Things to do in The South
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Yala National Park
With trumpeting elephants, monkeys crashing through the trees, peacocks in their finest frocks and cunning leopards sliding like shadows through the undergrowth, Yala National Park (also known as Ruhunu) is The Jungle Book brought to glorious life. This vast region of dry woodland and open patches of grasslands is the big draw of this corner of Sri Lanka, and though it’s far from Kenya, a safari here is well worth all the time, effort and cost.
The entrance fees are payable at the main office, which is near the entrance, some 21km from Tissa. There are a few displays here of the pickled and stuffed variety. The road from Tissa is rough but passable, although a 4WD is ne…
reviewed
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Rampart Hotel
This ancient place has an ornately carved wooden staircase that would make redevelopers drool. But you won't drool over the long menu of dull Chinese, local and Western fare served in the cavernous dining room on the 2nd floor. Rather, come here for a drink and the amazing sunset views.
reviewed
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Thowfeek
Exceptionally cheap prices on name-brand clothes. The store is above a vendor selling cheap kitchenware.
reviewed
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Ibrahim Jewelry
A recommended jeweller that is several cuts above (ahem) the omnipresent gemstone vendors.
reviewed
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Suthuvili Gallery
This small shop has simple displays of elaborate and beautiful polychromatic masks.
reviewed
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The Fort Walls
One of the most pleasant strolls you can take in town is the circuit of the Fort walls at dusk. As the daytime heat fades away, you can walk almost the complete circuit of the Fort along the top of the wall in an easy hour or two. You’ll be in the company of lots of locals, shyly courting couples and plenty of kids diving into the protected waters.
The Main Gate in the northern stretch of the wall is a comparatively recent addition – it was built by the British in 1873 to handle the heavier flow of traffic into the old town. This part of the wall, the most heavily fortified because it faced the land, was originally built with a moat by the Portuguese, and was then subst…
reviewed
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Bundala National Park
Bundala National Park is a fantastic maze of waterways, lagoons and dunes that glitter like gold in the dying evening sun. This wonderland provides a home to thousands of colourful birds ranging from diminutive little bee-eaters to grotesque open-billed stalks. It is a wetland sanctuary of such importance that it has been recognised under the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands. It shelters some 150 species of birds within its 62-sq-km area, with many journeying from Siberia and the Rann of Kutch in India to winter here, arriving between August and April. It’s also a winter home to the greater flamingo, and up to 2000 have been recorded here at one time. If you’re a birder, you…
reviewed
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Mangrove Sanctuary
A different kind of walk (Rs 250) can be found at the Mangrove Sanctuary; a disorganised work in progress, it one day might be a highly commendable local conservation effort protecting a swampy slab of snail, crab, bird and even monkey-filled mangrove forest a few minutes inland. Even though there is little infrastructure at the moment, it’s well worth taking time out from the beach to pace the raised walkways through the tangled roots and trees. To get there look for the yellowing signs along the Galle–Matara road and then ask and ask.
reviewed
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Shoba Display Gallery
Beautiful lacework made right here in the shop – many of the finished products are used in the costumes of big-budget period dramas. The shop is the base for innovative charity Power of Hands Foundation (www.powerofhandsfoundation.com), which teaches local women dying crafts and ensures them a fair price for their work. Even if you’re not buying, pop in to witness the process of making lace – amazing! If you’re interested in a more hands-on approach, then (with advance notice) they’ll teach you how to weave your own lacy wonder.
reviewed
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Star Fort
The Star Fort, about 350m from the main Dutch rampart gate, was built by the Dutch to compensate for deficiencies in the rampart. However, it’s so small it could only have protected a handful of bureaucrats. The date of construction (1765) is embossed over the main gate, along with the VOC (Verenigde Oostindische Compagnie) company insignia and the coat of arms of the governor of the day. Look for the two carved lions that guard the entrance gates. You can also spot the slots that once secured the drawbridge beams.
reviewed
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Dutch Reformed Church
The Dutch Reformed Church, near the Amangalla Hotel, was originally built in 1640, but the present building dates from 1752 to 1755. Its floor is paved with gravestones from the old Dutch cemetery (the oldest dates from 1662); the friendly caretaker will tell you where remains are held in the walls and under the floor. The organ from 1760 still sits in the building and the impressive pulpit, made from calamander wood from Malaysia, is an interesting piece. Services are held each Sunday.
