Things to do in Swaziland
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House on Fire
People visit this especially for the ever mutating cultural-site-cum-living-gallery and experimental-performance space. This mosaic- and sculpture-filled site is the hot place for cool locals and is popular among travellers as well. Part of the Malandela’s complex, the well-known venue hosts everything from African theatre, music and films, raves and other forms of entertainment. Since 2007, it has hosted the annual Bush Fire Festival. Held annually for three days over the last weekend of May, it features music, poetry, theatre and among other performances.
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Edladleni
This self-proclaimed ‘Queen of Swazi food fit for a King’ almost lives up to its name; it’s got the best vegetarian options around. It’s about 6km from Mbabane, off the main highway. Opening hours are unreliable, however.
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Malolotja Nature Reserve
This beautiful middleveld and highveld nature reserve is a true wilderness area that’s rugged and in the most part unspoiled. Recently it’s been declared a Transfrontier Park with Songimvelo in neighbouring South Africa. Malolotja is an excellent walking destination, with around 200km of hiking trails, and an ornithologist’s paradise, with over 280 species of birds, including several rare species. Wildflowers and rare plants are added attractions, with several (including the Woolly, Barberton and Kaapschehoop cycads) found only in this region of Africa.
Various antelope species make Malolotja their home, as do herds of zebras, elands and wildebeest. The terrain…
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Mkhaya Game Reserve
This top-notch and stunning private reserve was established in 1979 to save the pure Nguni breed of cattle from extinction. It’s known, however, for its black and white rhino population (it boasts that you’re more likely to meet rhinos here than anywhere else in Africa and, judging from our experience, this is true). Its other animals include roan and sable antelopes, tsessebe and elephants. It’s near the hamlet of Phuzumoya, off the Manzini–Big Bend road. The reserve takes its name from the mkhaya (knobthorn) tree, which abounds here.
You can’t visit the reserve without booking in advance, and even then you can’t drive in alone; you’ll be met at Phuzumoya at a…
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Sibebe Rock
Taking care of errands is the main activity in Mbabane for most travellers but about 8km northeast of Mbabane is Sibebe Rock, a massive granite dome hulking over the surrounding countryside; the area is managed by the local community. Much of the rock is completely sheer, and dangerous if you should fall, but it’s a good adrenalin charge if you’re reasonably fit and relish looking down steep rock-faces. Swazi Trails, in Ezulwini Valley, takes half-day nontechnical climbs up the rock (E585 per person, including transport).
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All Out Africa
Runs a range of adventure trips and activities throughout Swaziland, plus to Kruger and Mozambique. Highly recommended is the half-day cultural tour through Lobamba, including an unscripted ‘what-you-see-is-what-you-get’ wander through the local village (per person R250; no minimum numbers).
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Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary
This beautiful and tranquil private reserve near Lobamba was Swaziland’s first protected area, created by conservationist Ted Reilly on his family farm in the 1950s. Reilly later opened Mkhaya Game Reserve and supervised the establishment of Hlane Royal National Park. Mlilwane means ‘Little Fire’, and the wildlife sanctuary was named after the many fires started by lightning strikes in the region.
While it doesn’t have the drama or vastness of some of the bigger South African parks, the reserve is easily accessible and well worth a visit. Its terrain is dominated by the precipitous Nyonyane (Little Bird) peak, with several fine walks in the area. Animals to be seen…
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Likhweti Kraft
In addition to the scenery, the Piggs Peak area is known for its handicrafts. A good place to check these out is at the Peak Craft Centre just north of Orion Piggs Peak Hotel & Casino, where you’ll find Likhweti Kraft, a branch of Tintsaba Crafts, which sells sisal baskets, jewellery and many other Swazi crafts. There are also numerous craft vendors along the road up from Mbabane.
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Swazi Candles Craft Centre
This craft centre, 7km south of the MR103 turn-off for Malkerns, houses several interesting sites. At Swazi Candles itself, you can wax lyrical about these creative pigment-coloured candles – in every African-animal shape and hue; it’s fun to watch the workers hand-mould the designs. Umgololo Gallery sells art and craft on the same premises.
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South Africa & Swazi Quest
17 days (Johannesburg to Cape Town)
by G Adventures
The unvarnished grandeur of South Africa is on display in this comprehensive exploration of one of the continent’s most diverse and fascinating destinations.…Not LP reviewed
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Mlawula Nature Reserve
This tranquil reserve, where the lowveld plains meet the Lebombo Mountains, boasts antelope species and hyenas, among others, plus rewarding birdwatching. You can bring your own mountain bike. Walking (from two- to nine-hour treks) along plateaus, or to caves and a waterfall is a highlight here.
