Things to do in West Coast
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Circle Sri Lanka
15 days (ex Negombo)
by Intrepid
Bliss out beachside in Mirissa, Learn the secrets of Sri Lankan cuisine in Bandarawela, Shop up a storm in Colombo, Walk the ramparts of Galle, Witness elephant…Not LP reviewed
from USD$1,625 -
from USD$1,920
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A
Bijou
You’ll know this place is Swiss-owned when you see fondue (advance order, Rs 2000) and other Swiss and German specialities on the menu. It mixes up such heavy dishes with a wide range of seafood.
reviewed
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B
Lords
By far Negombo’s most creative eating experience. Martin, the British owner of this half restaurant, half art gallery, brings a larger-than-life presence to the place and is a rare thing among expat restaurant owners in that he actually works on the floor and in the kitchen making sure that everything is just spot on. The food, which is so superbly prepared and presented that the thought of a free meal was enough to get the president himself to come and open the restaurant, is a hybrid of Western and Eastern flavours. The gallery displays excellent contempory work by local artists.
reviewed
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Coral Sanctuary
Hikkaduwa’s overexploited ‘coral sanctuary’ stretches out from the string of ‘Coral’ hotels at the north end of the strip to a group of rocks a couple of hundred metres offshore. You can swim out to the rocks from the Coral Gardens Hotel, where the reef runs straight out from the shore. The water over the reef is never more than 3m or 4m deep. Once upon a time this was a magnificent garden of fishy colours and flowering corals, but today the reef is sadly a shadow of its former self with much of the coral dying and the fish flipping away to more pristine spots. One of the big reasons for this demise has been coral bleaching, caused by oceanic and atmospheric conditions (q…
reviewed
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Brief Garden
Ten kilometres inland from Bentota is the Brief Garden. A barely controlled riot of a Jungle Book garden, the grounds are a lovely place to get lost, while the house, which used to be the home of Bevis Bawa, brother of renowned architect Geoffrey Bawa, has an eclectic range of artwork on display – from homoerotic sculpture to a wonderful mural of Sri Lankan life in the style of Marc Chagall. The mural was created by Australian artist Donald Friend, who originally came for six days but stayed six years – definitely not the sort of house guest you want! Other, more short-term, guests included Vivien Leigh and Laurence Olivier, who stayed here during the filming of Elephant …
reviewed
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Sailatalarama Vihara
Sailatalarama Vihara lies 7km inland from Ambalangoda. This temple sits on a domed hill with broad views over spice plantations and lakes towards the ranges of the Province of Sabaragamuwa. The temple has a 35m-long sleeping Buddha statue, built by donations. Pilgrims approach the dagobas and devale (a complex designed for worshipping a Hindu or local Sri Lankan deity) via 208 steps, but there’s also a road to the top. The statue is new and not the most outstanding example of its type and the compulsory ‘donation’ for foreigners (Rs 250) is a bit steep, but it’s worth coming here for the rural scenery and the views. Also check out the photo on the wall of a German-based m…
reviewed
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School of Dance
School of Dance teaches the southern forms of dance such as kolam (masked dance-drama), Kandyan and Sabaragamu. It’s located across the intersection from the Ariyapala Mask Museum, with which it’s affiliated. The school is run by Bandu Wijesuriya, a descendant of a long line of famous mask carvers. Anyone can join the classes; there’s a fee of Rs 500 per hour for foreigners who are normally given one-to-one tuition. Wijesuriya also teaches mask carving and painting, as well as traditional drumming and singing. Students can stay in hostel-style rooms for Rs 750 per night. There is talk of a theatre with regular dance shows being opened, but for the moment Rs 10,000 and two…
reviewed
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Moonstone Mines
Have you ever wondered where that pretty little moonstone on your finger actually comes from? Head inland 7km to Mitiyagoda and you can descend (not literally) into the mucky world of mining – 18th-century style! Moonstone has been mined in these sweltering forests forever and the moonstone mines, little more than muddy rabbit holes, 6m or 7m long, are fascinating – as is the process of filtering out the precious stones, cutting them up and polishing them up ready for sale. Entrance is free, but expect a hardcore sales pitch in the on-site shop afterwards. To get there head towards Kahawa and turn inland to Mitiyagoda after which it’s clearly signed.
reviewed
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Seenigama Vihara
About 2km north of Hikkaduwa is the Seenigama Vihara, perched on its own island. It’s one of only two temples in the country where victims of theft can seek retribution. People who have been robbed visit the temple and buy a specially prepared oil made with chilli and pepper. With the oil they light a lamp in their homes and recite a mantra. Sooner or later, maybe within weeks, the thief will be identified when they’re struck down with misfortune, such as having a bicycle accident or being hit on the head by a falling coconut.
