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Ho's
Despite the name, this no-fuss joint serves up respectable Cantonese/Sichuan cooking. Matriarch Ho Yuk Yee's dumplings are divine, and usually the first thing to run out, so get in early or request them a day ahead.
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Hötorgshallen
Located in the basement below Filmstaden cinema, this electric food market serves up the best of multicultural Stockholm, from garlic souvlakis to hearty delicate prosciutto. Bag some Swedish berries, bite into baklava or bag a table at galley-themed Kaysas Fiskrestaurang for huge bowls of fish stew with mussels, aioli and a free small beer.
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Il Caffè
Low-strung lights, angst-ridden writers and edgy graphic murals by Stockholm graffiti artist Finsta (www.finstafari.com) load this local hangout with boho grit. Italian-leaning lunch options include authentic focaccias - go with the pesto/mozzarella combo, made to an old-school Italian recipe. Finish off with a jumbo-sized caffè latte, then flip out that Moleskine and work on that plot.
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Koh Phangan
A gay cruising venue in a previous life, this outrageously kitsch Thai restaurant has to be seen to be believed. Chow down on pad thai in a real tuk-tuk to the accompanying racket of crickets and a tropical thunderstorm, or take on the fiery red curry at a glass-covered bathtub complete with bubbles. Book ahead or wait an hour.
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Konditori Ritorno
The cosy back room at this unpresumptuous café looks like the lobby of an antique movie house fallen on hard times. A hit with writers, students and pensioners, its worn leather couches and miniature jukeboxes at every table make it a perfect pitstop for old-school shrimp sandwiches and heavenly semla buns.
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Kungsholmen
Owned by celebrity chef Melker Andersson (F12, Grill), this sexed-up food court features six open kitchens cooking up six specialties - soup, sushi, grill, bistro, bread or ice cream. Add a sleek long bar (try a Pumpkin Patch - Havana Club, Especial, sea buckthorn marmalade, lemon juice, sugar and champagne), weekend DJs and a languid lakeside setting, and you'll understand why it's best to book.
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Lao Wai
You can forget about soggy chickpea mush at Lao Wai, arguably the best vegetarian joint in town. The slick Chinese repertoire includes a superb gluten-free and vegan Ma Po Dou Fu (spicy Sichuan vegetarian 'meat' dressed in chilli bean sauce, ginger, garlic and spring onion) and the equally irresistible Hong Shao Su Rou (soy 'meat', champignons, Chinese broccoli, cloud ears, sweet pepper braised in a five-spice soy sauce).
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Leijontornet
Award-winning Leijontornet boasts the ruins of a 14th-century defence tower in its über-elegant dining room. But that's where the history ends, with culinary creations like squid with burnt leek or fried Mutzu apple with spruce tree jelly and tar ice-cream pushing the culinary envelope. The trendy in-house bar serves up fab mid-priced fare and smooth DJ-spun tunes on Friday and Saturday.
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Lisa Elmqvist
Seafood fans, look no further. This Stockholm legend, suitably snug inside Stockholm's historic Östermalms Saluhall, is never short of a satisfied lunchtime crowd. The menu changes daily, so let the waiters order for you; whether its lobster pancakes or seared Sichuan pepper char fillets, you won't be disappointed. In the warmer months, sup in the sun at sister bistro Lisa på Torget, slap bang on the square outside.
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Lisa På Udden
Baby sister to venerable seafood restaurant Lisa Elmqvist, this laidback waterside hotspot serves up classic Swedish seafood like toast skagen garnished with troutroe and a divine kalix bleakroe. In the summertime, work up an appetite by catching the ferry here from Nybroplan and getting off at Biskopsudden 10min later.
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Lo Scudetto
Picky Italians would find little to fault at this Latin legend. Decked out in gilded golden mirrors, candlelight and red velvet drapes, there's not a chequered tablecloth or kebab pizza in sight. Preened waiters know their Chianti from their Badiola, the chef hand-makes the pasta all'uovo and curtained-off tables make for cosy tête-à-têtes.
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Lux Dessert Och Choklad
Little brother to Lux Stockholm, this is the haute patisserie of celebrated confectioner Ted Johansson, who devised the dessert menu for the 2005 Nobel Banquet. Throw your scales to the wind.