For accommodation, there’s Sara Camp, with self-catering double safari-style tents. While the tents are looking a little long in the tooth, the location and the fun washing experience under paraffin-heated outdoor showers, perched over a rock ledge, are awesome. There is a basic shared kitchen under a lapa (circular building with low walls and a thatched roof, used for cooking,…
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Kruger & Swazi Overland
9 days (Johannesburg to Durban)
by G Adventures
In Africa, the cultural exchange rate is always favourable. This eye-opening journey into South Africa and Swaziland promises ample face time with the region’s…Not LP reviewed
from USD$1,099 -
Hlane Royal National Park
This park is near the former royal hunting grounds. Hlane (the name means ‘wilderness’) is Swaziland’s largest protected area, and home to elephants, lions, cheetahs, leopards, white rhinos and many antelope species, and offers wonderfully low-key wildlife-watching.
There are guided walking trails, which afford the opportunity to see elephants and rhinos, as well as two-hour wildlife drives at sunrise, sunset and during the day, a cultural village tour and mountain-bike rentals.
Hlane has two good camps. Both can be booked through Big Game Parks over at Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary.
Ndlovu Camp is pleasant and rustic, with no electricity, a gas-cooking area and a…
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Mbuluzi Game Reserve
The small and privately owned Mbuluzi Game Reserve boasts a range of animals, including giraffes, zebras, hippos, antelope species and wildebeests. There have also been over 300 bird species recorded here. Several walking trails dot the reserve and make for a fun activity.
Accommodation here, in a choice of lovely five- or eight-person self-catering lodges, is more luxurious than at neighbouring Mlawula Nature Reserve. Some lodges have spacious verandahs and wooden viewing decks and are set on the Mlawula River.
Campsites are also available near the Mbuluzi River on the reserve’s northern side. The turn-off for Mbuluzi is the same as for Mlawula; the reserve entrance is…
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Finesse
This French-owned place offers a smart and elegant setting under a covered terrace, and serves a good range of seafood and meat dishes. Specialities include duck à l ’ orange, and for dessert, rich chocolate cake (the owner’s mother’s recipe).
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Malandela’s Restaurant
Part of the Malandela complex, this is one of the best restaurants in the region, with good old-fashioned meals including an array of meat and seafood dishes. The lunchtime wraps are very popular. There’s pleasant outdoor seating; indoors there’s a fire for when it’s chilly. A bar serves pub grub as well.
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Indingilizi Gallery & Restaurant
This gallery has an idiosyncratic collection that’s pricey but well worth a look. There is traditional craft, including some interesting old pieces, and excellent art and craftwork by contemporary Swazi artists.
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Gone Rural
The place to go for good quality produce – baskets, mats and traditional clay pots – made by groups of local women. It’s based at Malandela’s B&B.
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La Casserole Restaurant
It has a French name, but this long-standing friendly place serves German and international cuisine, including pizzas. It also offers a few vegetarian dishes, plus a good wine selection.
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Plaza Tandoori Restaurant
It’s not the size of the Taj Mahal, but it’s certainly got the atmosphere. As well as great-value curries, the usual grills and burgers add a touch of the international.
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Baobab Batik
This is the place to head if you’re dye-ing for a wall hanging. You can also pop into their onsite workshop west of Malandela’s. It’s well signed.
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Jazz Friends
In Mbabane, try Jazz Friends, a cool, popular local hang-out with African music.
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Kruger & Coast
9 days (Johannesburg)
by Intrepid
Feast on fresh Mozambican seafood, Visit the heartlands of the African Zulu, Discover plenty of exciting things to do in Durban, Encounter endangered rhinos in…Not LP reviewed
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Kruger, Coast & Cape
21 days (Johannesburg)
by Intrepid
Encounter gentle giants in the Addo Elephant Park, Camp out in Africa's wilderness in the Zululand district, Delve into the astounding Cango Caves outside…Not LP reviewed
from USD$3,280 -
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African Fantasy
African Fantasy offers a selection of locally made T-shirts and cards; it also has a branch at Mantenga Craft Centre and the Gables Shopping Centre. The Gables, too, houses the Buhle Bakho Make Handicraft Centre.
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