Things to do in Småland
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Kronobergs Slott
In 1542, the Småland rebel Nils Dacke spent Christmas in Kronobergs Slott, now a ruin. The 14th-century castle is on a small island (reached by footbridge) in photogenic Helgasjön lake, about 8km north of the town.
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Kalmar Slott
Fairy-tale turrets, a drawbridge, a foul dungeon and secret passages…yes, Kalmar Slott has everything that a proper castle should. This powerful Renaissance building was once the most important in Sweden, and it’s fortified accordingly. It also boasts one of the best-preserved interiors from the period. King Erik’s chamber is a real scene-stealer. Erik’s rivalry with his brother Johan caused him to install a secret passage in the loo! There’s also a superb suspended ceiling in the Golden Hall; eye-boggling wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling marquetry in the Chequered Hall; an elaborate bed, stolen as war booty then carefully vandalised so that no Danish ghosts could haun…
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Grönåsens Ålgpark
For a close encounter with a beautiful bandy-legged elk, head for Grönåsens Ålgpark, Sweden’s biggest elk park, located 3km west of Kosta towards Orrefors. You can admire these gentle creatures on a 1.3km walk in the forested enclosure (Skr40). Ironically, you can also buy elk sausages to roast on the outdoor barbecue or purchase an elk-skin baseball cap. And, talking of horror, don’t miss the display in the building behind the shop: you’ll drive 50% slower after you’ve seen the crumpled metal and lolling tongue…
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Marinmuseum
The striking Marinmuseum is the national naval museum. Dive in for reconstructions of a battle deck in wartime, a hall full of fantastic figureheads, piles of model boats, and even some of the real thing – such as a minesweeper, a sailing ship and the Swedish navy’s debut submarine. Temporary exhibitions move beyond the marine (a recent show focused on contemporary Polish art) and the savvy cafe boasts generous servings and waterside decking for a satisfying recharge.
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Kosta Boda
Kosta is where Glasriket started in 1742. Today the Kosta Boda complex pulls in coach-loads of visitors, who raid the vast discount outlets (there’s even discounted designer threads these days). Funnily, Sweden even manages to make its tourist traps pleasant places. The Kosta Boda exhibition gallery (Skr30) contains some inspired creations. There are plenty of glass-blowing demos in the old factory quarters, and some great cafes and restaurants, too.
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Kalmar Länsmuseum
The highlight of this fine museum, in an old steam mill by the harbour, are finds from the 17th-century flagship Kronan. The ship exploded and sank just before a battle in 1676, with the loss of almost 800 men. It was rediscovered in 1980, and over 22,000 wonderfully preserved items have been excavated so far, including a spectacular gold hoard, clothing and musical instruments.
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Madesjö Hembygdsgård
There’s a superior homestead museum Madesjö Hembygdsgård, about 2.5km west of town. Housed inside the 200m-long kyrkstallarna (former church stables), it contains an admirable collection, with cannonballs, clothing, coffins, carpenters tools, a classroom and a fantastic (ice-) cycle – and they’re just the things beginning with ‘C’.
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Utvandrarnas Hus
Utvandrarnas Hus boasts engrossing displays on the emigration of over one million Swedes to America (1850–1930). It also includes a replica of Vilhelm Moberg’s office and original manuscripts of his famous emigration novels. The centre also houses an excellent research facility (open Tuesday to Friday only, reservations advised) for those tracing their Swedish ancestors.
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Orrefors
Established in 1898, Orrefors is arguably the most famous of Sweden’s glassworks. The huge site is home to a factory with glass-blowing demonstrations, plus a large shop with a shipping service. The ubersleek museum-gallery showcases a range of stunning glassworks spanning 1910 to the present day, as well housing a stylish bar-cum-cafe Kristallbaren.
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Trefaldighetskyrkan
Karlskrona’s monumental square, Stortorget, was planned to rival Europe’s best. Alas, the funds ran out, resulting in a somewhat odd mix of grand architectural gestures and humble stand-ins. Dominating the square are the courthouse, along with the baroque church Fredrikskyrkan and Trefaldighetskyrkan, inspired by Rome’s Pantheon.
