Things to do in Valencia & Murcia
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Gran Casino Murcia
Murcia's resplendent casino first opened as a gentlemen's club in 1847. Beyond the decorative facade, completed in 1901, are an Arab-style vestibule and a patio. Penetrate as far as the magnificent ballroom and pop €1.00 in the slot for the 320 lamps of its candelabra to shimmer with light as Strauss's Radetsky March wafts from all corners.
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Museo de Chocolate
Even if your name’s not Charlie and though you may be over 12 years old, you’ll enjoy a tour of the Museo de Chocolate in Villajoyosa, 14km south of Benidorm. This showcase of Valor, Spain’s largest chocolate-making company, displays everything related to cocoa, chocolate and the transformation of one to another, has a gallery of sculptures in – yes – chocolate and includes a visit to the factory and shop, where you’ll need all your willpower to resist such sweet temptation. Guided visits on the hour, every hour.
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Catedral de Santa Maria
Murcia's cathedral was built in 1394 on the site of a mosque. The initial Gothic architecture was given a playful baroque facelift in 1748. The 15th-century Capilla de los Vélez is a highlight; the chapel's flutes and curls resemble piped icing. The Museo de la Catedral displays religious artefacts, but is most striking for the excavations on display: the remains of an 11th-century Moorish dwelling and of a small mezquita (mosque), visible below a glass walkway.
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La Conservera Centro de Arte Contemporáneo
Located in the tiny village of Ceutí, La Conservera Centro de Arte Contemporáneo, 24km northwest of Murcia, opened in May 2009 as an artistic centre showcasing well-known international contemporary artists and sculptors whose work shares a common concept. The exhibition centre is housed in a converted cannery stripped of machinery. The result is vast spaces covering 4800 sq m, ideal for these spacious, light-filled galleries.
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Piripi
This highly regarded restaurant is strong on rice, seafood and fish, which arrives fresh and daily from the wholesale markets of Denia and Santa Pola. There's a huge variety of tapas (we counted 10 different cylinders of salami and sausage arraigned on the bar and one of the jovial team of waiters is engaged constantly in cutting near-transparent slices of prime quality ham). There's a valenciano speciality that changes daily.
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Casino
Murcia's resplendent Casino first opened as a gentlemen's club in 1847. Beyond the decorative façade, completed in 1901, are an Arab-style vestibule and a patio. Penetrate as far as the magnificent ballroom and pop around €1 in the slot to see the 320 lamps of its candelabra shimmer with light as Strauss' Radetsky March wafts from all corners. Closed for improvements when we last visited, it should again be open.
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One One
It's easier if you speak a little Spanish at this wonderfully eccentric place (pronounced 'on-eh, on-eh') with its faithful following of regulars but a touch of bravado will get you by (just ask your ebullient host about his travels to Peru). It's a true bistro, the walls scarcely visible for photos and posters, and there's no menu. Just listen carefully as Bartólome intones…
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Terra Mítica
Terra Mítica is the Costa Blanca's answer to Disneyland or Port Aventura in Catalonia. A big fun day out, especially if you're with children, it's Mediterranean in theme, with plenty of rides and areas devoted to ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Iberia and the islands. Are you game to ride the vertiginous Tizona rollercoaster?...
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Palacio Ducal de los Borja
This magnificent palace was the 15th-century home of Duque Francisco de Borja. Highlights include its finely carved artesonado ceilings and rich ceramic work - look out for the vivid mapa universal floor composition. One-hour guided tours in Spanish, with an accompanying leaflet in English, take place every half hour.
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Museo Salzillo
Located in the baroque chapel of Ermita de Jesús and devoted to Murcian sculptor Francisco Salzillo (1707–83). The highlights are his exquisite pasos (figures carried in Semana Santa processions) and carved-wood nativity figurines. To get here head west from Gran Via del Escultor Francsico Salzillo along Calle Santa Teresa.