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Lux Stockholm
Lux by name, luxe by nature, this Michelin star hotspot is run by Bocuse d'Or silver medal winner Henrik Norström. Expect obscenely original creations like spiced lobster with almond milk and duck with pistachio and ginger, all served in what was once the Electrolux factory canteen. Needless to say, book ahead (by the window in winter, on the terrace in summer).
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Mistral
Nabbing itself a Michelin star in its first year on the scene, this stripped-back 18-seat restaurant has been booked solid since its debut in 2003. The star attraction is young chef Fredrik Andersson and his bold takes on robust Provençal cuisine, from mackerel sashimi layered with crisp pig's skin and oyster foam to langoustine tartare drizzled with roasted apple sorbet. Bookings essential.
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Moderna Museet
As if the Dalis weren't enough, Moderna Museet has gone and turned itself into a foodie hotspot with its Marge-designed restaurant. Run by celebrity chef Malin Söderström, it's split into the cafeteria-style Brickan (The Tray) and á la carte Duken (The Table Cloth). Both serve sharp, global fare with a side of gorgeous city views. Book ahead for the weekend brunch sessions (noon to Saturday and Sunday).
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Mooncake
Stick a Hong Kong chef behind a wok and watch the crowds roll in. The inventive menu at this elegant Eastern hotspot makes tummies rumble with the likes of crispy rösti crab and prawn cakes and the delicate drunken Szechuan duck with tamarind-chilli glaze. It's all sublime and complemented by discreet, near-perfect service.
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Nystekt Strömming
As you'd expect from its name (Newly Fried Herring), you'll get some of the best fried herring in Stockholm from this little caravan outside the tunnelbana station at Slussen. Facing it is another street-smart star, Suovas.
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Operakällaren
If you plan on proposing over dinner, this is the place to do it. Set inside Stockholm's 19th-century opera house, its decadent chandeliers, golden mirrors and exquisitely carved ceilings are elegantly paired with classic French fare fused with subtle contemporary twists. Gents, wear a suit and tie, and book a table at least two weeks ahead.
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Pelikan
High ceilings, wood-panelling and no-nonsense waiters in waistcoats set the scene for classic husmanskost (traditional Swedish fare) at this century-old beer hall. The superb menu includes an assortment of herring and cheeses and superbly roasted spare-ribs served with red cabbage and apple puree. Add huge beer glasses and you're set for an epic toast to Sverige.
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Pontus In The Greenhouse
Plush Pontus looks like a spread for Architectural Digest with its comfy contemporary sofas and fireplace stacked with books and magazines. The award-winning French-leaning menu includes a decadent seven-course tasting menu ( Sk995 , Sk1890 with wine), which means you don't have to choose between the grilled halibut with lobster sausage, breast of mallard with truffle poached cabbage or the confit of arctic char with Avruga caviar.
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Republik
Republik's trés urbane bar was voted Stockholm's best back in 2006 (try a Gasper cocktail and you'll see why), yet the ultimate indulgence here is the adjoining restaurant, where the vibe is suave, the staff clued-up and the French-influenced food scandalously good (the seared scallops with truffle risoni, jamón Serrano, romanesco and fennel dill will leave you with a post-dinner glow).
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Roppongi
It might be a long way to Tokyo, but you'd never know it at this sushi star. From the succulent sword fish okonomi to the Kubota sake, it's all top-notch and craved by faithful locals, so book ahead for dinner.
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Rosendals Trädgård
A 15-minute walk from Hazeliusporten, virtuous Rosendals Trädgård is seasonal, salubrious and oh-so-loveable. It's best known for its heavenly desserts and sandwiches, all organic and mostly made with produce from the garden. Devour flaky fruit pastries under the apple trees or, if the weather's ugly, skulk around the greenhouses, look moody and pretend you're Strindberg.
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Roxy
Laid-back but never short on chic, Roxy draws an erudite mix of lipstick lesbians, publishing types and Söder-style socialites, all smitten with modern-Med mains and tapas treats (think soy-marinated tuna with mango). Roll in some tango tunes, the odd brusque Spanish waitress, and all that's missing is Frida Kahlo at the bar.
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Sabai-Soong
Super kitsch Sabai-Soong is keeping it real despite the snooty address. A hit with families and fashionistas alike, its tropical-trash day-glo interior is the perfect place to chow down simple and faithful versions of tod man pla and fiery green curry.
