Sights in The East
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Old Batti
Wandering around Old Batti is particularly atmospheric late at night: cicadas call and water drips, but not a soul stirs on the eerily empty streets. Dim street lamps give lugubrious form to shadows around the various colonial edifices like the pompous sky-blue St Joseph’s Convent (St Mary’s St), St Michael’s College (Central Rd), which is so drenched in vines and creepers that the brickwork is starting to be broken away, and the sturdy 1838 Methodist Church (Post Office Rd). Of the dozens of churches, the most eye-catching is the huge blue, eight-sided, unfinished Our Lady of Sorrows (Trinco Rd), the vaguely Mexican, earth-toned St Anthony’s (St Anthony’s St) and the gra…
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Pigeon Island
Floating in the great blue a short way offshore, Pigeon Island, with its powdery white sands and glittering coral gardens, tantalises with possibilities. However, though it used to be a very popular day-trip destination, today – thanks to a navy ban on boat trips, diving and snorkelling excursions and anything else that could be termed as fun in the sun – it has gone back to being the archetypical desert island. Having said that, for the really determined, it’s possible to reach, but you must first arrange a naval escort through the Nilaveli Beach Hotel. This will cost around Rs 2500 for half a day (give a day’s notice). They’ll normally pick you up in a small zodiac boat…
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Fort Frederick Area
Built by the Portuguese, Fort Frederick was rebuilt by the Dutch. Today, British insignias crown the tunnel-like gateway that pierces the fort’s massively stout walls. Parts of the fortress are under military jurisdiction, and anyone entering will have to undergo a stringent security check. Despite this, a stroll up to the big new standing Buddha statue at the Gokana Temple and on up to Swami Rock, a 130m-high cliff nicknamed Lovers’ Leap, and the revered Koneswaram Kovilis highly worthwhile. This temple houses the rescued lingam (Hindu phallic symbol) known as the Swayambhu Lingam (viewing 7am-11.30pm & 4-6pm), making it one of Sri Lanka’s most spiritually important …
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Dutch Fort
The 6m-thick walls of Batti’s Dutch fort surround the rambling kachcheri (administrative office). The fort itself contains government offices and isn’t very interesting, but the stroll along the eastern fringe between the walls and the water is nice. By the eastern entrance gate you’ll find a couple of old canons guarding the District Secretariat Office, while inside, on the 1st floor of the office opposite the entrance gate, is a stone slab engraved with a 1707 VOC inscription; it was recently removed from the fort walls and now balances precariously on a chair.
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Nilaveli Beach
For years Nilaveli has been considered one of Sri Lanka’s most perfect beaches. It certainly has that feeling of paradise-island remoteness, with plenty of bending palms swaying over the golden sand. Good it may be, but in reality things aren’t quite as heavenly as they seem here. It’s not far from the recent front line and soldiers are everywhere, which kind of spoils the happy holidays’ mood. This is made plainly obvious in the numerous army checkpoints on the road into town and the massive military camp that sits right in the middle of the beach.
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Kalkudah Bay Beach
Kalkudah Bay Beach, just over the headland to the south, is the kind of fantasy beach that makes you want to chuck away your return air ticket and lounge forever under the palms. The easiest approach to this beach is now blocked by an army camp at the end of the Valaichchenai–Kalkudah road. To reach the sand, bypass the camp and use the partly rebuilt beach-access lane 800m further southwest.
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Commonwealth War Cemetery
You can stroll up to the beautifully kept, yet immensely sad, Commonwealth War Cemetery. This is the last resting place for over 600 servicemen who died at Trinco during WWII, most of them during a Japanese raid on 9 April 1942 that sank over a dozen vessels. The simplicity of the lines of graves and their often moving epitaphs bring a tear to the eye. Donations are appreciated.
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Passekudah Beach
Passekudah Beach is the most visited and at weekends you might find two or three carloads of local beachgoers hanging out. At the southern end of the beach, gaudy little fishing boats add splashes of colour to the stunning pale sands. Head north along the beach, past the LTTE-destroyed hotels, and it’ll be just you and the crabs making footprints. Swimming here is normally safe.
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Tiruchendur Murugan Alayam Temple
Built in 1984 as a stopping point on the Pada Yatra pilgrimage to Kataragama, its Murugan image is said to have opened its own eyes before the painter could do the job. The structure was slammed by the tsunami, leaving its small gopuram leaning at an alarming angle. Its colourful leaning tower sits near the beach between Third and Fourth Cross Sts.
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Japanese Peace Pagoda
West of the clock tower and bus station, DS Senanayake Rd leads towards Inginyagala, passing scenic Ampara Tank. After about 2km a short right turn brings you to the graceful Japanese Peace Pagoda. The pagoda itself is large rather than beautiful, and despite still being a spring chicken in pagoda years it’s starting to look a little tatty.
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Dutch Bay
Right in the centre of Trinco is the attractive and picturesque Dutch Bay. Swimming is possible despite sometimes dangerous undertows. However, it’s more a place for strolling, and ice-cream sellers cater to the evening passeggiata.
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Kandasamy Kovil
This temple, dedicated to Murugan, houses the rescued lingam (Hindu phallic symbol) known as the Swayambhu Lingam (viewing 7am-11.30pm & 4-6pm), making it one of Sri Lanka’s most spiritually important Hindu sites.
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St Mary’s Cathedral
The grand, turquoise St Mary’s Cathedral is one of the most eye-catching churches. St Mary’s was rebuilt in 1994 following its partial destruction during fighting between local Tamils and Muslims.
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Mudu Maha Vihara
This lovely little site, partly submerged in the encroaching sand dunes, features a fine 3m-high standing Buddha statue whose eroded face stares jealously at two petite Bodhisattva figures.
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Anipandi Sitivigniswara Alayar
Of the many Hindu temples, Anipandi Sitivigniswara Alayar is visually the finest, with a magnificent gopuram that’s decorated with a riotous festival of intertwined god figures.
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Salli Muthumariamunam Kovil
Beachfront Salli Muthumariamunam Kovil is 4km by road from Uppuveli but only a short hop by boat; it’s directly across Fishermen’s Creek, masked from view by green-topped rocks.
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Mandala Mahavihara
The central Buddhist Mandala Mahavihara has a large pagoda. Its interior is somewhat tackily painted with Buddhist scenes and a cloud-dotted ‘sky’.
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St Mary’s Cathedral
Of the churches the 1852 Catholic St Mary’s Cathedral is particularly attractive, with a sky-blue neobaroque frontage and a tiled, towered rear.
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Manayaweli Cove
Manayaweli Cove is an appealing curl of fishing beach reached by strolling past Dhoby Tank, where local washers do their laundry.
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Ganesh Temple
This is a colourful little Hindu temple, where the priest will probably be as happy to see you as he would Lord Ganesh himself.
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Our Lady of Sorrows
Of the dozens of churches, the most eye-catching is the huge blue, eight-sided, unfinished Our Lady of Sorrows.
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Fish Market
Fishy interest is provided at the raucous daily fish market near the bus station. Early mornings are busiest.
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Kali Kovil
Kali Kovil has the most impressive, eye-catching gopuram of Trinco’s many Hindu temples.
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St Sebastian’s Church
Beside Kallady Bridge is the fairly modern St Sebastian’s Church, built in the shape of a whale.
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Sri Manika Pillaiyar
The Sri Manika Pillaiyar gives Ganesh a lovely view across Ampara Tank; it’s at the 24km post.
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