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Figón de Alfaro
Popular with all ages and budgets, Figón de Alfaro offers a chaotic bar area or a more sedate interconnecting dining room. Choose from full meals, a range of juicy montaditos (minirolls) or innovative one-offs such as pastel de berejena con salsa de calabacín (aubergine pie with a courgette sauce).
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Museo de la Ciudad
Housed in the villa of a prominent Murcia family of the 16th century, the City Museum diligently records the history of the city and region, with a particular emphasis on the region's art, crafts and ethnography. To the rear of the building is an orchard dating back to Muslim times, watered by the Caravija aqueduct.
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Museo de Arte Contémporaneo de Alicante (MACA)
Closed for many years while its premises, the splendid 17th-century Casa de la Asegurada, was renovated and enlarged, this splendid museum was about to reopen at the time of writing. It has an excellent collection of 20th-century Spanish art, including works by Dalí, Miró, Chillida, Sempere, Tàpies and Picasso.
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Museo de Valltorta
Museo de Valltorta is a well-illustrated museum, 10km southwest of Sant Mateu in Tirig. It presents the Maestrazgo’s rich heritage of rock paintings, recognised as a Unesco World Heritage treasure. From here guided walks to the clifftop overhangs and much-faded paintings leave four times daily.
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Museo de Bellas Artes
An inviting, light gallery devoted to Spanish artists. The 2nd-floor Siglo de Oro gallery includes canvases by Murillo, Zurbarán and by ‘Lo Spagnoletto’, José (Jusepe) de Ribera. For a break from all that religious piety, don’t miss the superbly kitsch dazzle of glamorous señoritas on the 3rd floor.
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Las Cadenas
Has an elegant dress-for-dinner feel and traditional menu. Reservations recommended.
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Saltapins
Saltapins is an adventure centre up in the woods across a small river. There are two gentle circuits for children (€10 to €14) and an altogether more challenging one (€18) with creepers to swing from, suspended gangplanks to teeter over and barrels to wriggle through.
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Gruta de San José
Gruta de San José is a winding tunnel, scoured naturally through the karst. On the outskirts of La Vall d'Uixó, 35km southwest of Castellón, it bores into the hillside for 2.75km. Boats glide through the first subtly lit 800m, followed by a walk through limestone grottos.
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El Trellat
Beside the covered market, this small, friendly place does exceptionally creative, flexible menús: first course a serve-yourself buffet, then an ample choice of inventive mains. For dessert, trust Manuel, the chef/owner; he previously worked in Alicante's premier cake shop.
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La Bohemia
At La Bohemia, both cafe and cocktail bar, you’ll be made welcome from breakfast until late. Penetrate to the chillout zone at the rear, where candles flicker in niches hacked into the rough-textured natural rock. There’s live music each Friday and Saturday.
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Cantina Villahelmy
One wall's rough stone, another bright orange and navy blue, painted with skeletons, creepy-crawlies and a frieze of classical figures. Intimate, funky and popular, the Villahelmy has lots of snacks, excellent salads and a menu that features dishes from couscous to octopus.
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Museo de Santa Clara
Museo de Santa Clara is a recently restored Muslim palace. It has an exquisite courtyard and an important collection of Islamic art within a closed-order convent with its own rich treasures, assembled over the centuries. Phone to reserve a 45-minute guided tour in English.
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La Gran Taberna
The walls here host an attractive clutter of old menus, posters, programs and framed lacework. Work your way through the magnificent menú tradicional (traditional set menu; €34), chalked up on the blackboard and constant for more than a decade.
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City Hall
Rafael Moneo's extension to Murcia city's 19th-century city hall has been the subject of hot debate. Looking something like an empty book-case, it either lets a much-needed breath of air into the heavily elaborate square or defaces it: you be the judge.
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Museo de Bellas Artes Gravina (MUBAG)
Alicante's fine-arts museum, with canvases from the Middle Ages to the 1920s, is within the Palacio de Gravina, a stalwart 18th-century mansion. The setting and presentation are terrific – perhaps more so than the paintings themselves.
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