as shakshouka (fried egg and mince meat) and shish taouk .

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  6. Al-Sehhi

    This modest family restaurant confines itself to the basics - mezze, grilled meats, and very good fatta (an oven-baked bread dish soaked in tahini and spread with chickpeas, minced meat or chicken). There's a separate 'family area' for women diners. No alcohol or cards.

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  7. Aldar Restaurant

    In a chic conversion of an old Damascene building, stylishly blending old and new, Aldar dishes up some of the tastiest Syrian cuisine in the city, with creative touches added to classics. For starters, don't miss the tasty, cheese borek (filled pastry) and the spicy sojok meatballs with a green pepper, onion and tomato sauce. Book a table for the live jazz on Tuesday night. Alcohol served, credit cards accepted.

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  8. Leila's Restaurant & Terrace

    This al fresco rooftop restaurant overlooking Umayyad Mosque has the most magical setting in Damascus, especially for sunset drinks - the fresh mint lemonade is thirst-quenching - or later for dinner when the city lights twinkle. The menu features delicious Arabic mezze - try the eggplant kibbeh (cracked-wheat croquettes) - and succulent grills. Alcohol is served, but it's not on the menu - ask the waiter what is available.

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