Sights in Småland
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Kronobergs Slott
In 1542, the Småland rebel Nils Dacke spent Christmas in Kronobergs Slott, now a ruin. The 14th-century castle is on a small island (reached by footbridge) in photogenic Helgasjön lake, about 8km north of the town.
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Kalmar Slott
Fairy-tale turrets, a drawbridge, a foul dungeon and secret passages…yes, Kalmar Slott has everything that a proper castle should. This powerful Renaissance building was once the most important in Sweden, and it’s fortified accordingly. It also boasts one of the best-preserved interiors from the period. King Erik’s chamber is a real scene-stealer. Erik’s rivalry with his brother Johan caused him to install a secret passage in the loo! There’s also a superb suspended ceiling in the Golden Hall; eye-boggling wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling marquetry in the Chequered Hall; an elaborate bed, stolen as war booty then carefully vandalised so that no Danish ghosts could…
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Grönåsens Ålgpark
For a close encounter with a beautiful bandy-legged elk, head for Grönåsens Ålgpark, Sweden’s biggest elk park, located 3km west of Kosta towards Orrefors. You can admire these gentle creatures on a 1.3km walk in the forested enclosure (Skr40). Ironically, you can also buy elk sausages to roast on the outdoor barbecue or purchase an elk-skin baseball cap. And, talking of horror, don’t miss the display in the building behind the shop: you’ll drive 50% slower after you’ve seen the crumpled metal and lolling tongue…
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Marinmuseum
The striking Marinmuseum is the national naval museum. Dive in for reconstructions of a battle deck in wartime, a hall full of fantastic figureheads, piles of model boats, and even some of the real thing – such as a minesweeper, a sailing ship and the Swedish navy’s debut submarine. Temporary exhibitions move beyond the marine (a recent show focused on contemporary Polish art) and the savvy cafe boasts generous servings and waterside decking for a satisfying recharge.
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Kosta Boda
Kosta is where Glasriket started in 1742. Today the Kosta Boda complex pulls in coach-loads of visitors, who raid the vast discount outlets (there’s even discounted designer threads these days). Funnily, Sweden even manages to make its tourist traps pleasant places. The Kosta Boda exhibition gallery (Skr30) contains some inspired creations. There are plenty of glass-blowing demos in the old factory quarters, and some great cafes and restaurants, too.
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Kalmar Länsmuseum
The highlight of this fine museum, in an old steam mill by the harbour, are finds from the 17th-century flagship Kronan. The ship exploded and sank just before a battle in 1676, with the loss of almost 800 men. It was rediscovered in 1980, and over 22,000 wonderfully preserved items have been excavated so far, including a spectacular gold hoard, clothing and musical instruments.
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Madesjö Hembygdsgård
There’s a superior homestead museum Madesjö Hembygdsgård, about 2.5km west of town. Housed inside the 200m-long kyrkstallarna (former church stables), it contains an admirable collection, with cannonballs, clothing, coffins, carpenters tools, a classroom and a fantastic (ice-) cycle – and they’re just the things beginning with ‘C’.
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Utvandrarnas Hus
Utvandrarnas Hus boasts engrossing displays on the emigration of over one million Swedes to America (1850–1930). It also includes a replica of Vilhelm Moberg’s office and original manuscripts of his famous emigration novels. The centre also houses an excellent research facility (open Tuesday to Friday only, reservations advised) for those tracing their Swedish ancestors.
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Orrefors
Established in 1898, Orrefors is arguably the most famous of Sweden’s glassworks. The huge site is home to a factory with glass-blowing demonstrations, plus a large shop with a shipping service. The ubersleek museum-gallery showcases a range of stunning glassworks spanning 1910 to the present day, as well housing a stylish bar-cum-cafe Kristallbaren.
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Trefaldighetskyrkan
Karlskrona’s monumental square, Stortorget, was planned to rival Europe’s best. Alas, the funds ran out, resulting in a somewhat odd mix of grand architectural gestures and humble stand-ins. Dominating the square are the courthouse, along with the baroque church Fredrikskyrkan and Trefaldighetskyrkan, inspired by Rome’s Pantheon.
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Fredrikskyrkan
Karlskrona’s monumental square, Stortorget, was planned to rival Europe’s best. Alas, the funds ran out, resulting in a somewhat odd mix of grand architectural gestures and humble stand-ins. Dominating the square are the courthouse, along with the baroque church Fredrikskyrkan and Trefaldighetskyrkan, inspired by Rome’s Pantheon.
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Blekinge Museum
The evocative Blekinge Museum explores the local fishing, boat-building and quarrying trades. The most captivating part is Grevagården, an impressively preserved 18th-century abode crammed with thousands of vintage objects, from fans and fashion to bizarre wax models of syphilis-plagued faces. Topping it off is a petite baroque garden and a pleasant cafe.
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Domkyrkan
Looking like an ode to Pippi Longstocking, the bizarre Domkyrkan has been struck by lightning and repeatedly ravaged by fire – the latest renovation was in 1995. Waiting inside is a fine 15th-century altar and a whimsical contemporary sculpture by Erik Höglund. Don’t miss the Viking rune stone in the eastern wall.
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Mats Jonasson Factory
The large and popular Mats Jonasson factory, 8km further northwest in Målerås, sells somewhat kitsch engraved glass-animal designs from around Skr159. There’s also a restaurant for a post-shopping refuel.
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Krusenstiernska Gården
Krusenstiernska Gården is a stuck-in-time 19th-century middle-class home, around 500m from the castle’s entrance. Tours of the house are on the hour, but entry to the beautiful gardens and cafe is free.
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Amiralitetskyrkan
Sweden’s oldest wooden church is the stocky Amiralitetskyrkan, whose gorgeous pastel interior is worth a peek. Outside, the wooden statue Old Rosenbom raises his hat to charitable visitors.
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Smålands Museum
Smålands Museum has a superb exhibition about Sweden’s 500-year-old glass industry, with objects spanning medieval goblets to cutting-edge contemporary sculptures. There’s also a great cafe.
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Domkyrkan
Home to a spectacular pulpit, the baroque Domkyrkan was designed by Tessin, King Karl X Gustav’s favourite architect. For the low-down, plug into one of the audiophones by the main door.
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Kalmar Sjöfartsmuseum
Aft and slightly to port of the county museum, Kalmar Sjöfartsmuseum houses an eccentric maritime collection, with bottled ships, foghorns and things made out of knots and armadillos.
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Carlos R Pebaqué
Don’t miss the glassworks at Gullaskruv, about 6km northwest of Orrefors. Here, Uruguayan-born artist Carlos R Pebaqué creates extraordinary vases in his one glass oven.
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Kalmar Konstmuseum
The striking Kalmar Konstmuseum, in the park near the castle, dishes out brilliant temporary exhibitions featuring local and global art-scene ‘It’ kids.
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Drottningskärs Kastell
Bristling with cannons, the tower Drottningskärs Kastell on the island of Aspö was described by Admiral Nelson of the British Royal Navy as 'impregnable' - and it looks it.
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Växjö Konsthall
Växjö Konsthall showcases contemporary work by local and national artists; expect anything from minimalist ceramics to mixed-media installations.
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Västerport
Västerport was the original point of entry into the city. Nowadays you can watch glass-blowing and pottery-making at the studios here, and buy the results.
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Pukeberg
Of the two glassworks in Nybro, 130-year-old Pukeberg, just southeast of the centre, is perhaps more interesting for its quaint setting.
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