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Historical Mansion
If you think you’ve got a lot of clutter filling up the shelves at home, then just wait until you get a load of the Historical Mansion, which is the private collection of one serious hoarding squirrel. Set in a well-restored Dutch house, it’s not really a museum, as many of the exhibits have price tags. It’s a junkyard of colonial artefacts, including collections of antique typewriters, VOC (Verenigde Oostindische Compagnie) china, spectacles and jewellery. There’s also a gem shop.
reviewed
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Dream House
Eat alfresco while being serenaded by classical music at this authentic and truly memorable Italian restaurant. Unusually for an Italian restaurant in Asia, the chef is actually of true-blue Latin stock, which ensures the tomatoes have been placed in just the right spot and the perfect amount of fresh basil has been added. Anywhere else in Unawatuna positively fades in comparison to here, but what’s most surprising is the price – it’s an undisputed bargain.
reviewed
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Serendipity Arts Cafe
This photo-crammed hole-in-the-wall cafe has a fusion menu that includes Western sandwiches and Eastern curries, brilliant juices and shakes, bacon-and-egg hoppers and proper filter coffee. They claim that some of the recipes are generation’s old family secrets – though we’re assured that the ingredients aren’t as old! It’s an ideal place for lunch or breakfast. The cafe is owned and run by Juliet Coombe and her husband.
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Dutch Rampart
The smallish Dutch rampart occupies the promontory separating the Nilwala Ganga from the sea. Built in the 18th century to protect the Verenigde Oostindische Compagnie’s kachcheri (administrative office), its structure is a little peculiar – it was originally meant to be a fort, but accountants, with their pesky cost-cutting exercises, dictated otherwise. Inside the rampart are quiet vestiges of old Matara.
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Tissa Wewa
The centrepiece of the town and its surrounds is the lovely Tissa Wewa, a huge man-made lake about 1.5km from the town centre. In the evening check out the huge flocks of egrets that descend onto the trees around the lake to roost. Pleasant boat trips are possible around the lake (Rs 500 per boat, per hour) from the Independent Jeep Association car park. Fight tooth and nail for a deal.
reviewed
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Maha Devale
This is the most important shrine. It contains the lance of the six-faced, 12-armed Hindu war god, Murugan (Skanda), who is seen as identical to the Kataragama Deviyo. Followers make offerings at daily puja at 4.30am, 10.30am and 6.30pm (no 4.30am offering on Saturday). Outside this shrine are two large boulders, against which pilgrims smash burning coconuts while muttering a prayer.
reviewed
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National Museum
The National Museum is housed in an old Dutch building near the Main Gate. The museum, with just a little more effort, would be superb; however, as it is, it has sad displays of traditional masks, information on the lace-making process, a few examples of the luxury items that once passed through the port, and religious items, including a relic casket.
reviewed
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Galle Fort Hotel
The restaurant at this hotel serves superb, though very pricey, Asian fusion cuisine at tables set along the deep inner veranda. The dinner menu changes nightly. At other times there are baked goods, classic breakfast dishes, salads and sandwiches. The bar, overlooking Church St, feels like a colonial retreat, and is popular with the expat community.
reviewed
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Dagoba
The large white restored dagoba between Tissa town centre and the wewa is believed to have been built by Kavantissa, a king of the kingdom of Ruhunu, which centred on Tissamaharama. The dagoba has a circumference of 165m and stands 55.8m high. It is thought to have held a sacred tooth relic and forehead bone relic. It’s attractively lit up at night.
reviewed
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Museum
This small museum, next to the dagoba, contains an extraordinary range of treasures dug up from around the dagoba, including an ornate, ancient bidet, which – as well as an elaborate filtration system that prevented any water pollution – had murals of ugly faces carved into it in order to stop the user thinking about sex! Its hours vary.
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One Love Restaurant
This small and friendly place literally hangs above the water and the creaky wooden floorboards further enhance the sensation of being on a boat sailing across the seven seas. It’s unusual in that its good range of curries allows you to eat like a local (a rarity in Unawatuna). Pumpkin curry is the house special.
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South Ceylon Industrial Agency & Handicraft Factories
This place employs traditional craftspeople from villages that specialise in the various handicrafts. You can watch jewellery, leatherwork, batik, lace and machine embroidery being created. And yes, gemstones are polished. Prices are negotiable. A three-wheeler from the station costs about Rs100.
reviewed
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Sonjas Health Food Restaurant
Sonjas Health Food Restaurant runs highly recommended day-long cookery courses (Rs 3000) that tutor you in the finer points of Sri Lankan cuisine. The course is led by the lovely Karuna and a trip to Galle market is included in the price. Try to book at least a day in advance.
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