Shopping in Sweden
-
A
Saluhallen
A mouth-watering market hall, it peddles reasonably priced grub, from fresh fish and piping-hot pasta to Thai, kebabs and croissants.
reviewed
-
B
Åhléns
Looking better than ever after a revamp, this is the main branch of Sweden’s best-known department store. All the standards are here from books, electronics and homewares to cosmetics and fashion, including the store’s own very wearable label. Basement supermarket Hemköp sells ready-made vegetarian foods, while the 4th floor is home to a dreamy day spa.
reviewed
-
C
Chokladfabriken
Cocoa addicts swear by this savvy chocolate peddler, whose head chocolatier Martin Isaksson trained at the Maison du Chocolat in Paris. Bite into the cardamom praline and you’ll be hooked. One line of chocolates features artwork by graphic designer Katy Kimbell, and the regular evening tasting sessions (Skr320, 90 minutes) are coveted affairs (book two to three months ahead). Best of all, you can kick back in the adjoining cafe and succumb to Stockholm’s dreamiest hot chocolate (made with 70% cocoa dark chocolate). There’s also a branch in Norrmalm and another one in Östermalm on Grevgatan 37.
reviewed
-
D
Birger Jarlspassagen
Designed by architect Ludvig Peterson, this fetching fin de siècle arcade contains a number of stylish gems. Mrs H is a fashionista staple, famed for its savvy collection of cosmetics, vintage boots and top-notch denim labels Citizens of Humanity and Sass & Bide. Indulge your lust for exotic and decadent underthings at Agent Provocateur, or feast your greedy eyes upon the knockout gems at a branch of former pop star Efva Attling’s avant-garde jewellery shop.
reviewed
-
E
MTWTFSS Weekday
Finding this once-hidden joint is a lot easier now that it has branches in two high-profile locations, one in Södermalm (on Götgatan) and one on Drottninggatan (at Kungsgatan), right around the corner from this, its original outpost. All the better for urban hipsters on a quest for street-smart, rock-star threads from the likes of Burfitt, Lois, April 77 and Swedish legend Cheap Monday, whose denim first hit the market at this very spot. Look for flyers announcing upcoming raves and indie gigs.
reviewed
-
F
Designtorget
DesignTorget collects the work of design-scene up-and-comers and sells it alongside the work of established denizens. From resin rings to cutting-edge candlesticks, you won’t leave empty-handed. There are other outlets at Kulturhuset, Nybrogatan16, and inside Västermalmsgallerian, Kungsholmen. Götgatan 31 is also home to Press Stop, Stockholm’s best news stand for design and fashion magazines.
reviewed
-
G
Systembolaget
The state-owned alcohol monopoly is the only place to buy real booze to take away. A complete listing is given online; the following are some handy central branches: Klarabergsgatan (21 47 44; Klarabergsgatan 62; 10:00-20:00 Mon-Fri, 10:00-15:00 Sat); Lilla Nygatan (411 65 06; Lilla Nygatan 11; 10:00-18:00 Mon-Wed, to 19:00 Thu & Fri, 10:00-15:00 Sat); Regeringsgatan (796 98 10; Regeringsgatan 44; 10:00-19:00 Mon-Fri, 10:00-15:00 Sat)
reviewed
-
H
Kalikå
This wholesome toy shop sells adorable handmade soft toys, dolls and felt puppets made by the mothers of Russian children with disabilities. The program, entitled ‘Fair Play’, was set up to financially support women and prevent their children from ending up in Russian orphanages. You can also buy toy-making kits, cute kids’ clothes and giant wooden pencils to infantilise your office.
reviewed
-
I
Hallongrottan
Adding weight to Hornstull’s counter-culture rep, this queer-centric bookshop boasts an eclectic mix of gay and feminist titles, queer-friendly kids books, trashy zombie flicks and free hallongrottan (raspberry tartlets). In-store cultural gigs range from screenings of Pink Flamingos to readings by scribes like Sarah Waters and Dennis Cooper – check the website for details.
reviewed
-
J
Sivletto
Live out your Back to the Future fantasy at this super-secret ode to midcentury cool. Hidden away in a basement at the bottom of a claustrophobic staircase, behind an anonymous door, on an out-of-the-way street, this sprawling retro emporium boasts a diner-style cafe, a Jimmy Dean barber and enough 1950s fashion, furnishings and nostalgia to bring out the Fonz or Sandra Dee within.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Prickig Katt Boudoir
This store panders to trendsetting guys, who come seeking non-conformist labels like Denmark’s Humor and Göteborg’s Gissy. Unisex extras include anything from hot-pink mock-rococo mirrors to street-art tomes. Sharing the same address, local label Velour and Stockholm legend Acne Jeans stock slick, stylish streetwear for guys and girls.
reviewed
-
K
Sneakersnstuff
Funk-up your feet with exclusive and limited-edition sneakers from brands like And 1, Tretorn and US vintage brand PF Flyers. Look out for specially commissioned numbers, and match them up with DJ-designed threads from New York’s Staple, Baltimore’s Milkcrate and LA’s Mixwell. DJs play the occasional Saturday set and there’s an in-store cafe to boot.