reviewed
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Wilpattu National Park
Due to security issues Wilpattu National Park was closed at the time of research, but there is every chance that it might well re-open sometime in the future. If so you’ll find dense pockets of jungle scrub interspersed with small clearings, and tanks that shrink in the dry season and swell in the monsoon. The park is home to up to 50 elephants and 50 or more leopards, as well as spotted deer, sloth bears, wild pigs, crocodiles and more. At 1085 sq km, it is Sri Lanka’s largest national park.
reviewed
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C
Dutch Fort
Close to the seafront near the lagoon are the ruins of the old Dutch fort, which has a fine gateway inscribed with the date 1678. Also here is a green, called the Esplanade, where cricket matches are a big attraction. As the fort grounds are now occupied by the town’s prison, the only way you’ll get a peek inside is by stealing something; though you’d need to be very interested in old Dutch forts to go this far.
reviewed
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Fish Market
This fish market is across the lagoon bridge. If you can stagger out of bed at 6am, it’s a good place to watch the fishing boats return with their catches. If you’re hanging around the markets, you won’t have to wait long before you’re invited to go out on an oruvaor a kind of vessel; expect to pay around Rs 1000 per boat per hour. A Fishers’ Festivalis held here in late July.
reviewed
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Amal Restaurant
Very close to the beach, this restaurant sits on the opposite side of the road to the hotel of the same name (opposite) and serves fair seafood, steak, pastas and some token curries. There are lovely sea views and, should you wish to up the romantic ante, they can arrange candle-lit beach dinners under the stars. The set meals involve some truly bizarre food combinations.
reviewed
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Kechimalai Mosque
The first recorded Muslim settlement on the island took place at Beruwela in 1024. The Kechimalai Mosque, on a headland north of the hotel strip, is said to be built on the site of the landing and is the focus for a major Eid-ul-Fitr festival at the end of Ramadan. It’s part of a fascinating collection of mosques, churches and temples out by the fishing port and beach.
reviewed
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Madu Ganga
Between Ambalangoda and Iduruwa the muddy Madu Ganga dances around the coastline forming a complicated network of lagoons and off-shoots. It’s fantastic birding territory and in praise of this it’s been made into a Ramsar site. Boat tours (Rs 2500 per boat, 1½ hours) are run by Maduwa River Boats from Balapitiya, a few kilometres north of Ambalangoda.
reviewed
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D
Cool Spot
This family-run place has been serving up fresh seafood from a sky-blue vintage roadside house at the north end of the strip since 1972. There’s a cool veranda where you can peruse the blackboard menu and delight in specialities, such as garlic prawns and the bulging seafood platter. It’s someway north of the main independent tourist strip.
reviewed
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E
Ammehula
The young owners of this cafe claim that the name means ‘Go Away!’ and the menu features a cartoon turtle cussing about how all the good fish come here. Besides seafood dishes there are sandwiches, salads and a long breakfast menu that includes Dutch pancakes. There’s a small library of books for swapping.
reviewed
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Poseidon Diving Station
The diving season runs from November to April. Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) courses (open water from €165, advanced for €185), plus a selection of dives such as wreck dives, night dives and trips for those who just want to try out diving, are available from Poseidon Diving Station.
reviewed
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Kosgoda Turtle Centre
Located behind a group of new homes built by a German woman for tsunami victims, this very basic place is hands-on and has some charming staff. There’s an old albino turtle that has survived both man (nets) and nature (tsunami). Look for a sign on the west side of Galle Rd, 500m south of the 73km marker.
reviewed
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Alta Italia
For a casual beach resort this is a surprisingly formal Italian-run place with a long menu that includes fresh pasta, seafood grills and thin-based pizzas. Try the authentic risotto and finish with a limoncello or grappa. Or sample from the espresso machine, steaming behind the counter.
reviewed
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Chill Space Café
This almost comically surf, fashion-obsessed beachside cafe, which is situated in front of the A Frame Surf Shop, features reasonable shakes, snacks, seafood and more, but basically you’re paying for the atmosphere more than anything else. There are free beach chairs and occasional live music at night.
reviewed
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I
Rodeo Pub
Blathering, homesick expats, and tourists who wish they’d never left, drown their sorrows at this wannabe European bar where graffiti’s scrawled across the walls and bacon butties, pints of larger and cocktails with sexy names prop up the clientele. It’s perfect, if you’d rather be in Benidorm.
reviewed
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Sun River Paradise Watersports
Sun River Paradise Watersports is a local operator that is right on the riverfront. Besides renting out a wide range of equipment, it also runs courses, which includes windsurfing (Rs 10,000), waterskiing (Rs 2500) and surf/bodyboard hire (Rs 700/200 per hour).
reviewed
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Sunshine Water Sports Center
Sunshine Water Sports Centeris a local operator that is right on the riverfront. Besides renting out a wide range of equipment, it also runs courses, which includes windsurfing (Rs 10,000), waterskiing (Rs 2500) and surf/bodyboard hire (Rs 700/200 per hour).
reviewed