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Fredrikskyrkan
Karlskrona’s monumental square, Stortorget, was planned to rival Europe’s best. Alas, the funds ran out, resulting in a somewhat odd mix of grand architectural gestures and humble stand-ins. Dominating the square are the courthouse, along with the baroque church Fredrikskyrkan and Trefaldighetskyrkan, inspired by Rome’s Pantheon.
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Blekinge Museum
The evocative Blekinge Museum explores the local fishing, boat-building and quarrying trades. The most captivating part is Grevagården, an impressively preserved 18th-century abode crammed with thousands of vintage objects, from fans and fashion to bizarre wax models of syphilis-plagued faces. Topping it off is a petite baroque garden and a pleasant cafe.
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Domkyrkan
Looking like an ode to Pippi Longstocking, the bizarre Domkyrkan has been struck by lightning and repeatedly ravaged by fire – the latest renovation was in 1995. Waiting inside is a fine 15th-century altar and a whimsical contemporary sculpture by Erik Höglund. Don’t miss the Viking rune stone in the eastern wall.
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Montmartre
Next door to the Museum Leonardo da Vinci Ideale, the atmospheric Montmartre evokes a French bistro with its wine-red drapes, tasselled lampshades and oil paintings. The menu is a worldlier affair, with pizzas, Swedish favourites and zestier fusion numbers such as grilled tuna with wasabi, lime and chilli.
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Riksglasskolan
In a recently renovated 19th-century cottage opposite the hostel, Orrefors Bed & Breakfast has simple yet comfortable rooms with shared facilities. The friendly owners run short summer courses in glass-blowing (three hours, Skr300) at the nearby Riksglasskolan.
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PM & Vänner
Stylish and sexy, PM & Vänner serves up new-school Swedish flavours with global twists. Local produce sparkles in dishes like lumpsucker roe with yoghurt jelly, apple- and citrus foam, oatmeal crunch and potatoes, while the occasional DJ sets keep fashionable foodies humming.
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Bistrobar
The glam new kid in town, this restaurant-bar combo has an enviable location on a fountain-studded square. While the chocolate wicker lounges and Café del Mar tunes make for a perfect vino session, ditch the overpriced, underwhelming mains for the more satisfying pizzas.
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Goa
Veggies and diners with a conscience will love this small, welcoming café, decorated with bright Mexican colours and cacti. It serves tasty lunches of lasagne, soup, salads, quiches and so on, that you can wash down with a healthy smoothie or Fair Trade tea.
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O'Leary's
Nearby, this Boston-style sports bar has outdoor seating on the square, and is a crowd-pleaser on summer evenings. Food is of the type that goes well with beer: fajitas, ribs, chicken wings and burgers. It turns into a lively spot later in the evening.
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Restaurang Källaren Kronan
Six cellars have been transformed into a high-calibre experience, where a select evening menu is served under a cosy vaulted ceiling. There’s even a 17th century–inspired menu, with mains like wild boar fillet with apple and plum compote.
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Hamnkrogen
Right on the guest harbour, easy-going Hamnkrogen keeps punters chuffed with pizzas, steaks and grills. If you fancy something spicier, opt for the great tandoori dishes, baltis and biryanis, cooked by the restaurant’s Indian chef.
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Mats Jonasson Factory
The large and popular Mats Jonasson factory, 8km further northwest in Målerås, sells somewhat kitsch engraved glass-animal designs from around Skr159. There’s also a restaurant for a post-shopping refuel.
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Nivå
Just off Stortorget, this slinky steakhouse has an excellent menu of light, well-priced dishes (nachos, burgers, salads), plus heartier meals from the grill. It’s also a popular evening bar; its doors stay open until at least 1am.
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Byttan
Set in the park by the castle, sassy resto-bar Byttan combines a chi-chi terrace with velour lounges and a crackling fire inside. The bistro-style menu ranges from grilled meats to salads, with a competent cocktail list to sex things up.
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Krusenstiernska Gården
Krusenstiernska Gården is a stuck-in-time 19th-century middle-class home, around 500m from the castle’s entrance. Tours of the house are on the hour, but entry to the beautiful gardens and cafe is free.
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