reviewed
-
L
WESC
This street-smart label got started by dressing up underground artists and musos. In less than a decade, it’s become one of Sweden’s fashion big guns, opening up stores from Seoul to Beverly Hills (actor Jason Lee is a fan). The look is indie-meets-skater cool, with all bases covered, from lusty denim to pimp-a-licious silk hoods for trendy dudes and sistas.
reviewed
-
Jokkmokk Winter Market
The small town of Jokkmokk, also on Inlandsbanan, is just north of the Arctic Circle and started as a Sami market and mission. Since 1605 the Jokkmokk Winter Market has taken place here; the three-day event attracts some 30,000 people and starts on the first Thursday in February. If you're interested in Sami handicrafts this is the place to go.
reviewed
-
M
Blueberry
Health gets haute at this uberhip wholefoods shop, complete with tiny tea bar and trendy buys like soya candles, biodegradable yoga mats and designer paternity bags (as worn by Brad Pitt). With healthy hunks on your mind, grab yourself a fresh Love smoothie (chocolate, cardamom and pear) and prêt-à-manger lunch pack from the health bar out the back.
reviewed
-
N
Nitty Gritty
Head here for international catwalk threads, shoes and accessories from icons like Miu Miu, Prada, Fred Perry and Dupe, as well as Håkansson cosmetics, French champagne, cult DVDs and offbeat toys like President Nixon action dolls. It has an in-store hair salon and a cafe (the Bloody Mary soup is bloody brilliant), and there’s a cheaper outlet next door.
reviewed
-
O
Frank Form
Fetching interior design, fashion and jewellery you’re unlikely to find elsewhere in town, including pieces from the UK, Spain and the Czech Republic. Pick up slinky guys’ sweaters from Basque label Loreak Mendian, a classic handbag from Irish designer Orla Kiely or one-off jewellery from Swedish designer Jezebel, commissioned specially for the store.
reviewed
-
P
Modernity
A bit like a museum where you can take home the booty, world-famous Modernity stocks cult furniture from 20th-century Scandinavian greats like Alvar Aalto, Josef Frank, Arne Jacobsen and Bruno Mathsson, as well as iconic glassware, lighting and jewellery. Best of all, Scottish owner Andrew Duncanson doesn’t mind a natter about his stock – sale or not.
reviewed
-
Nils Olsson Hemslöjd
The best-known Dala horses come from Nusnäs, about 10km southeast of Mora. The two biggest workshops are Nils Olsson Hemslöjd and Grannas A Olsson Hemslöjd, where you can watch the carving and painting, then buy up big at the souvenir outlets. Wooden horse sizes stretch from 3cm high (Skr70) to 50cm high (Skr3338).
reviewed
-
Grannas a Olsson Hemslöjd
The best-known Dala horses come from Nusnäs, about10km southeast of Mora. The two biggest workshops are Nils Olsson Hemslöjd and Grannas A Olsson Hemslöjd, where you can watch the carving and painting, then buy up big at the souvenir outlets. Wooden horse sizes stretch from 3cm high (Skr70) to 50cm high (Skr3338).
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Q
PUB
Until recently, historic department store PUB was best known as the former workplace of Greta Garbo. A major revamp has since turned it into Stockholm’s hottest new fashion and lifestyle hub. Bag yourself fresh Nordic labels like Stray Boys, House of Dagmar and Baum & Pferdgarten, refuel at the slinky cafe-bar or check out the edgy art space.
reviewed
-
R
Beyond Retro
The largest Stockholm location of this UK-based chain houses what seems like acres of retro threads. Quality varies a lot, so the best approach is to resign yourself to digging in and enjoying whatever surprises you find. Hats, party dresses and western shirts are your best bets. There’s also a branch in Södermalm (Åsögatan 144).
reviewed
-
S
Gunnarssons Träfigurer
In his Gepetto-style workshop, sci-fi fan and woodcarver Urban Gunnarsson cleverly carves statuettes (Skr950) of the famous and infamous. His sister Gisela paints each piece, which includes every US president since FD Roosevelt. Custom-made creations (fancy yourself in limewood?) take between two and four weeks and cost a significantly higher Skr4000.
reviewed
-
T
Grandpa
With a design inspired by the hotels of the French Riviera during the ’70s, Grandpa’s second Stockholm location is crammed with atmosphere, as well as artfully chosen vintage and faux-vintage clothing, cool and quirky accessories and whatnots, random hairdryers, suitcases and old radios, plus a cool little cafe serving good espresso.
reviewed
-
U
Pet Sounds Records
No cute puppies here, just kick-ass music. Please your ears with everything from indie and alt-rock to pop, techno, rock and kitsch Latin pop. Pick up cult art books, concert tickets and flyers, or simply pick the staff’s brains over espresso at the tiny in-house bar. For late-night tunes, hit sister venue Pet Sounds Bar across the street.
reviewed