Stockholm Restaurants

  1. Café Lillavi

    Set in sidewalk kiosk, this cute-as-a-button café is run by two chatty friends, Therece and Victoria, and Victoria's dad, Mats. Choose a table (there are two), sit on a sheepskin chair and tackle Victoria's aunt's devilish chocolate cake. Of course, the virtuous can always opt for the organic Thai pie served with homemade mash and red-wine sauce.

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  2. Café Saturnus

    Everyone from yummy-mummies to peckish princesses flock here for Gallic-inspired baguettes, pastries and creamy café au lait . While Saturnus' claim that it was the first to introduce Stockholm to 'proper' coffee is hotly contested, there's little doubt that its kanelbullar (cinnamon bun) is the city's biggest... and dare we say its best.

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  3. Chaikhana

    Haughtily tucked away from the camera-toting hordes, this cosy tea salon is a hit with discerning locals. Join them for afternoon sessions of tea-sipping, pastry-nibbling and oh-so-subtle eavesdropping. If the strawberry and champagne mousse is on the menu, look no further.

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  4. Il Caffè

    Low-strung lights, angst-ridden writers and edgy graphic murals by Stockholm graffiti artist Finsta (www.finstafari.com) load this local hangout with boho grit. Italian-leaning lunch options include authentic focaccias - go with the pesto/mozzarella combo, made to an old-school Italian recipe. Finish off with a jumbo-sized caffè latte, then flip out that Moleskine and work on that plot.

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  5. Konditori Ritorno

    The cosy back room at this unpresumptuous café looks like the lobby of an antique movie house fallen on hard times. A hit with writers, students and pensioners, its worn leather couches and miniature jukeboxes at every table make it a perfect pitstop for old-school shrimp sandwiches and heavenly semla buns.

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  6. Rosendals Trädgård

    A 15-minute walk from Hazeliusporten, virtuous Rosendals Trädgård is seasonal, salubrious and oh-so-loveable. It's best known for its heavenly desserts and sandwiches, all organic and mostly made with produce from the garden. Devour flaky fruit pastries under the apple trees or, if the weather's ugly, skulk around the greenhouses, look moody and pretend you're Strindberg.

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  7. Sturekatten

    Looking like a life-sized doll's house, this vintage cafe is a fetching blend of antique chairs, oil paintings, ladies who lunch and waitresses in black-and-white garb. Slip into a salon chair, pour some tea and nibble civilly on the must-try apple pie and cinnamon scrolls.

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  8. Svart Kaffe

    Smack bang in SoFo, this hole-in-the wall café pumps out smooth tunes, fresh fodder and mean espressos to a hip crowd of writers and indie fashionistas. Order a chevré and walnut bagel, pull up a stool and start brainstorming that art-house masterpiece.

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