Things to do in Lugano
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Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angioli
The simple Romanesque Chiesa diSanta Mariadegli Angioli, against which a now crumbling former hotel was built, contains two frescos by Bernardino Luini dating from 1529. Covering the entire wall that divides the church in two is a grand didactic illustration of the Crucifixion. The closer you look, the more scenes of Christ’s Passion are revealed, along with others of him being taken down from the cross and his resurrection. The power and vivacity of the colours are astounding. Less alive is Luini’s depiction of the Last Supper on the left wall.
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Via Pretorio 9 (Cherry Building)
The pink brick Mario Botta office block is known to locals as the Cherry Building because of the cherry tree planted on the roof. It was designed by Lugano's Mario Botta (born 1943 in Mendrisio to the south), who has made an international name for himself as a leading light in contemporary architecture. Best known for his work abroad (like San Francisco's Museum of Modern Art and the Kyobo Tower in Seoul), Botta has also left an indelible mark on and around Lugano.
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Cyrano
Try to ignore the horrendous orange building and be soothed by the crisp interior and white linen. Out of the kitchen comes a mix of local cooking with broader Swiss and Mediterranean strands. The spadellata di camoscio al ginepro e sugo di caccia con spätzli al burro e cavolo rosso alle mele (pan-cooked chamois with juniper and game sauce, butter spätzli and red cabbage with apple) is a mouth-watering autumn Swiss country feast.
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Campione d’Italia
The 12-storey casino, converted by Lugano’s favourite architect, Mario Botta, into Europe’s biggest in 2005, does a brisk business. Smart dress is required. From noon to midnight you can take bus 39 from Lugano’s Piazza Manzoni (one-way/return Sfr6.80/13.60) to Campione d’Italia. The last return bus leaves at 12.40am, and then there’s one at 6.39am.
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Banca del Gottardo
Banca del Gottardo is a series of interconnected monoliths designed by Lugano's Mario Botta (born 1943 in Mendrisio to the south), who has made an international name for himself as a leading light in contemporary architecture. Best known for his work abroad (like San Francisco's Museum of Modern Art and the Kyobo Tower in Seoul), Botta has also left an indelible mark on and around Lugano.
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Bottegone del Vino
Favoured by the local banking brigade at lunchtime, this is a great place to taste fine local wines over a well-prepared meal. The menu changes daily and might include a filetto di rombo al vapore (steamed turbot fillet) or ravioli stuffed with fine Tuscan Chianina beef. Knowledgeable waiters fuss around the tables and are only too happy to suggest the perfect Ticino tipple.
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Museo del Cioccolato Alprose
Chomp into some cocoa culture at the Museo del Cioccolato Alprose. This is a great place to take the children or anyone with a sweet tooth. As well as getting a chocolate-coated history lesson, you can watch the sugary substance being made and enjoy a free tasting. The shop, cunningly, stays open half an hour longer. Take the Ferrovia Ponte Tresa train (Sfr7).
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San Bernardo
Head out of town for the warren of medieval alleys in Comano, where you'll discover this gourmet getaway. Opt for the summer pergola or muted designer dining room. The menu changes frequently and the emphasis is on slight twists to old recipes. The quadrotti di zucca (squares of pumpkin-filled pasta with a sweetish chestnut sauce) melt in the mouth. Take a taxi.
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Al Portone
For an upmarket meal, this place remains a sure bet for gourmands. It has a lunchtime set menu (Sfr58) and a tasting feast menu at night (Sfr120). How about the filetto di manzo gratinato alle cipolle rosse di Tropea e purea di patate (steak fillet au gratin with south Italian red onions and mashed potato) ?
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L’Antica Osteria del Porto
Set back from Lugano’s sailing club, this is the place for savouring local fish and Ticinese dishes. It’s hard to resist the grigliata mista di pesci di mare e crostacei (mixed fish and shellfish grill). The terrace overlooking the Cassarate stream is pleasant, and you also have lake views.
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Weber & Bläuer
One of the main shopping strips is Via Nassa, lined with purveyors of Swiss watches (what else?!), Italian fashion, cigar shops and jewellery stores. An intriguing store is the timeless Weber & Bläuer, which sells antiques and old jewellery.
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Café Time
For Italian-style aperitif time, Café Time, buried inside an unlikely little shopping arcade, attracts the local movers and shakers. Relax against the high-backed burgundy leather benches over a fine wine or cocktail with tasty bar snacks.
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Privilege
Downstairs from street level and easily missed, this is the most central club in town. There are a couple of separate areas, including one for smokers! With go-go girls and guys, and the occasional spurt of live music, it attracts a pretty mixed crowd.
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Museo delle Culture Extraeuropee
About 1.7km from central Lugano, in Villa Heleneum, is the Museo delle Culture Extraeuropee. The brew of tribal relics from far-off countries includes a collection of masks and statues soaked in sexuality. Take bus 1.
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Grand Café Al Porto
This café, which began life way back in 1803, has several fine rooms for dining too. Be sure to take a look at the frescoed Cenacolo Fiorentino, once a monastery dining hall, upstairs. It’s used for private functions.
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Soho Café
So that’s where they are! All those good-looking Lugano townies crowd in to this long, orange-lit bar for cocktails. Chilled DJ music creates a pleasant buzz. The problem might be squeezing through to the bar!
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Morandi
A stalwart of Lugano’s dance scene, this multi-space club (including asphyxiating smoking room) places a fairly steady house diet and attracts a crowd that ranges from 17 to 47. Pink is the dominating hue.
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La Lanchetta
Sitting on the lake opposite the Hotel Cassarate Lago, this hip, dimly lit bar is perfect for pre-dinner drinks. Furniture and dress sense is black, although there is a little tongue-shaped snug that glows white.
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Al Lido
Lugano’s lakeside beach restaurant is especially popular for its Sunday buffet brunch (Sfr36.50). They also do a Wednesday evening version, Lunar (6.30pm to 1am), for the same price and with DJ thrown in.
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Macelleria Gabbani
You’ll find it hard to miss the giant sausages hanging out the front of this irresistible delicatessen. The same people operate a tempting cheese shop, the Bottega del Formaggio, across the road at No 13.
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New Orleans Club
New Orleans Club, a lively spot from Thursday to Saturday nights, has Latin, hip-hop and disco nights. Deeply dark inside, there’s also room for a smoko outside.
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Casinò Lugano
Can’t be bothered going to the huge casino in Campione d’Italia? No problem, you can lose your money in the rather lurid Casinò Lugano.
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Galleria Gottardo
Galleria Gottardo is a private foundation of the BSI (formerly Banca del Gottardo) bank, which puts on exhibitions ranging from sculpture to photography.
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Lido
East of the Cassarate stream is the Lido, with beaches and a swimming pool. You can hire pedalos (Sfr18 per hour) by the boat landing.
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Desperados
This late-night disco bar is hot, cramped and sweaty - in other words the perfect nightclub. The entrance is on a tiny square off Vicolo Orfanotrofio.
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