Things to do in Graubünden
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Therme Vals
Using 60,000 slabs of local quartzite and playing on light to amplify the feeling of space, Zumthor created one of the country’s most enchanting thermal spas, Therme Vals. Aside from heated indoor and outdoor pools, this grey-stone labyrinth hides all sorts of watery nooks and crannies, cleverly lit and full of cavernous atmosphere. Try the deep-heat Feuerbad (42°C), the perfumed Blütenbad or the escapist Grottenbad. Have a hum in the latter and enjoy the other-worldly acoustics! Sweat out all those impurities in the steam rooms.
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Tamina Therme
The perfect cure for a bad case of Heidiness could be spa town Bad Ragaz, a couple of kilometres west of Maienfeld, which opened in 1840 and has attracted the bath-loving likes of Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford. Tamina Therme, a couple of kilometres south of town, was getting a makeover at the time of writing, but should reopen in summer 2009; call ahead or check online for times and prices. Bad Ragaz is on the Chur–Zürich train line. Trains from Chur via Maienfeld run hourly (Sfr8.20, 15 minutes).
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Heidihaus
At Heidihaus, where of course she never lived because she never existed, you could visit the Heidishop to buy Heidi colouring-in books, Heidi videos or just plain Heidikitsch. For little-girl-of-the-Alps overkill, you could follow the Heidiweg into the surrounding hills (Heidialp). When you’re done, you might be in need of some Heidiwein for your Heidiheadache…or perhaps just hit the A13 road and Heiditail it out of here north into Liechtenstein.
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Swiss National Park Centre
At the brand-new, hands-on Swiss National Park Centre, you can explore a marmot hole, eyeball adders in the vivarium and learn about conservation and environmental change. The tourist office here can provide details on hikes in the park, including the three-hour trudge from S-chanf to Alp Trupchun, particularly popular in autumn, when you might spy rutting deer; and the Naturlehrpfad circuit near Il Fuorn, where bearded vultures are often sighted.
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Hatecke
Edible art is the only way to describe the organic, locally sourced delicacies at Hatecke. Bündnerfleisch (air-dried beef) and melt-in-your-mouth venison ham are carved into wafer-thin slices on a century-old slicing machine in this speciality shop. Take a seat on a sheepskin stool in the funky café next door to lunch on delicious Engadine beef carpaccio or Bündnerfleisch with truffle oil.
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Parc Ela
Dropping southwest of Davos towards Tiefencastel, you enter the wilderness of Switzerland’s biggest nature park, Parc Ela, which opened in 2006 to protect the region’s biotope and boost its weak economy. Spanning 600 sq km and encompassing 21 communities in the Albula–Bergün and Savognin–Bivio areas, the park is three and a half times the size of the Swiss National Park.
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Schloss Brandis
Make for Schloss Brandis, a lofty 15th-century tower housing one of the canton’s best restaurants. You can almost picture the hog-roast feasting of yore in the beamed, lantern-lit dining room, where folk tuck into Maienfeld riesling soup and meatier specialities.
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Jöhri’s Talvo
Set in a converted 17th-century Engadine farmhouse in nearby Champfér, this gourmet haunt shines with two Michelin stars. Light pine, crisp white linen and candles create a backdrop for French taste sensations, such as Pyrenean milk-fed lamb and bouillabaisse (fish stew).
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Chesa Veglia
This slate-roofed, chalk-white chalet is St Moritz’ oldest restaurant, dating from 1658. The rustic interior is all low beams and creaking wood floors, while the terrace affords great views. Thin and crisp wood-oven pizzas are a good pick, as are the herby lamb cutlets.
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Alphütte Sanaspans
The cosy Alphütte Sanaspans, where the cheery owners serve refreshments to outside tables literally until the cows come home. Sample their homemade organic bread and creamy cheese, or nut tart with a glass of fresh-from-the-cow buttermilk.
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Giger Bar
For sci-fi encounters today, visit the space-age Giger Bar, a silver-black phantasmagoria of biomechanical artwork with chairs like ribcages, tendril-like mirrors and the odd extraterrestrial where you least expect it…
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LinX-Beisl
LinX-Beisl makes a great pit stop for a salad or slice of homemade plum strudel. Wolfgang can arrange rafting and kayaking excursions here. There is also basic dorm accommodation (Sfr30 per night with own sleeping bag).
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Roo Bar
After a hard day’s skiing or boarding, snow bums fill the terrace of this après-ski joint at Hauser’s Hotel. Hip hop, techno and copious quantities of schnapps fuel the party.
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Vinothek Von Salis
For wine tasting, head to convivial Vinothek von Salis, where Frau Möhr will tell you everything you need to know about the local tipples if your German is up to it.
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Engadiner Museum
For a peek at the archetypal dwellings and humble interiors of the Engadine Valley, visit the Engadiner Museum, showing traditional stoves and archaeological finds.
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Engiadina
A proper locals’ place, Engiadina is famous for fondue, and that’s the best thing to eat here. Champagne gives the melted cheese a kick. It’s open year-round.
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Segantini Museum
Giovanni Segantini (1858–99) beautifully captured the dramatic light and ambience of the Alps on canvas. His paintings are shown at the Segantini Museum.
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Seerestaurant Forellenstube
Hailed for the freshness of its trout, this lakefront restaurant is worth the 2km toddle north of Lenzerheide. Go for the fish or specialities such as homemade venison sausage.
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Bobby’s Pub
Laid-back and friendly, this English-style watering hole serves 30 different brews and attracts young snowboarders in season. It’s among the few places open year-round.
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Schweizer Skischule
The first Swiss ski school was founded in St Moritz in 1929. Today you can arrange skiing or snowboarding tuition (Sfr70 per day) at the Schweizer Skischule.
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St Martinskirche
St Martinskirche has a wooden Romanesque ceiling that bears 153 extraordinarily vivid panels depicting the lives of Christ and St Martin.
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Medizinisches Therapiezentrum Heilbad
Rest in a mineral bath or with a mud pack at Medizinisches Therapiezentrum Heilbad.
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Klostermuseum
Klostermuseum is crammed with memorabilia on the history of the monastery.
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